Flyinfool

Who says we are at the top of the food chain? The other day on my way into work had a cage blast past me in the left turn only lane and had to cut back in hard to avoid the median and traffic lights. Fortunately it was not just me that she wanted to pass and it was a cage two cars up that she sideswiped into the ditch. No one was hurt and yes I did hang around and be late for work to be a witness. The dingbat got a whole slew of traffic citations. The cop wrote her up on everything he could think of. Fortunately for the guy she hit, she did have insurance.

This could be a wrinkle in the plans. The boss has a FUBARed foot. (no it was not from kicking me in the a$$.......) There is a whole hardware store in that foot now, with 4 broken toes, that have long pins almost to the ankle to hold all of the pieces lined up, and a few screws for good measure that will be permanent. She spent 4 hours in surgery getting all of the parts lined up. The prognosis is for a full recovery. I'll have to see if she is going to be ambulatory enough to handle letting the dog out and taking care of herself with me gone for a weekend. It does not look good at the moment. I really wanted to make it to my first MD.

Dielectric grease, available at most auto parts stores.

83 to 85 are different from the 86 up.

That is when I usually will watch real close for those same bone heads when I have my P/U so that I have proper tonnage. I can then safely MAKE them move very slowly down the road and really get them POed. If you drive the same route at about the same time every day and pay attention, you will learn to recognize that you see the same vehicals in about the same place at about the same time every day. It was raining today, so I was in the truck, makes it time for payback........ I've never had someone try to squeeze past me in my lane, but then when I am on the bike I use the whole lane to discourage that very behavior.

I have a 4 way stop similar to what you describe. What I do is to slow down extra early so that I can time it for my lowest comfortable speed to get me to the stop sign just as it is my turn to be there. My slowest comfortable speed is less than idle in first gear so I am using the brake and friction zone. If there is room and traffic will allow I plan my approach speed and spacing so that I can just idle in first gear and save the wear and tear on the clutch and brakes and my first stop is at the stop sign. You really want to break the habit of dragging your feet before it becomes second nature. I have a riding buddy that rides about 15K miles per year. His feet are down any time the bike is moving less than 15-20 mph. It is such a habit for him that he completely denies it if you mention it to him. He goes thru 2 sets of riding boots a year.

Progress pics are good too....

I stand corrected, What time is dinner.......

While the camera person thought it was quite funny, it looked like the guy was out cold face down in the rain. Now if he did get back up and was not hurt,,,,, then it would be more funny.

I have never hit a deer with the bike, YET. I have hit a few with my truck. They were still delicious. One thing that I have noticed is that if you hit the horn and scare them, they run in whatever direction they are pointed. So if they are on the side of the road looking at you, guess which way they will go if your horn scares them. Just a vehicle does not bother them, that is normal, vehicles have going up and down that road all of their lives, they expect that. But when something unexpected happens like a loud horn they just start running. What I have found is that if you just leave then alone they will just stand there and watch you go by like they have done to a thousand other vehicles. Now if the deer is already running cuz something in the woods spooked them, there is almost nothing that you can do to change their speed or course.

You cant get much more visible than this. But even a police bike with lights and sirens on is still not enough to be noticed by this stupid cager. http://www.todaystmj4.com/news/local/121966754.html I hope the officer heals up quick and with no lasting issues.

But at least they broke the Kayaking into 3 segments. AUs to Japan, Japan to Hawaii, and Hawaii to Wasington st.

Don, this is great, now that the riding season is here for most of us is it time foe a new update? Even though everyone will probably already be at MD if/when I call.

If you can tell us what thread is in the K Lever and what thread is on the mirror maybe we can come up with an adapter for you.

I wondered about the pictures. In Wisconsin there are no plates issued for trailers under 3000 lbs GVW. I do have the bike listed for my I-Pass. I listed the trailer on my I-pass and just put NONE for the plate number. So depending on there camera angle the trailer could block the view of the bikes license plate. I did call the I-Pass people and was told that even on the bike the transponder must be put on the top center of the windshield, FAT CHANCE of that happening, on any bike.

:rotf: Go to Google earth and get driving directions to MD. :rotfl: What a gas to follow the route :rotf: 25,516 miles, Drive time about 55 days, 23 hours. You better hurry..........

I hope it works ok but I will have my transponder in the trunk of the bike. It should pick up the signal at least as easy as from inside of a cage. The distance from the front wheel of the bike to the trunk is about the same as from the front of my cage to the transponder. I am NOT putting stickies on my brand new windshield on the bike.

If we knew where to send them they would have to wait in line. It must have been pulled while I was typing. The family has been flagging it all day. Hopefully no damage has occurred. Probably find out at the end of the month The add has been up since the 13th. We found out about it this morning when someone in California used the address to look up a phone number and called for more info.

