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Flyinfool

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  1. Flyinfool
    Just Google "road dust reduction" there is bunches of info and products out there.
  2. Flyinfool
    I finally got enough stuff done on the bike to take it out for the first of many required doses of the treatment for PMS. There is no cure. Not a monster ride but a good shakedown of about 80 miles with a lot of it around town. About a third of it was on local streets and the rest on local highways. The wind was brutal, I have never ridden in that much wind and at one point going over a high bridge, with a 40mph cross wind, over the harbor, I had to slow down to about 40mph just to stay on the bike. There were a couple of times that a gust hit me hard enough that I had to make an effort to not get blown off the side of the bike. The bike itself seemed to handle the cross wind just fine, it was me that didn't. Of course the bike ran crappy since the tank is/was full of gas bought in October of last year, and of course it was crap reformulated gas to boot. It was well dosed with SeaFoam before it went to sleep for the winter. In a couple of more days of commuting to work, I should have the tank empty and be able to give her a nice drink of fresh gas. It is going to take a lot more work to get my left arm back into riding shape after the injuries from last month. I still can not hold in the clutch for a whole red light but a month ago I could not pull in the clutch at all. And yes being the stubborn one that I am, I have been avoiding seeing a Dr about it. I am hoping that in another week I can start pulling the trailer around some to get used to it being back there before I make the epic (for me) trek to Ohio in June. I have started to pay attention to my location in the lane and pretending that I am pulling the trailer. But the bottom line is that my PMS is doing a lot better now.
  3. Flyinfool
    This is why a one tank test is not a good baseline. If you do the test over say 10 tanks of fuel (even 2 or 3 is a lot better than 1) then the differences in the fill level will be accounted for. I have noticed a difference in mileage even between brands of gas.
  4. Flyinfool
    I have a 1st gen so there is no "standard" driving light. I do not know what type of bulb the driving lights on a 2nd gen use. I will be using the KC HiLites 35 series driving lights, (I should get them tonight). I have these same lights on my truck and really like them. The beam pattern is somewhere in-between a driving light and a fog light. Part of the lens is focused for distance like a driving light, and part to light up the shoulder to spot critters like a fog light. These come with 55W halogen bulbs but I will replace the halogens with the new 35W HID. The HID that I got does have 2 ballasts. I got the H3 bulbs in the 6000K color. My headlight is The Bi-Xenon H4 bulb 6000K color.
  5. Flyinfool
    +1 on HID Country. The H3 set that I picked up for my driving lights is also from HID Country for $37 for the 2 light SET.
  6. Flyinfool
    Running a higher rpm is not necessarily more stress. To low of an rpm beats the bejesus out of the connecting rod bearings.
  7. Flyinfool
    An HID bulb also has no filament to break and short out. I am putting HIDs into my driving lights next.
  8. Flyinfool
    I got #1 on the list done last night. The center contact for the switch has a bunch of crud/corrosion on it. I used a soft brass wire wheel in my Dremel to clean it up, regreased it, and it works great now. While I was in there I also cleaned and regreased all of the contacts in all of the switches. I also noticed that there was room to install a switch to turn the headlight off. The best thing is that the wire that needs to be switched is right there. Just have to take the blue wire off the HI/LO switch and connect it to the new switch, and add a 1 inch jumper from the new switch back to the HI/LO switch. That will allow me to keep the HID off till the engine is started.
  9. Flyinfool
    DOH! I get stuff from McMaster all the time but never thought of that one. Thanks.
  10. Flyinfool
    An auto salvage yard was my very first thought also. Should be lots to choose from.
  11. Flyinfool
    OK a couple of more ideas here. Fuel level gauges almost always have some form of damping on them so that the display is not jumping around with every wave caused by motion of the bike. This damping can be either mechanical on the sender itself or electrical most likely at the meter. If the damping is mechanical at the sender, and caused by a buildup of dried fuel or other crud on the moving parts Then keeping the tank near full with some Seafoam in the gas may help to clean it up. If the damping is electrical in nature, it will be a lot harder to locate since it is most likely a bad or weak component on a circuit board, The electrical possibility is a lot less likely to "fix" itself, where some crud could wear off and go away.
