Flyinfool

Since the brake lights do not come on with either the front or rear brake, the obvious place to start is......... 1. Is the fuse good? Is it a glass fuse? 2. are the bulbs good? Does the brake light indicator in the CMU light up along with the red warning light?

PLEASE????? PICS we need lots of pics of everything for those poor unfortunate souls that could not make it. Pretty please with sugar on top.

Well after a very wild and hectic day with a lot of up and downs, it was finally determined that Erika has a congenital heart defect that does not need treatment other than pills forever. Much better than when they said she had a blockage of the "Widow Maker". We are home now. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers.

We spent the last 2 days at hospitals. Erika in cardiac surgery right now to find the real problem. I hope to know more in about 3 hours.

The 88 does have linked brakes, and the 88 does have the bleeder up at the steering head to get the air out of the top of that line. IF there was air in the system when you added the fluid, then you need to bleed the front left caliper and the line the runs to it. As for the brake lights, that is a whole separate issue. Does the brake light come on with the front brake?

In the USA, every gas pump and ATM still use the mag strip. Most stores use the chip. Neither is more secure than the other. The chip helped for the first month it was out, it took the crooks that long to modify their equipment to hack the chip. Now some experts say the chip is even easier to hack. The crooks can read the chip from several feet away. So your card can be stolen just by walking past the crook on the sidewalk. The mag strip at least has to be swiped to be read.

Bambi KNOWS better than to mess with my maters. Remember last year I was a cripple and could not mess with the garden. this year I am in much better shape so far.

Takes one to know one. Good think I don't know any.........

Some one may have completely removed the sensor and the wire. You may have to go into the dash to find the end of the white/red wire to add the resistor to make the flashing red light go off.

I have some good medicine for flower. Just a little pill taken at around 1000 FPS.

Plant the deer bones to hide the evidence and see if you can grow more deer?

Welcome to my world. Back 10 years ago when I joined this site I was repeatedly told that there is no such thing as a non Royal '88. It took a lot of convincing to prove that I was riding one regardless of whether it exists or not. Mine is also a Cali version with the canister. You are the first other person that I have heard of that also has a non Royal 88.

NOPE 1. that is a very thick coating formulated for concrete. 2. Most garages have a roof and 4 walls so it gets very little direct sunlight so it does not need much UV stabilizers. It will likely fade on a bike. 3. It is not made to go on smooth and glossy, smooth and glossy is bad for a garage floor, makes it very slippery and dangerous. I do not think it would look good on a bike. 4. it only has a 2 star rating from those that have used it. On the other hand, it should make for a very durable scratch resistant finish, IF it will stick to the bike.

You do not have an option for "I know all about skimmers but use pay at the pump anyhow." As mentioned I will never use my debit card at a pump. Some places will freeze $50-$75 of your money to be sure that there is sufficient funds to cover the purchase. On a bike trip where you stop many times in one day, you could have many hundreds of dollars frozen in your checking and end up bouncing checks until the freezes thaw out in a few days. If a debit card is stolen it is harder to get the money back and the money will remain unavailable until the whole thing is sorted out in a few day up to a month. With a CC the card company is out the funds until they get it sorted out. My debit card is only used to get cash from the ATM that is located inside of my bank at what was once one of the teller windows Hard to add a skimmer when there is a teller 3 feet away and a big obvious camera pointed right at the ATM. And you know that banks do not ever have fake cameras. With current skimming tech, just like it says in the vids above, there is absolutely no way to tell that there is a skimmer in a gas pump. I go to reputable brand name stations and always try to use the pump closed to the cashier, as that is the least likely one to get a skimmer installed. Something I never saw mentioned, just how hard would it be to add a micro-switch that would set off an alarm at the cashier when the pump is opened to install the skimmer. That would make it real hard to get in there to install a skimmer and it would give the attendant time to get a plate number and call the Police. I saw in the vid that some stations added a hasp and a padlock using one of the easiest locks to open that there is, and the screw heads were exposed so it would only take a screwdriver to remove the screws. For an electric screwdriver you are talking seconds to pull 4 screws. The crooks are getting smarter and smarter, FAST, I think the crooks are getting smarter faster than the banks are getting smarter. The banks are playing catch up, they seem to wait for the next breach and them come up with a counter measure, instead of finding possible breaches and plugging the hole before the leak happens. I hate SCAMMERS............ OK I'll shut up now. Back to my corner before I end up on double, quadruple, triple probation......

I would bet that is at least part of the problem. That remote has to be on all the time so it can see the signal if it is ever sent, that will require some power. I don't know if the battery dying after sitting for a couple of weeks in normal for a Slingshot, but it should not be normal for any vehicle of any type. My bikes, cars and trucks can all sit completely ignored for months and will fire rite up when asked to. Connect up an amp meter and start pulling fuses to see which one(s) drop the amps down. Don't forget to pull any inline fuses for any add-ons. I bet you can get someone to do this this coming weekend.........

As I mentioned above, there is an error in the wiring diagram, If you switch the labels for the reserve lighting indicator (white) and the Hi beam indicator (blue) then all will be good.

Factory setup?? Yamaha, and all motorcycle manufacturers for that matter, specifically state that there is no towing with a bike. I never heard of a factory hitch for any bike. But then there are a lot of things I never heard of that do exist. Pics please.

http://www.cyclematetrailers.com/page/page/2863908.htm http://www.customcruiserchrome.com/product/53 Ebay often has hitches from bikes being parted out. You have to watch close to be sure that it is a complete hitch, Some sellers will split the hitch into parts so you end up making several buys to get all the parts.

The reason the blue and white lights get switched is due to an error in the wiring diagrams. the original instructions were created from the wiring diagrams before one was actually done. I have to go back and look to see which 2 wires need to be switched at the RLU connector. The other option is to switch the sockets in the dash so that the white is behind the blue lens, then your bike will match the wiring diagram.

IF the dealer sent in the amount that was in the contract, then HDFS should/will be sending out a check for the over payment less the extra 10 days of interest.

Do some testing first See if there is power going to the TCI on the red/white wire while there is no spark. Also check the black/white wire at the TCI to be sure it is not connected to ground. There are a number of safety circuits on the bike that could turn off the ignition via these 2 wires. The TCI could be fine and something else could be the problem. The only way to test a TCI is to swap with a known good one.

This site has the service and owners manuals in the technical library. When you say the bike will not start, is it cranking but not firing, or is it not cranking at all?

:fingers-crossed-emoFingers crossed that this was an "honest" mistake. Even though it sounds more like the frying pan was starting to get to hot for them. Either way,I hope it all gets fixed quickly.

A cracked coil does not sound like the culprit, the odds of all 4 coils going in and out at the same time and temps is really high. These bikes run pretty good on 3 cylinders. I would believe more along the lines of a bad connector or a bad solder joint on a PC board, like maybe the TCI. You will need to do some testing while it is not working to track the culprit down. All the testing in the world while it is running will not tell you why it sometimes does not run.

Attach a battery powered Carbon Monoxide monitor to the back of you trunk and go for a ride. Then you will know if exhaust is getting there or not. Then repeat the test with the dog crate and no dog. Then make the monitor a permanent part of the crate to monitor all the time while riding with the dog. Do this same testing with a thermometer back there. The next thing to consider is the amount of bouncing that happens back there. The trunk location would not be a pleasant place to ride, all road bumps will be amplified by the geometry of the bike. The back of the bubble behind the fairing may collect engine heat, and if you have put on louder pipes it will be really loud back there.