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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. The other good test is to put the bike up on the center stand and turn the rear wheel slowly by hand. when the dragging gets bad enough to be tight when turning by hand it is probably time to do something. Mine has been dragging for 5 years now, on the center stand I can just barely feel the spot that it drags, as long as it does not get worse and the brakes work properly I'm fine. I check it every time I check tire pressure.
  2. I would need a garbage can lid to make a belt buckle big enough to cover up my cute belly....... But I do like SS over leather.
  3. I did send an email to Ricks to ask.
  4. Does a 1st and 2nd gen use the same stator?
  5. And you didn't invite all of us??????
  6. Sorry but the Cessna Caravan is not a small plane, In my book at holding 14 passengers plus crew is still a good size airplane. Sounds like a fun trip.
  7. How accuratly the tank is filled has nothing to do with MPG. The odometer tells you how far you traveled and the pump will tell you how much gas you used. Write both of these numbers down on a piece of paper. after a couple of refills add up the total gallons used and the total miles driven. Miles ÷ gallons = miles per gallon Nothing at all to do with how full the tank was. Now if you are trying to figure out the range of a tank of fuel, just fill it up with as much as will fit. NEVER fill it right to the top unless you will be riding at least 20 miles immediately after filling the tank. If you fill it right to the top then as the gas in the tank expands from the engine heat and/or air temp some may dump out the overflow. I hate dumping gas on the ground. As far as I know there is no overflow tank, just an over flow. As far as how much to fill it. Unless I am topping off for a long ride, I just fill to the bottom of the filler neck the first time, but putting as much as possible in there you are really only getting in enough extra gas for about 10 miles at the most. around town that is not an issue, out on the open road where gas stops are few and far between it might matter.
  8. Yup. There is a coil of wire with a glass component running thru the inside of the coil. It is that glass component that you are soldering a jumper across. While you are there, add just a tiny bit of solder the the solder joints at each end of the coils. these solder joints are known to break over time. Also I looked at all of the solder joints on the boards with a magnifying glass to look for any that might be starting to crack. I did not find any on mine.
  9. I have been getting a lot of requests for where to find out about jumping the reed switches in the cmu, here are 3 threads to get you started. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...3&postcount=10 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...5&postcount=11 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33285 These are for an earlier MkI cmu but the principle is the same and the parts that need to be jumpered still look the same.
  10. These should get you started. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...3&postcount=10 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...5&postcount=11 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33285
  11. I found it. It is on Craigs list Madison. It is now 5 bikes for 2500. 3 of them running, 2 disassembled. They are all MkI 1200cc. Bummer..................
  12. Parts bikes in Laydysmith? I am hoping (If Erikas foot can handle it) to be in Laydysmith for the July 4th weekend. I will be driving thru Caddott, maybe can cause trouble there to.
  13. Did you ever check the aiming of your new HID? If you are constantly getting flashed and you say that you have no need for a hi-beam, you may have installed it so that you effectively are always on high beam. Do you really want to risk blinding an oncoming car or truck so that it drifts into your lane? Yes you want to keep both Hi and Lo beams working and make sure they are properly aimed. I have had to reaim the headlights EVERY time I have ever changed a bulb on any vehicle, every bulb has manufacturing tolerances and is just a little different.
  14. Here is the thread of the changes that I had to do to my 88 to be able to use the Bixenon bulb. If you are willing to give up your hi beam (I would not even consider it) then you can go with one of the plug and play systems. The changes in that thread almost literally took longer to type up than to do.
  15. Well she is back home today. The pins did not come out like they were supposed to. They did not want to pull the pins because removing the pins would have left a deep hole for the infection to get to the inside of the bones. That would not be good. The infection is not fully cleared up but it is looking a lot better now than it did last week. Pin removal has been rescheduled for Friday morning. Once the pins are out, then it is just the final healing of the pin holes and getting the mussels to work again. But at least once the pins are out she can and is supposed to be walking on it. 3 Days after pin removal she can then let it get wet.
  16. For an easy upgrade either a higher wattage H4 bulb or a Silverstar Ultra bulb. If you go with the higher wattage bulb You will want to plug it in and run it at home for a while to be sure the wires are not getting hot. HID is worth the hassle of the rewiring.
  17. Whats wrong with this picture?????? I think the sparks are photoshopped but still funny.
  18. I agree that it is a shame to intentionally waste the meat. At least in Wisconsin, if a motorist hits an animal, that motorist has first rights to take the animal home for the meat or other purposes, like mounting if it happens to be trophy caliber. If the motorist that hit the animal does not want it then it is available to anyone that wants it, you simply have to have the LEO slap a road kill tag on it to make it legal for you to be in position of it out of season and/or without a hunting license. There is no cost for the road kill tag. There are people around here that stop at every road kill and hit it with some spray paint, then on their way home from wherever they were they know that any unpainted carcases are fresh enough to take home. I have stopped at active car deer accident scenes and ended up with a deer in the back of my truck when the original motorist did not want the deer. Sounds like time to write your state reps to have the rules changed, there is no reason to intentionally waste all of that meat.
  19. I would have been all over the Wildlife Dept to slap a road kill tag on that bear and let me butcher him up. Bear meat is some really good stuff, especially from a nice young bear like that one.
  20. Don't forget that you also need the gasket for the middle gear cover and the copper crush washer for the bottom bolt of the middle gear cover. At least on a 1st gen the middle gear cover has to come off before you can get the engine side cover off. That sounds like a plan. Burnt on one leg is perfect for my needs.
  21. I appreciate the offer, but I could not bring myself to disassemble a perfectly good stator just for my curiosity. Now if someone had a bad stator laying around................
  22. The one from Ricks appears to be the same output as the stock stator. Part of what you are paying for from Buckeye is the claimed 25% more power available for your electrical toys and accessories. Is one of these any better quality than the other? I have no clue. [senseless babbling] I would really like to examine a Buckeye "Higher Output" and Ricks "OEM type" stator side by side to see just what the differences are. I have done motor rewinding, it cant be that much harder to rewind a stator. Some day when my stator dies I may try to rewind it before I spend the bucks on a replacement. [\senseless babbling]
  23. Oh that,s just another advantage of a full face helmet........
  24. 1. Did you tell him that you are a member of VentureRiders.org for a discount? 2. That price includes the gasket set need for the job. When you compare others make sure to include the price for the 3 needed gaskets.
  25. As you take it apart look closely at the wire 3 circuit. It is that circuit that is grounded. It could still very well be a fried winding that is connected to wire 3 and the coil its self is grounded some where in the windings. If it is a grounded coil it should be obvious as soon as you get the cover off. If the wires on the new stator have the cloth cover going thru the rubber grommet, spray it real good with brake cleaner to get any oil or mold release out of the cloth and then rub some black RTV into the cloth where it goes thru the grommet on both sides of the grommet. Otherwise the engine oil will wick its way thru the fibers of the cloth wire cover and you will have a pesky oil leak.
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