There is an add on Craigs list right now for a house for rent. The add lists the address, has pictures, and it is my parents house. My parents are NOT trying to rent this house. This house in this neighborhood would rent for a lot more than the CL add. The reply to email address even has my fathers name in it. This is a scam, the police have been notified but said there is not much they can do. There have been local news reports of this where someone is taking real estate listings (yes the house was just listed for sale 2 weeks ago) and using the info from that to create these for rent adds, usually the first that someone knows of it is when one or more moving vans shows up in front of their house with one or more familys expecting to move in having already paid their first and last months rent plus security deposit. Not only are these family's out the money they sent to the scammer but they have already terminated the lease where they were living. This is the ad http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/apa/2380005353.html Please go to the add and click on prohibited, then open the ad again and click spam. Hopefully with enough feedback CL will pull the ad before something bad happens. Thanks for your help on this

That is exactly why they invented Dielectric grease. To keep the water out of electrical connections. If you have corrosion in your socket, which could be the cause of you bad ground, clean it up and coat the bulb base and the inside of the socket and contacts with dielectric grease and put the bulb back in. That should keep it good and clean till you have to change the bulb someday when it dies of old age.

OK so it has been a while. I FINALLY got around to hooking something up so that the headlight does not light when I turn on the ignition and then go out when I hit the starter and then have to relight again. I am sure that the extra starts on the ballast are not doing it any good. So here is what I ended up with. I have a push button switch to turn the headlight on and a flashing LED to tell me the light has not yet been turned on. First off I no longer have the jumpers as pictured way back in the how to part of this thread. I acquired a dead Reserve Lighting Unit, from a member here, just so I could cut the connector off of it. You could still do this by attaching to the jumpers on the RLU connector as shown previously. I used 18AWG wire for everything. I use the type of crimp on terminals that have the built in heat shrink tubing. I completely removed the RLU from the bike to make more room for this mod and I can see that I will not be going back to needing it. Parts list; Switch - SPST, push button, momentary, Normally Open. Digi-Key #679-1040-ND Switch boot - Water proof boot for switch, Digi-Key #679-1297-ND Relay - SPDT, 30A, Digi-Key #255-1830-ND LED - Bright red, blinking, Radio Shack #276-312 LED holder - holder for LED Radio Shack #276-080 Resistor - 330 ohm 1/8W, Radio Shack #271-012 Assorted wire, shrink tubing and terminals type stuff. The steps; I soldered a jumper wire onto the relay from terminal 87 to terminal 85. You could just as easily add the jumper using the QC terminals. Crimp a QC terminal onto the Blue/black wire from the RLU connector, and add in an extra wire enough to reach to the place you intend to install the push button switch to this crimp and attach the QC to Term 30 of the relay. Crimp a QC term to the extra wire from step 2 and plug it onto the switch. Make up a wire with a QC on each end the same length as the extra wire from step 2. Plug one end of this wire onto term 85 of the relay and the other end onto the remaining term of the switch. Slide the rubber part of the LED holder onto the leads of the LED. Look close at the leads of the LED, notice that one of the leads is longer than the other one. Solder a 330 ohm resistor onto the long lead and attach a wire to the resistor that is long enough to reach back to the relay. Cover the resistor and its solder joints up to the rubber piece with heat shrink tubing. Attach a QC term to the other end of the wire and plug it onto Term 87a of the relay. Solder a wire long enough to reach back to the RLU connector to the short lead of the LED and cover with heat shrink tubing. Mount the LED holder in your desired location and then press the LED and the rubber up into the holder. I used just a dab of clear silicone just to seal it from water and to be sure that the LED can not fall out. Attach a QC to a 6 inch wire and plug it into term 86 of the relay. Bring together the Light Green, and Black wires from the RLU connector along with the free ends of the wires from the relay term 86, and the LED. connect these 4 wires together (I twisted them together and soldered) and cover with Heat shrink tubing. If you haven't already, connect the Yellow/Green and the Blue/red wires of the RLU connector together and cover with Heat shrink tubing. The yellow and the Green/Red wires of the RLU connector are not used, just insulate the ends to prevent shorting. Tape and seal everything up nice to keep water and corrosion out and dress and fasten everything down neatly. Operation will be as follows. When you turn the key on the LED will be flashing and the headlight will be off. Start the engine. The LED will be flashing and the headlight will still be off. Press the push button switch and the headlight will come on and the LED will turn off. The Headlight will stay on and the LED will stay off till something causes the head light to turn off, like pressing the starter switch or turning off the key. Anything that turns the headlight off will reset the circuit to having the headlight off and LED flashing. pushing the switch returns it to Headlight on and LED off. This will save the ballast from always having to start the HID twice every time you start the bike. This circuit could be easily adapted to a 2nd gen to avoid the problem of the voltage dropping during cranking and the HID turning off due to low voltage, and you having to shut the bike off and restart to get the HID back on. Again this almost took longer to type than to do. I will post pics later.

Too bad, It wont help around the Ice Cream. there is no stopping me. There are not many things that will get me away from the trough, I mean bucket...... I can close my eyes and hold my nose while sneaking in. ps a cattle prod can move a scary looking thong out of the way to......cute thongs do not need to be moved. If desperation sets in I can have my own thong at the ready.

Glad you are up and running, maybe even better than new. From Jeffs description it sounds like another oil change once you get home is in order. I also seem to remember a few people posting that that course took out a clutch. I guess it should be standard packing to bring a clutch kit and oil change to the MSF.

If you need anything just give me a call, I'm not that far away. Even if it starts to rain I can bring an EZ-UP. Might take 4 people to hold it down in this wind though.