Flyinfool

I will be at an event today where there will be a PP. But my bike will be home. I just can't carry the coolerS, pop-up canopies, a jet, a giant scale airplane, a couple or 3 helicopters, and all of the support equipment, on the bike..........

Just hope the body shop has some of the original paint left. If you cry enough he may feel sorry for you and cut you a deal.:crying:

I am not certain, but I think the "C" is for the republic of California.

Your right, they changed since I last looked. (That's my story and I'm sticking to it) So much the better, it means that you can buy an owners manual for $20. At least with my scanner it would take days to scan 170 pages, and then the file might be to big to post.

This was my thought a;so, there is a lot more damaged plastic than just where it cracked. you may have to reinforce from the back side to hold the shape and then remove a wide strip of the damaged plastic and replace it. If you just glue it back together the glue joint may hold but it will break again right next to the joint. Then there is the question of why did the brake fluid leak? Was it something you did or something the painter did?

If you feel you really need something to help hold the screws in, Loctite does make a formulation specifically for plastics. ( I dont remember the number off hand) It also is a low strength for metal screws. The other thing that works well is RTV on the threads.

The $20 print on demand is only for the service manual. The service manuals are already available here in elec format. The owners manual is a hard copy only.

Aye us spiel choker sews aye newer hast mistook.

Another idea is to go to http://www.yamahapubs.com/ and just buy a brand new owners manual for your 86, they claim to have it in stock. I had to do Ebay cuz they do mot have the owners manual for my 88 in stock, even though the only difference is probably the cover.

Yup the manual for my 88 is 172 pages, I was going to scan it but figured I would wait till someone that needed it was willing to come and help. It took a log time but I finally got mine from ebay when no one with unlimited cash bid on it.

I don't think I would ride with that group. Their "rules" require a higher danger level than I am comfortable with. I know of one biker that was seriously inured and lost his wife due to those same type of rules.

Tom you are a much braver man than I am. I am not very daring at all when it comes to eating strange things. But otherwise it sure looks like a great time is being had by all.

:sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: What he said. Loctite will dissolve any ABS (and many other plastics) that is even near it.

Glad your feeling better. It is better to not have your ac set to super cold in this weather. The thermal shock of drastic temp changes can get you to. Even though it will be over 100° with dew point in the high 70s on the way home tonight I will only cool the truck to about 80° to avoid the big thermal shock. At a place I used to work I had to run back and forth between 2 environmental chambers where we were testing HVAC equipment. One room was at 150°F with 98% humidity and the one next door was at -40° with 10% humidity. I could only do a couple of laps per day and I was wasted. I was young back then and in great physical shape. (Ah the good old days.......) That is a 190° temp swing on the body in less than 30 seconds. and it drained me in a big hurry. I have issues with cooling myself, I get a mild heat stroke a couple of times a year, but I do know the very early symptoms and just what to do about it to keep it from becoming dangerous. In this weather I am taking the cage to work, it is to hot for me to risk driving the bike.

