Flyinfool
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Posts
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Everything posted by Flyinfool
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Are you sure you turned it far enough. You have to turn it till it stops and then push down on it and turn it a little more before the remove notches line up. If it is the rubber seal that has gotten stuck you can loosen the cap and start the bike and just let it idle till it gets up to temp, the pressure should pop it loose. BUT BE VERY CAREFUL TO HAVE A RAG SECURED OVER IT AND STAY AWAY FROM THAT SIDE OF THE BIKE IN CASE IT LETS GO SUDDENLY WITH BOILING HOT ANTIFREEZE GOING EVERYWHERE. Have a hose ready to clean things up after just in case. -
Well if you do drive up here to get it, you will have to go almost right past my house. Let me know and we can turn it into a M&E. I have a camper you can use in case you will need some place to live for a few days for the Warden to cool off before you get back home with a new toy. I have donated vehicles to Rawhide in the past. They seem to be a good place for the kids they help.
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Do we have any professionals in the Safe Business?
Flyinfool replied to ragtop69gs's topic in Watering Hole
+1 for LEDs and batteries. Another issue is that many safes are specifically designed to resist drilling a hole. On others they will be permanently damaged by drilling a hole, some have a layer that is a water jacket to resist a cutting torch. to drill a hole would damage/drain the water jacket or allow air in to start rust formation. If there is a soft door gasket you may be able to use a ribbon wire right thru the normal door opening. Is there a specific reason why they want 110VAC power in there? -
Speaking of your friends with Ventures, are they members here yet? They should be.
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89 Venture - Mileage life span
Flyinfool replied to KIC's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
While you now know that 65K is nothing to worry about you can still act worried to get the price down some. -
See I told you Tom would like this........
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Not knowing what you have had before, you can not ride this like a V twin, it likes to cruise around 4K rpm, and is not afraid of the red line while accelerating. When you get out on the highway at around 55 in 4th or 5th gear, crack the throttle wide open to see if the clutch is slipping. A slipping clutch is common on these and is a cheap and easy fix. It just needs a new spring unless it has been slipping for a long time, then it may need a whole new clutch. Another known issue is the starter clutch going bad. Sounds like someone with a hammer is inside the engine trying to get out while cranking the engine. Yes we have a permanent fix for that to. And if you get it you must post pics. If there are no pics than it didn't happen or doesn't exist. That's just the rules here .......
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I smoked a lot of things in my younger days, but never a brisket. How many papers does it take to wrap around a brisket and how do you keep it lit?....................
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Starting Problems
Flyinfool replied to uthpda's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
If you do determine that it is a bad flasher module I would like to get your old bad module to experiment with to find a way to have proper working LED turn signals AND retain the self canceling AND not need load resistors. I'll pay for the postage. Then I just have hope that it is at least similar to the flasher module on my '88. -
With all of the snow that we have gotten here in WI this year, NONE, ZERO, ZIP, NADA, I'm still ridin. I will keep ridin till the first salting of the roads. ANd even better news, the city I live in has adopted to not have a bare pavement policy, this means that they will use as little salt as possible. They claim that this is because all of the storm sewers drain directly into the lake and they do not want the lake to turn into a salt water lake.
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Also you need to check your local police policies. The city of Milwaukee got so fed up with false alarms from the monitoring companies that they will no longer respond to ANY alarm until it has been verified by a human on site that there has been a break-in. This means that the security company has to call you first to verify the break-in and if you do not answer then they have to have someone drive over to your house to verify the break-in BEFORE the police will do anything. This renders the monitoring all but useless. On the police side they claimed that 90 something percent of the security calls were false alarms and it was keeping cops from real problems. I agree that deterrence is far better than waiting till they are already in. Obvious cameras, a loud alarm, Outside lights with motion detectors, will make them go next door or down the block to an easier target. A big dog that has a known record of going thru the front window to get at the bad guy before he even tries to get in helps to. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57090
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Big Tom aint gonna like this............
