Flyinfool

I would also probably do a T patch and just keep going, unless you think it tore a bunch of the cord in the tire. That looks like a sheet metal screw, roofs do not use small screws for anything, more likely fell off of an old car.

Are you rotating it on your phone or your computer? When I take sideways pics on my phone I have to open then on my computer in Photoshop, rotate them the right way and save it. then they will come on the forums the right way. But then I do have Android and Windows so my oranges might not apply to your apples.

I do not know about modding the frame to lower the seat height, I have never heard of that being done. That does not mean it cant be done, I just never heard of it. A number of us have sent their seats into @Rick Butler and he can mod the seat for better comfort and get it lower. Then there is always the option of getting riding boots with thicker soles. On the first gens you can not raise the fork tubes in the triple tree. I have not heard of a set of lowering links for the first gens. Raising the tubes and changing the links are only for the 2nd gens. Your 91 is a 1st gen.

Thats OK, we loose the tourists up here because we tell them to "go jump in the lake".....

That vid was out of focus??? I did not realize that, I just thought that is what Puc looks like.........

The one thought that I still have is, what is happening to the tires while hanging on to push 964 lbs around the switchbacks, vs the tire load on the ST bike at half the weight. The tires on the SVTC are a lot more expensive than on the ST. I am thinking in terms of while I will occasionally scrape a foot peg, my tires usually get replaced due to age and not due to wear, while others like our buddy Puc has gone thru 5 sets of tires in a year.

As part of my installing the HID headlight I also had to jumper the sensors in the CMU so that the blinking red light would not come on. It sounds like you have a number of issues going on that any one of which could make that blinking red light turn on. On my bike it will blink for a couple of minutes and then at least it becomes a solid red light so you do not have to put up with the blinking. I am not sure if the MK Is do that to. Trying to tackle all the issues at once will make you crazy. Trust Me..... Pick one and we can help you over come it, and then we can move to the next issue. @cowpuc

I have a good friend that is into metal detecting. I have put a bunch of his items up on ebay for him. I was shocked at what some of the "junk" ended up selling for. For instance, old expired dog tags as in for Fido type dog tag, from the 1940s and 50s, from small local towns, one went for $35, one went for $75, then the next one went for $300 and the one that blew me away went for $450. I would have dug them up and pissed and moaned and probably tossed them out. Some of his tricks to finding good old stuff is to during your travels, if you see a section of public sidewalk that is freshly torn up in an older neighborhood, Where they have not dug out the old dirt, stop and detect the freshly exposed dirt for things that may have been dropped before the original sidewalk was poured. Try to hit it ASAP after the old sidewalk was removed and not once the bed is all prepped for the new pour, workers will get very POed if you mess up work they already did. Another popular place to look if your detector is waterproof, on a popular beach in about 2-4 feet of water, young newlyweds or newly engaged often play Frisbee in the water, the cold water, (especially the big pond) will make their fingers shrink and they end up flinging the engagement or wedding rings right off their fingers into the water, where they disappear into the sand. If you happen to be there when it happens and are a nice guy and find it for them a reward is often offered. Guaranteed to get you a very big hug..... If no one is there and you can not identify the owner, these rings can be worth a LOT of money. If you want exercise, go to a local ski hill this time of year, (public or get permission first) and hit the bunny hill and pick up hundreds of quarters and other loose change. Armature skiers fall down a lot and usually do not have the best gear with zippered pockets. Walking up and down that hill is a lot of exercise.

:sign yeah that: I had to remove my RLU because I put in a HID headlight and it was not compatible with the RLU system. The RLU does not turn on the warning light or light the headlight icon on the dash. The RLUs only indicator is the white headlight light on the dash. The red flashing warning light and the dash icon are controlled by the CMU. What Puc is describing is how I did mine. I cut the pigtail off of a RLU did all of the jumping and then just plugged the jumpered connector back in. This way IF someone ever want to go back to the stock setup it is just a matter of plugging in an RLU. The electricity in the wires has no idea if you did the jumpers before or after the connector unless your connector has dirty contacts. On the other hand you can make more reliable connections by eliminating a 30 year old connector. This would be a reason to chop up your harnees and not do the connector thing. One you remove the RLU if a headlight filament burns out, it will get real dark real fast if it is night time. This can be a real pucker factor if you are going around a curve at 60 MPH on a dark country road, Trust me. Do I have you completely cornfused now?

And just to keep it all relevant..... https://youtu.be/sJPzPOKshQA

But for all you know the trouper was cruising along at 5 over. They do that a lot here, then anything that catches up to them or pulls away from them is going to see all his pretty lights.

With some help I managed to get the bike out of the shed so that I could get to the lawn mower. I took a quick ride thru the local park, only about 4 miles. but it sure felt good. It looks like I will be required to take a ride every time the grass needs cutting.

20 thou is a lot to be worn off the mating spline. At least to me anyhow. I would take a gander at Tweeks mating spline and pick the best one. Once the wheel is off, swapping rear ends is easy.

After the nice winter we just had would it even be safe for me to blink, let alone dare to fall asleep with all you MI lop eared varmints all in the same place with me???? I seem to remember some mentions of tar and some feathers..........

E4 is almost always cracked solder that can not be seen with the naked eye. It is faster to just reflow all of the joints than it is to try to find the cracked one. And even if you do find the cracked one and fix just it, another one may crack putting it back together, and then you get to start all over. A little touch of Rosin flux on each joint will help to float away any impurities in the solder and make it all easier and better.

The carbs on my 88 have never needed to come out yet, so I would call that not needing a lot of maintenance. As far as a good sync, EFI also needs to get synced regularly for the same reasons. As mentioned as long as you take care of the carbs they will need little to no work done for many years at a time. Taking care just means avoiding ethanol gas if you can (I can not), and using a cleaner in the gas every once in a while (Most here use Seafoam), and changing the fuel filter before you HAVE to and proper winter storage.

Wheres the pics? If there are no pics it didn't happen.

3 feet to 6 feet is a big difference, I see it everyday using a Db meter. does not matter if it is 4" to 8 inch or 40 feet to 80 feet, the sound level still halves. Yup, time to break out the multi meter and find out what is really happening.

Where's all your SNOW, Someone must have forgot you............... I always knew you had a worn out gear............... How does the mating spline look???

Are you testing loudness with the horn in the same location? if you double the distance you reduce the sound level by half. so if when it is connected to the stock wires it is 2 feet from your ear then you mountit lower with the relay at 4 feet from your ear then it should sound half as loud. Location can also have a big impact on sound. It could be the location that is making it sound less loud.

A couple of things to check 1. Is the polarity of the wires going to the horn correct? 2. What size wire did you use from the battery to the relay and the relay to the horn? What size ground wire?

If you are making replacement cables, the thing to use is #4 AWG welding cable, you can get the cable and terminals from most welding supply houses. The cable that Yamaha used is to small and drops voltage.

I was thinking of starting at 2-2.5K and see where it goes from there. I decide when I see how good it looks once it is all cleaned up. Dang was I tempted to try to take it out for a spin today..................

So I guess then that if everything on the property is level regardless of what that level is, then it is not considered a hole eh? I guess I could say they are road flares...... Or use C4 and say it is silly putty?

Would they let me bring a case or 2 of DYNAMITE across the border. Get that stump out in a big hurry and move it to a neighbor a few blocks away....