  12. Flyinfool
    At least someone is getting to ride her......... But seriously, what is a normal amount of miles that one would expect a dealer to put on a vehicle after this type of major job? It sure sound like it is getting close to time for a homecoming party. 3 Months is a long time to be with out a vehicle. Every time I ever took in a cage for warranty work and they had to keep it overnight, they gave me a loaner. Has anyone ever asked for a loaner while a bike was in the shop for major work? After all you are still paying for insurance, and possibly making payments.
  13. Flyinfool
    Now Don, Ya gots to quit changen thins in dat der classyfides, and den postin bout it, cuz ever time you do, I gots to go and see what ya done, and den I finds sumpin I jist gots to have. :mo money: :mo money: :mo money:
  14. Flyinfool
    And here I though we all had a few loose screws.......... I think I would just leave those parts in the tank and find new ones.
  15. Flyinfool
  16. Flyinfool
    :rotf: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotf: :crackup:
  17. Flyinfool
    Some of it is just learning the beast. If I ever close the choke all the way on mine there is no way it will start, just flood. Unless the temp is below freezing it only takes about 50% of choke to start it, then I adjust the choke position to get a 1500-2000 idle. I let it warm up like that while I put on my riding gear. As soon as I am geared up, I adjust the choke to about a 1000 idle and take off gently. By the time I get to the end of the block I can pull the choke all of the way off. Just be careful with corners till it is warmed up, if it sputters in a corner it could drop you. If it is below freezing I usually have to keep the choke at the 1500-2000 setting till I get to the end of the block. then back of to a slightly hi idle for a couple more blocks. There should be no difference in sitting 1 day, 5 days or a month. It should start the same. Mine just sat for 5 months and started right up just like normal. I would try giving it a good dose of SeaFoam, maybe something is the carbs is just a little sticky and the gum hardens after a couple of days.
  18. Flyinfool
    Well then don't say it, just type it. I am the worst at remembering names.
  19. Flyinfool
    I kind of have to agree with Condor here and join the devils advocate side. It is possible to have to much light. The headlights on a train are incredibly powerful, when all you see is a blob of light you have no perception of distance to that light. Most of the cars that get hit by trains say that they saw the light but thought it was a lot farther away. To an oncoming car if they can not identify your blob of light as a MC they may think it is a car with its Hi beams on that is very far away and turn right in front of you thinking they have plenty of time. Once you get more than about 30 yards away from something, you no longer have actual depth perception. Beyond 30 yards it is just your brain doing the math of, object A is about B big and it looks to be about C big therefore it must be D far away.
  20. Flyinfool
    Yes
  21. Flyinfool
    Thanks Just by feel in my hand, the new receiver hitch feels to be very close to the the same weight as the Markland platform it is replacing, so I was/am not concerned about the weight. The bike is a 1st gen, they last forever....... I did do a test by attaching it to the wall and then jumping up and down on the stinger. I am not skinny either. And I was very careful to be sure that there were NO cameras of any kind around for that test.
  22. Flyinfool
    Dielectric grease is used more than you think. I have a 96 GMC P/U that I bought new in 95, every outside connector that I have ever had to take apart has dielectric grease in it. Every bulb has its base coated with dielectric grease. This was even true on my 89 Chevy P/U. You have to look close to find it cuz the factories do not use any more than absolutely necessary. It is always a VERY thin film. As it should be.
  23. Flyinfool
    When I first opened the link all that was there was the first line. Its much better now.
  24. Flyinfool
  25. Flyinfool
    I must admit I never weighed anything. I do not have a scale suitable for weighing light weight things. According to my CAD software it should be about 4.5 lbs for the receiver, but my uncalibrated hand says it is less than that. It may be a little overkill for strength, but I would rather have overkill than under kill. The ball alone weighs more than the stinger it is attached to. Till I finish building the trailer I do not have the final design for the stinger/ball height to be able to calculate the stingers weight.
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