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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    Actually the article states that there is a 22% decrease in neck injury, from those WITH a helmet.
  2. Flyinfool
    Have you been visiting the PT department? Those pieces of equipment look more like modern versions of some medieval torturers tools.
  3. Flyinfool
    I did not realize that all Yamaha ATVs worldwide are built in the USA. http://www.bizjournals.com/milwaukee/news/2011/05/18/yamaha-adding-hundreds-of-us-jobs.html I sure wish I could just walk into the Yami distribution center that is almost walking distance from where I work to get the parts I need. But NOOOoooooo, They have to ship the part from my back yard halfway across the country so that someone else can ship the parts back where they came from. Now if we can just get the big bikes made here.........
  4. Flyinfool
    Is it just a matter of having to do some maintenance on the floating caliper, like maybe some grease on the pins, we all know that the Yami factory is allergic to grease around the rear wheel so they don't use it like they should. I never took a 2nd gen apart so I am just belching out ideas with no real knowledge here.
  5. Flyinfool
    Here are a couple of links. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...3&postcount=10 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...5&postcount=11 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33285 The first one is for an '83 and the second one is for an '84 If you are not comfortable soldering on a PCB, find a friend that is. I jumpered all 4 reed switches so that the CMU is ready when I convert to all LED lights. The reed switches are for; Headlight low beam Headlight High beam Tail light Brake light For the HID you need to do the 2 headlight switches and if you intend to put in a LED tail / brake light you need to do the other 2. So I just did all 4 so that I did not have to figure out which one does what. I did a writeup of getting to the CPU for the HID install on my '88 but it should be very similar for yours. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=462430&postcount=19 I do not think the front end of the Blue/white wire will be accessible from the headlight, you will probably need to pull the dash cover to get at it. Once you get to the connector at the back of the CPU, if there is no power at the blue/white wire, then check the blue wire at the CPU connector, if the blue lights the tester and the blue/white does not then your problem is in the CPU.
  6. Flyinfool
    And tell your friend to come here and join. It will be the best investment he can make in his bike.
  7. Flyinfool
    OK so how much stuff did you have to take off to get at the t-stat cover. Mine is now leaking. It has a small crack in the front. New cover, O-rings and t-stat are on order.
  8. Flyinfool
    Is that what makes the 2nd gens so slow? does everyone ride with their foot on the brake?:stickpoke: I just changed pads on the rear of my 1st gen and the pads had equal wear. On a 1st gen there are 2 pistons on the inside and 2 on the outside. I was told that the 2nd gen has only 2 pistons and a floating caliper. Could there be some excess friction in the floating caliper causing the inner pad to drag or not fully release.
  9. Flyinfool
    Glad to hear its better. Don't rush the recovery by doing anything you not supposed to do to soon.
  10. Flyinfool
    I wish I could be there to help. Would love to watch the process, and tool, in action. Some day I will have to do this too.
  11. Flyinfool
  12. Flyinfool
    Well you need to pull the CPU to jumper the reed switches for the HID headlight anyhow so that the red LED stops flashing at you and the headlight out icon turns off on the display. If the problem should happen to be in the CPU, The mod for installing your LED tail lights will be right where you need to be to also fix this problem. It is the sensor in the CPU that can break the circuit to the tail light and it will be correct in telling you that the tail light is not lit, even though the CPU is what caused it to not be lit. I would still check all of the wiring before tearing into the CPU. Good luck, electrical issues can be a PITA.
  13. Flyinfool
    My mistake, I guess the call it a CMU on the later models and a CPU on the 83. Either way it is a computer module that monitors the different things that can then be displayed as the icons on the monitor screen. The CPU is on the back side of the LCD screen on the dash. It can be a bit a a hassle to get to but not really all that bad. I would start with the blue wire at the tail light and check with the tester and start working my way forward. The wire starts out as a blue wire at the tail light and it changes to a blue wire with a white stripe as it goes thru a connector, I am not sure but I think that connector is under the seat on the left side. The Blue/White wire then runs all the way to the dash where it enters the CPU connector.
  14. Flyinfool
    I would start with the repair that you mentioned to be sure that it is good. It does not sound like a fuse issue at this time. All of the running lights are on the same fuse. You have either a cut/broken wire connection somewhere or a bad solder joint in the CMU. To find it all you can do is to start tracing the wire back from the tail light till you find the break and fix it. I would use a circuit tester that has an incandescent bulb to do the checking. It is possible to have a weak connection that will show as good with a voltmeter or LED tester but have to high of a resistance to pass the amps needed for lighting up the bulbs. You can download a wiring diagram for your bike Here The fuse upgrade is here Welcome to the family.
