Flyinfool
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Everything posted by Flyinfool
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This still makes me wish I could "legally" obtain a cell phone jammer. That way no one within 100 feet of me would be on the phone. Every car should be equipped with a jammer that activates when moving. There could be a 911 override.
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There are 7" electric drum brakes available that are made to fit in an 8" wheel and still have the same 4 bolt pattern. There are a few different brake controllers out that would be appropriate for this use.
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If we knew what you were trying to do we could help you out better. There are a LOT of different kinds of black plastic available with drastically different properties. For instance one of the least expensive is polyethylene, it can be cut and heat formed but is soft so that it will not hold a screw well and it is almost impossible to glue to. There are others that glue well but can not be formed, etc etc.
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Trailer brakes are feasible, and I have been giving it some serious thought, and I Have them all speced out as to what I will all need to do it. But there is no time to do that before MD. The stopping power on my bike was REALLY BAD before these new brakes.
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I just replaced my left front and rear brake pads with EBC HH. Last year I put the HH in the right front. It did not need new pads, the old ones were only worn to about 50%. I can not believe the difference in stopping power that the rear brake now has. I can literally stop in half the distance that it took with the old pads. I was very concerned about stopping power with a trailer in tow. My concern was justified, I will feel much better with the trailer now.
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No snickers bar but there was a Babe Ruth bar, guess I need to camp closer to the PP ................ I got the new HH pads installed for the left front and rear brakes. Put HH on the right front last year. WOW what a difference, This has alleviated my braking concerns with pulling the trailer. Getting close to done with everything. All that's left is to fab up a mount for the GPS, and fab up a cooler rack for the trailer. I plan on pulling the trailer to work all of next week just to get used to having it back there. I will have everything on my original list done in time to make it to MD. Now it is just up to Mamas bum foot.
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Well it is getting close enough for me to start watching the long range weather horrorcasts. The last 6 days of the 10 day horrorcast is for what would be near perfect weather. Not that I actually believe the weather people...........but it does give me something to look at. Think Freebird can string on another 3 good days onto the end of the week?
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Please help: Vibration/Buzz
Flyinfool replied to Drahthaar's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Yup check out the WI MD on the 11th. If that is still to far then there are some members in MN. As far as computer time, just pull rank. If that don't work, take the power cord with you. -
The Converter that I used is a Curt P/N 56146.
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Just take all of the parts and put them in a Ziploc baggie full of uncooked rice, it will be fine in a couple of weeks.
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Just do some simple sound desensitizing exercises like we do for hunting dogs. My dog as a pup was terrified of loud noises. Now just barely bats an eye for fireworks or thunder. But the dog on the desk is funny............
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Wally world will not spend a nickle that they do not absolutely have to. It should be easy enough to identify the phone just have whomever is picking it up call the phone to prove that they know its number. Assuming they were nice enough to turn it off to save the battery.
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The converter is most likely your culprit. Not all converters are compatible with LED lights. Some of the converters (especially older designs still in production) actually reverse the polarity of the bulbs depending on the present mode of operation. With incandescent bulbs it does not matter, they do not care about polarity, LEDs do care about polarity. If the package for the converter does not say LED compatible, you have a 50 / 50 chance as to weather it will work correctly. You want a converter that uses its own power source. If your converter does not have a separate power wire that goes direct to the battery then all of the trailer lighting power is going thru the bikes electrical system. The bike wiring and flasher circuit was not designed to handle the extra current. You could go to an electronic flasher on the bike, and/or play with adding resistors till you get it to work, but that will take some custom wiring and messing around on your part, and your bike will then be set up for that specific trailer. The converter that I have was only $18 at a local marine supply store, and it said on the package "LED compatible". I will check as soon as I get a chance to see what the model number is.
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We need more info on your setup. Is the trailer wired for 4 or 5 wire? Does the trailer use the same bulbs for both the brake lights and the turn signals or are they separate bulbs? Do you have a trailer light converter installed on the bike? If so which one? I just finished setting up my bike to pull a trailer with all LEDs and the flash rate is the same with or without the trailer connected all lights very bright when they should be and no light at all when they should be off. As it should be.
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Tom I have a couple of almost new ones up on a closet shelf at home. You can choose from a cheap portable up to a very high end deck for a home stereo system.
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I did update my maybe status. I am still a maybe depending on mamas foot.
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After reading up on the TCI job, it sounds a little ambitious for a MD project. But with Erikas foot issues, Dons MD is looking less likely and this one is looking more likely since I will only be gone from home for about 16 hours instead of 3 days. And with all of my new lights on the bike, riding home in the dark will be safer than it was last year.
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I'm on a roll today. Got the tent out and set it up. Two of the loops for the ground stakes were ripped out. Got it all sowed back together, better than new. Yes I know how to sew, I even own my own sewing machine.
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#14 is now done. I installed the KC HiLites Series 35 driving lights. The conversion to HID will have to wait till after MD. Just no time left. These lights will help a lot toward finding the deer on the sides of the road at night.
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Thats cuz you always ride with 2nd gens........
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Blonds might be fast, but they are seldom quick.......
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Moving TCI to airbox
Flyinfool replied to PEIslander's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have been looking on line and the new ones seem to start at $750 and go up from there. I have not found a good used one anywhere yet. Sounds a little pricey to save some wrenching time. Does anyone have a good TCI that I can buy? Does anyone have pics of the TCI on top of the air box??? -
Will anyone be coming that has done a 1st gen TCI diode replacement? Is this a realistic WI MD project? I can do the soldering part of it, I am very comfortable working on electronics. I just am not sure what all is involved in getting the TCI in and out of the bike. and or relocating it to the top of the air cleaner.
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Kool, in another 20 years when my 1st gen is getting tired I will finally be able to afford a EFI 2013 Yami. Ya think we will have all of the bugs figured out by then?
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Yup that is correct, Blue is the fastest and brown goes just a little faster, and Red goes just a little faster than ANY other color. More red vehicles get nabbed for speeding than any other color, that proves it. And of course 1st gens are faster, that way we always get first dibs on the ice cream and are relaxing with our favorite flavor, while waiting for the 2nd gens to catch up all relaxed and stuff. With this crowd you do not want to be last in line for ice cream, you might not get any. I also think that the 1st gens look much better tan the 2nd gens, to me the 2nd gens look to much like a hardly and I don't like there look either.