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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
  2. Flyinfool
    If you can smell exhaust you are also getting Carbon Monoxide. CO is noting to mess with, you will be sound asleep before you realize you have a problem.
  3. Flyinfool
    It worked fine thanks
  4. Flyinfool
  5. Flyinfool
    Along the slow starter issues. I was at a local surplus boating supplies place looking for some water proof switches over the weekend. I found that they have an assortment of premade 4AWG stranded cables in red and black with the lugs already crimped on. A 3 foot was $5 and a 1 foot was $2. I just need to figure out what lengths I need for the 3 cables on the 1st Gen, and what hole sizes, and I will be able to do the upgrade for around $15-$20. Or if they do not have the right lengths premade, they have the red or black cable for $2/foot and the terms for $1.25 ea. I have read that this goes a long way to helping the hot starting issue.
  6. Flyinfool
    Thanks There is still a lot to do but it is getting there. I personally have been in situations where I did not have the extra split second to shift into gear before I could be hard on the power to blow the red light thru a traffic gap to avoid getting creamed from behind. At 30 mph a cage travels 44 feet per second, even if you are fast enough to pull in the clutch, pick your foot up off the ground and click it into gear in a half second, (I doubt anyone is that fast) the errant cage is still another 22 feet closer to creaming you. I can not recall (but I do have CRS) any thread where someone wore out a throwout bearing on one of these bikes that would lead one to worry about implementing throwout bearing preservation techniques. On a cage maybe, on a bike no.
  7. Flyinfool
    :sign yeah that: What Dave said. My aiming was way off after the HID switch. I even found that My aiming changed just switching brand of the old halogens. It is so easy, and important, to just check the aim after any kind of headlight work, even just taking it out and putting it back in.
  8. Flyinfool
    Just Google "road dust reduction" there is bunches of info and products out there.
  9. Flyinfool
    I finally got enough stuff done on the bike to take it out for the first of many required doses of the treatment for PMS. There is no cure. Not a monster ride but a good shakedown of about 80 miles with a lot of it around town. About a third of it was on local streets and the rest on local highways. The wind was brutal, I have never ridden in that much wind and at one point going over a high bridge, with a 40mph cross wind, over the harbor, I had to slow down to about 40mph just to stay on the bike. There were a couple of times that a gust hit me hard enough that I had to make an effort to not get blown off the side of the bike. The bike itself seemed to handle the cross wind just fine, it was me that didn't. Of course the bike ran crappy since the tank is/was full of gas bought in October of last year, and of course it was crap reformulated gas to boot. It was well dosed with SeaFoam before it went to sleep for the winter. In a couple of more days of commuting to work, I should have the tank empty and be able to give her a nice drink of fresh gas. It is going to take a lot more work to get my left arm back into riding shape after the injuries from last month. I still can not hold in the clutch for a whole red light but a month ago I could not pull in the clutch at all. And yes being the stubborn one that I am, I have been avoiding seeing a Dr about it. I am hoping that in another week I can start pulling the trailer around some to get used to it being back there before I make the epic (for me) trek to Ohio in June. I have started to pay attention to my location in the lane and pretending that I am pulling the trailer. But the bottom line is that my PMS is doing a lot better now.
  10. Flyinfool
    This is why a one tank test is not a good baseline. If you do the test over say 10 tanks of fuel (even 2 or 3 is a lot better than 1) then the differences in the fill level will be accounted for. I have noticed a difference in mileage even between brands of gas.
  11. Flyinfool
    I have a 1st gen so there is no "standard" driving light. I do not know what type of bulb the driving lights on a 2nd gen use. I will be using the KC HiLites 35 series driving lights, (I should get them tonight). I have these same lights on my truck and really like them. The beam pattern is somewhere in-between a driving light and a fog light. Part of the lens is focused for distance like a driving light, and part to light up the shoulder to spot critters like a fog light. These come with 55W halogen bulbs but I will replace the halogens with the new 35W HID. The HID that I got does have 2 ballasts. I got the H3 bulbs in the 6000K color. My headlight is The Bi-Xenon H4 bulb 6000K color.
