Flyinfool

Many of the aftermarket stators are wound for a bit more output power, to do this it takes more turns of wire in each coil, in order to get the room for more turns of wire in each coil they use wire with thinner insulation. So the insulation does wear out or burn thru quicker. Modern wire insulation is stronger than the stuff from 30 years ago so they put it on even thinner yet. Where I work we have noticed it with electric motor windings also, they just do not hold up like they used to.

Very nice ike. some times it just is to good to be true but really is true.

To torque something that you can only get an open end onto you need to use a crows foot on the torque wrench. If the crows foot is at 90° to the torque wrench you will still get an accurate reading.

Some play is normal. While you had it up on jack stands, did you try putting it in gear? With it in gear you can use the rear brake to put some load on the engine. Does the front wheel spin free? Starting with a cold engine, start it and keep checking the headers to see if the all heat up at the same rate. You may be running on 3 cylinders.

These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders. When on 3 cyl the HP will be down a bit but usually the gas mileage is also down a bit. Do the temp test on the headers to see if they are all coming up to temp at the same rate.

It does not sound like a clutch issue. Clutch issue would be the opposite of what you described. Does it move freely if you push it? From your description it sounds more like something in the drive train or brakes is binding and not turning freely. Or I am misunderstanding what you are saying.

It is not real hard to get back there. Pull the headlight and the windshield and then the dash cover is right there. Pull the cover and it is all right there in front of you. you do not have to pull the fairings. The dash is held in with 4 nuts from the underside. There are 2 connectors and the speedo cable that plug into the back of it.

Be careful, many CL adds that are to good to be true are just bait. They know that you will show up to look at it with a pocket full of cash that they wish to make theirs.

Nice The barter is still alive and well. I once got a NIB Remington 700 SS in 7mm Rem Mag as down payment on a boat that I paid $200 for. It was only a few hours out of the gun store when his wife saw it and it had to go NOW. The gun shop would only give him half of what he paid 2 hours earlier.

A disconnected wire will never drain a battery. When you go back to post 2 and disconnect the battery cable, a spark means there is a fairly large drain, while that battery cable is disconnected, connect an Amp meter between the cable and the terminal. Let us know what that reads, that will tell us where to point you next.

I still want to build this some day to have real train horns on my bike. The train horns that I have on my truck work REALLY well. This will plug into my 1 - 1/4 inch receiver hitch, and has tie downs to also be used to carry a cooler for day trips. It contains the 4 trumpets, air compressor, tank and all valves and plumbing for the system. In a pinch the air supply can be used to air up the tires on the bike. I will also have a mini reciever to be able to attach this to the tongue of my trailer to give me a place for the cooler and a good horn. The interesting thing with horns is the dB ratings, they are mostly all such BS. Most hons just give a dB rating and no other info. A dB rating without a distance is meaningless. Most car and bike horns that do give a distance have it well hidden because it is usually 4 inches. If someone is just 4 inches from the horn it is pretty much to late. When working with sound it is a logarithmic scale. This means that for every change of 3 dB you have doubled or halved the sound pressure level. The way sound travels thru air, every time you double the distance you loose 3 dB, or half of the volume. So if you are starting out at 120 dB at 4 inches, then you will have 117 dB at 8 inches. 114 at 16", and so on to get down to 99 dB (about 1/8 of the rated volume) at just 14 yards, Most people can yell at 100 dB and 14 yards is not very far away at driving speed. A train horn by federal specification must do 120 dB at 100 yards. That is LOUD. I used to work for a place that made parts for locomotives and the horns was one of our products. The test room was real interesting with a dozen train horns all blasting away at the same time. No one could possible survive in that room with the horns all blasting. There were many safeties in place to protect from the noise.

Lower wattage bulbs are LESS bright. The last thing I want to do is reduce visibility on my bike. I made all of my lights brighter.

Last I heard from him he was in Columbia MO and was expecting to be there a couple days to wait out some bad weather. But that was last Sat. We had a good visit with him as he passed thru, He was not prepaired to get this close to the WWW and nearly froze.

Ouch! Glad you found that, it could have got real ugly real fast.

1157 defines the shape of the base. The "A" is for amber. The LL is for Long Life, this is often done by lowering the wattage of the bulb, a bulb that uses less power will cause the turn signal to flash faster.

Most covers are not designed to withstand that much wind. Remember if you are driving interstate speeds into a headwind the a actual airspeed could be over 100 MPH, That will destroy most covers. If the cover fails the flapping shreds will beat the paint off anywhere they touch. A tarp would be near impossible to wrap tight enough to be sure it would not flap in the wind. Your best bet is either an enclosed trailer or a good wash when you get there. It should not get any dirtier than if you had rode it there, maybe even less dirty since the tow vehicle will eat some of the stones and bugs.

Yes that air tube to the front forks (and rear if it is also disconnected) should be sealed. As the forks move up and down there is air pumping in and out thru that tube if it is open. This can be sucking in moisture and debris. Also the air space that is in the tubes acts like a spring as it compresses. If the tube is open then you are running with a much lower spring rate than you should be. This could be partly why you bottomed out the front end.

Is the wire that is attached to a white with red stripe? If so then it is the battery sensor. We can explain how it works and how to fix it if that is what it is.

Thank you so very much. I would have much rather been there than where I was.

If the CMU is not lighting up to say the brake light is out, that means that there is no power getting that far. Glass fuses are notorious for causing issues. Check for power in the wires on both sides of the glass fuse.

Check the grounds. Clean them even if they look clean.

That looks like border line having stole one. Now the fun starts.

How long ago did you place the add? The ads do time out and disappear after a certain amount of time. I think it is about a month but I am not certain.

A nick in the fork tube that is to small to see or feel is still enough to take out a seal. Slide something like a woman's nylon stocking (DON'T tell the wife what you are doing with her stockings) over the tubes it will catch on the microscopic nicks to let you know they are there.

If travel to Wisconsin is no issue then I have an '88 that is just about good to go. (I just have to put the clear coat on some new parts) If it were not for health issues, I would have been on it traveling across 4 states to MD right now.