Add me to the list of those looking to find that Yami engineer that desperately needs my size 13 planted where the sun don't shine. So I read up all of the info I could find about changing the diodes in the TCI. I acquired a bunch of diodes for the job. Got all of the necessary tools ready. And dive in head first. There were some threads that made it sound like it would be not to bad to get the TCI out. I started with the suggestion that it can be done from the bottom without having to remove the air box, so that is where I went first. It should have been an ommen but the very first screw that I touched to remove the lower air scoop the hex hole stripped out, kind of my own fault, the last time I had that piece off to do an oil change I noted that the holes were very rusted and not much hex was left. Not a big deal, grab the Dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a slot for a flat blade screw driver. I took off the rest of the recommended parts to gain access to the TCI and sure enough, there it was starring at me. I thought Cool this ain't so bad. YEA RIGHT! I grab my Phillips bit and a ratchet to get the screws out, only to find out that someone must have been after the TCI once before, the screws were completely rounded out. By using the trick of putting some grinding compound on the tip of the bit to get extra traction I was able to get out the screw on the right side of the bike. The left screw just was not going to come out no matter what tricks I tried, none of which is helped by the fact that you can not even see the screw head. Enter plan 2; So since I can not get to that screw from the bottom I go ahead and pull out the air box. Cool now I can see more of the TCI but still can not get to that last screw. Enter plan 3; Grab a hack saw blade and go ahead and cut off the tab from the side of the TCI, (ain't NO way I am mounting it back up in that god awful place anyhow) Now that the TCI is out I'm off to the house and back into the A/C to do the diode swap. I took out the screws to reveal the bottom of the PCB. then take out the screws to release the PCB from the other half of the case and once again grab my trusty Dremel and make the cut to get the case open. Low and behold there are the diodes. every thing in the TCI looks like bran new, I was expecting to see the big globs of corrosion around the diodes like others have posted, but no these are clean and shiny looking like bran new. This got me to thinking, I wonder if the PO had the TCI replaced at some point before I got the bike and that is why the screws were stripped out. So I pondered this for a few minutes, should I just put it back together or doe the diode swap while I am in there???????? I finally decided to do the swap and was able to do the whole job without lifting any pads. I cleaned the board of all flux and other residue and reapplied a conformal coating to protect the circuits from moisture. I did notice that once I got the cover to the TCI off that there was a small puddle of water inside of the TCI!!!! I had washed the bike two days earlier. So I put a bead of sealant all around the perimeter of the case and sealed up the new seam that I created and sealed up the 2 small holes that Yami put there for no purpose other than to allow water in. Now time to put it all back together. First thing was to plug in the TCI and make sure that the bike still runs, WooHoo, it started right up and all 4 pipes got hot. So per the ideas posted here I cut a hole thru the inside of the faring and pulled the wire harness for the TCI thru the hole. It is plenty long to reach. then I got out some splices and heat shrink to repair the white with green stripe wire that I managed to cut thru while making the hole in the faring. oopie! I used some Velcro strips to attach the TCI to the inside of the faring. While I was in there I cleaned out all of the mouse droppings and nut and seed shells that the mice had left there for me. WTF the dang mouse was still in there. Well at least it is dead, that explains the "aromas" that I had been noticing when sitting a red lights. Got that mess all cleaned up, the rest of the reassembly went quite quickly and uneventfully. Once more start it up to make sure everything still works and Yippee, it does. So at least I don't have to worry about this issue for another 24 years. Now if it will just cool off enough so that I can take it for a ride. OK Rant over...... Back to you regularly scheduled programing.

Between everyone being on vacation and it being just to hot to do anything outside...........

Something don't smell rite here. 16-17V is a very high charge level and it will do damage to most things that are made to run on 13.8-14.2. You will have shorter bulb and most everything else life. If the bike came with a 6 cell lead acid battery, that is to much voltage. Lead acid is 2V per cell X 6 cells is 12V, and the proper charge voltage for that is 14V I would reread that section of the manual that said to adjust to 16-17V, That just don't sound right.

Thanks Now I know why the google thing is there.

I suppose you are used to this time of year being winter. Glad your having fun meeting all of us lunatics.

Glad you got er done. I wish I was just a little closer.

Is it possible to have the search feature recognize at least some common TLAs (Three Letter Acronyms). It is real hard to find info on things like HID, CMU, TCI, RLU etc.

Next time turn the GPS off when you take it on an airplane........ Or the handling is not as good as you think since it went off a high cliff.......

Even though you are going from 5 wire to 5 wire I would still consider using a converter/isolator. As you noted the wiring on the bike is very small, the converter/isolator pulls power from the battery for the trailer lights. This way it does not mess with the bikes systems and any electrical failure on the trailer will not take out the bikes fragile electrical systems.

If the harleys were there, that means that all of the Venture riders were already there, ate their fill, and left..........

The best tire pressure will most likely be none of the above. The tire pressures listed in the owners manual are for the recommended tire. If you look at the recommended tires MAX COLD pressure, it will be higher than what the owners manual recommends. The same thing occurs on most anything with tires. When you make changes from the factory equipment you are then the tester to determine the proper operating conditions. By running the max pressure you will get slightly better gas mileage but are giving up traction since the tire will be harder so it will have a smaller contact patch with the road. Everything is a comprise. Since the weight that I am carrying on my bike is different than the weight you are carrying on your bike, even if we have the same tires, the ideal pressure will be different.