  15. Flyinfool
    I sure hope I am not down for a month.......... Its ridin season, and the bike gets so much better mileage than my truck.
  16. Flyinfool
    Well I just did the math for MPG for the trip to WI MD with the trailer. I only lost 2 MPG over what I normally get. I can live with that. I was very conscious about keeping the revs up, on the 3 hour trip there, I never used 5th gear at all but it was all back highways where the top speed limit was 55, on the trip home I took the interstate and did use 5th once up to crusing speed but went back to 4th as soon as I got close to town and the speed limit dropped back to 55. Now it has me thinking that I will try the higher revs in my normal driving to see if it helps mileage. But that is fodder for another thread.
  17. Flyinfool
    The width between the ramps is the same as Randys tool that I copied. I don't have the part or the final drawing here to see what I made it. I was going to post the final drawing of the way I actually made it one it is verified that it actually works. The first part that I sent to Randy was not heat treated, That would be an extra expense if it is not needed. I have made a second tool that I will heat treat so that it is ready to go just in case this one fails. I made this out of 1045 steel so it is pretty tough already. The tool that Randy sent me as a sample, almost looked like it was made from powdered metal.
  18. Flyinfool
    I never thought of that one. I'll look into it what it will take to pull the starter while I am in there. Might also be a good time to snake in some #4 welding cables. Its always a crap shoot as to weather or not it will crank on the first try when I stop for gas. Oh I hate the "While I Am There Game", It always turns a not so bad job into a major project, I always get carried away when I play that game. The end result is always much better, but it is still a pain and expensive to play the game.
  19. Flyinfool
    The OP is only talking about only the tail lights being out. That is why I asked about the front running lights, If he has front running lights and no tail lights, the fuse is good for now, and my first guess would then be a broken solder joint in the CMU. A perfect time to jumper out the reed switches if there is any intent of converting to LED someday.
  20. Flyinfool
    The ramps are the same height, or at least as close as I could measure with the tools available, the center section between the ramps is a little taller on the second half so that it can not shift sideways if you need to rotate more than 90°. That is why the ramp goes around a full 180° It was not till after the fact that I realized that I do not think it needs to be nearly as complicated as Yami made it. Yami may have made it so complicated so that it would be hard to duplicate. It does not need all of those different radii on different centers. If I were to start over, it would be a bunch simpler to make. Unless there is some other issue that I do not yet know about.
  21. Flyinfool
    From the wiring diagram it does not look like there are any relays involved in the tail light or brake light. What reading are you getting with your multimeter and where exactly are you measuring from - to? Are the front running lights lit?
  22. Flyinfool
    I was hoping that it would not be to bad to get to. The Yami service manual has it in the engine out of of bike overhaul section. I just hate wiggling things around on these old machines, you never know what old brittle thing will break in the process. If you let me know quick I can see if I can add the Yami O-rings to my order that I just placed this morning. I have just one set of o-rings for both the t-stat cover and the tube coming, I also have a new cover and tube coming. They were not expensive. Then we just need to figure out where/how to meet up for you to get them from me.
  23. Flyinfool
    Well after 3 years of leaking coolant I finally found the leak while at the WI MD. This was a leak that only happened when the engine was cold. I cold never find any drop or stain on anything on the bike. I know everyone will say it was the drain cock, the symptoms match that one perfectly. I did the new o-ring and SS screw upgrade and cleaned all of the corrosion out of the o-ring bore so I know it is not that, and the drip is more to the right side of the bike. This normally only leaked a couple of drops of coolant per day. After I got to the WI MD and the bike was parked for about 6 hours I spotted a drop on the driveway. I figured that I could finally catch the bike in the act of taking a leak, and I did. Well what I finally found is a tiny hairline crack about a half inch long in the thermostat cover. while I am in there I will also replace the hard 90° elbow that has a dent in it fro the right crash bar. I'll also grind off the corner of the crash bar so that it does not dent the new tube so easy. I have the new parts ordered. Now I just need to figure out how to get to it. From a distance it looks like the radiator and exhaust pipe are in the way. Any pointers will be helpful. What else should I do in there while it is apart?
  24. Flyinfool
    Good luck Bob. Are you gonna ride the scoot to and from the OR since that seems to make the back feel better?????
  25. Flyinfool
    I can describe that in one word OUCH!!!!
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