  12. Flyinfool
    +1 on HID Country. The H3 set that I picked up for my driving lights is also from HID Country for $37 for the 2 light SET.
  13. Flyinfool
    Running a higher rpm is not necessarily more stress. To low of an rpm beats the bejesus out of the connecting rod bearings.
  14. Flyinfool
    An HID bulb also has no filament to break and short out. I am putting HIDs into my driving lights next.
  15. Flyinfool
    I got #1 on the list done last night. The center contact for the switch has a bunch of crud/corrosion on it. I used a soft brass wire wheel in my Dremel to clean it up, regreased it, and it works great now. While I was in there I also cleaned and regreased all of the contacts in all of the switches. I also noticed that there was room to install a switch to turn the headlight off. The best thing is that the wire that needs to be switched is right there. Just have to take the blue wire off the HI/LO switch and connect it to the new switch, and add a 1 inch jumper from the new switch back to the HI/LO switch. That will allow me to keep the HID off till the engine is started.
  16. Flyinfool
    DOH! I get stuff from McMaster all the time but never thought of that one. Thanks.
  17. Flyinfool
    An auto salvage yard was my very first thought also. Should be lots to choose from.
  18. Flyinfool
    OK a couple of more ideas here. Fuel level gauges almost always have some form of damping on them so that the display is not jumping around with every wave caused by motion of the bike. This damping can be either mechanical on the sender itself or electrical most likely at the meter. If the damping is mechanical at the sender, and caused by a buildup of dried fuel or other crud on the moving parts Then keeping the tank near full with some Seafoam in the gas may help to clean it up. If the damping is electrical in nature, it will be a lot harder to locate since it is most likely a bad or weak component on a circuit board, The electrical possibility is a lot less likely to "fix" itself, where some crud could wear off and go away.
  19. Flyinfool
    At least someone is getting to ride her......... But seriously, what is a normal amount of miles that one would expect a dealer to put on a vehicle after this type of major job? It sure sound like it is getting close to time for a homecoming party. 3 Months is a long time to be with out a vehicle. Every time I ever took in a cage for warranty work and they had to keep it overnight, they gave me a loaner. Has anyone ever asked for a loaner while a bike was in the shop for major work? After all you are still paying for insurance, and possibly making payments.
  20. Flyinfool
    Now Don, Ya gots to quit changen thins in dat der classyfides, and den postin bout it, cuz ever time you do, I gots to go and see what ya done, and den I finds sumpin I jist gots to have. :mo money: :mo money: :mo money:
  21. Flyinfool
    And here I though we all had a few loose screws.......... I think I would just leave those parts in the tank and find new ones.
  22. Flyinfool
  23. Flyinfool
    :rotf: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotf: :crackup:
  24. Flyinfool
    Some of it is just learning the beast. If I ever close the choke all the way on mine there is no way it will start, just flood. Unless the temp is below freezing it only takes about 50% of choke to start it, then I adjust the choke position to get a 1500-2000 idle. I let it warm up like that while I put on my riding gear. As soon as I am geared up, I adjust the choke to about a 1000 idle and take off gently. By the time I get to the end of the block I can pull the choke all of the way off. Just be careful with corners till it is warmed up, if it sputters in a corner it could drop you. If it is below freezing I usually have to keep the choke at the 1500-2000 setting till I get to the end of the block. then back of to a slightly hi idle for a couple more blocks. There should be no difference in sitting 1 day, 5 days or a month. It should start the same. Mine just sat for 5 months and started right up just like normal. I would try giving it a good dose of SeaFoam, maybe something is the carbs is just a little sticky and the gum hardens after a couple of days.
  25. Flyinfool
    Well then don't say it, just type it. I am the worst at remembering names.
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