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yup, start on the Clifford website to see if you can download the manual and try reprogramming your remote. You will need the manual for programing a new remote anyhow.
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I'm sorry.........
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Ni-Cad cells are 1.2 V each, so there will be 15 cells in an 18V pack. Yes each cell has a + and a -. You do not need a welder. Just use jumper cables to your car battery as the power source. Use your volt meter to find which cells are bad and only zap the bad ones. You do not have to break up the welded connections between cells.
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12V will not zap an 18V battery. But if you take the 18V battery apart, you can find and zap he individual cells with your 12V charger.
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It does not have to be a welder, it can be any power source that is capable of lots of amps at a voltage that is much higher than the pack you are trying to zap. That welder was probably at around 35V and had the ability to deliver 100+ amps into that 12v ni-cad battery. I have used a car battery to zap single cells. A common failure mode for Ni-Cad is an internal short between the + and - plates, The high power zap hits that internal short and vaporizes it.
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No fair editing while I am still typing the reply........
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Believe it or not this is the short version. Lithium cells have a working voltage range of 4.2 to 3.0 V per cell. If you charge to more than 4.2V per cell you just permanently destroyed the cell. Precautions for this are built into every charger so this is not much of an issue. However if you ever discharge the cell to less than 3.0V per cell you will also do permanent damage to the cell. Many devices also have precautions for this built in where they will shut themselves off if they get close to that 3.0V point. But there are also many devices that do not have this built in protection. If you run till there is a noticeable loss of power you are probably over the edge. When you are going to store (anything more than a couple of weeks of non use) a lithium battery, they want to be stored at 50% charge. If stored at full or minimum charge they will start to lose capacity. It is this feature that makes them not real well suited for powering things that are only used occasionally. Most chargers do not have a storage charge mode. Some advantages of lithium are that they have a very low self discharge rate so if left charged they are more likely to still have some power when you need it. But as mentioned above storing them with a full charge will degrade their performance. Ni-Cad cells have super low internal resistance so they are able to put out tremendous amounts of current for a short time. This makes the well suited for things that have high spike current demands. You can run a Ni-cad down to nothing and not damage the cells In fact I store my Ni-Cads with a resistor attached across the terminals to hold them at zero volts so that they are always ready to charge and go. Ni-Cad cells will live thru a lot more charge discharge cycles than will lithium. Cadmium is well know to be bad for the environment, most people do not yet understand how bad lithium is for the environment. There is more reason than just cost why there are few if any lithium batteries being manufactured in the USA. They are made in other countries with looser environmental laws. Most lithium cells come from China. It's the same reasons there are few, if any Ni-cad made in the USA. With its big lithium batteries a Toyota Prius has a more negative environmental impact of its full life than a Chevy Tahoe even with all of the extra gas the Tahoe will burn. It is the impact of the manufacture and disposal of the lithium batteries at beginning and end of life that that makes the Tahoe more environmentally friendly than a Prius. But then when they are being used regularly and correctly, lithium batteries work great and do have there places.
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The more that I use and learn about lithium's the better I like Ni-Cad. There are things that can be done with lithium's that can not be done with Ni-Cad but as a reliable power source Ni-Cad wins hands down over lithium.
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I agree that this is just a CD with instructions that will most likely involve equipment that the average user will not have available. The CD may even just be a hook to try to get you to go back and buy some equipment from them. The equipment that you will need to TRY to save a pack may cost more than a new pack. It just sounds to much like a scam to me.
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Need more info. Maybe a link? There are ways to "zap" a nicad that can fix SOME problems.
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One of these days I need to get me a passport........
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:eek: :eek: :eek:
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It is hard enough to convince most people to spend a couple of hundred on a decent helmet. It will be tough road to convince them to part with $8k for an inflatable driving suit. But time and technology should bring that cost way down pretty quick.