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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. You can always plan to put in the step and stilll build block or stick over it ifs that's the route you end up
  2. Saw $3.999 here in SE WI on my way into work this morning.
  3. See there ya go again, trying to catch up to a 1st gen......... Oppie, couldn't stop my fingers........
  4. The insurance carried is liability and some have theft insurance. Getting crash insurance on a RC aircraft would be like getting full coverage on a NASCAR. It ain't gonna happen. When you fly RC you have to expect that any flight could be the aircraft's last. Crash yes, to burn is very rare, but does happen. There are YouTube vids of RC going up in smoke. Those are painful to watch, there is usually literally nothing left salvageable. That is an interesting Vid.
  5. As long as you have not been slipping it a lot, odds are that the clutch is fine and just the spring is weak and needs to be replaced. This is a common thing on these bikes. The only way to know for sure is to take it apart and measure the thickness of the clutch pates, 3mm (.118 inch) is new and 2.8mm (.110 inch) is worn out. The steel plates should be good unless they are discolored from heat. If the clutch is still good then all you need is the upgraded spring and a gasket and an hour of your time. The second time you do one it will only take a half hour.
  6. I still find the whole contractor thing out by you baffling. Around here if word gets out you need a job done, the contractors will be lined up at the front door and down the street, maybe even fighting with each other for a better place in line, waiting for their chance to give a quote.
  7. OK, here are the instructions to with the diagram that I posted above. From Radio Shack you will need; 1 pack of diodes P/N 276-1661 (4 pack) $2.69 1 pack of 330 ohm resistors P/N 271-1113 (5 pack) $1.19 You will also need some wire #16 or 18 AWG (Preferably at least 2 colors) and some heat shrink tubing. This is enough parts to make 2 assemblies. Take 2 of the diodes and notice that one end is marked with a colored band. Twist the leads of both colored ends together and solder. Add a piece of wire to this twisted end and solder. Twist one lead of a resistor to the free end of one of the diodes and solder. Attach a wire to the other lead of the resistor and solder. Attach a different color of wire to the free end of the remaining diode and solder. Slide a piece of heat shrink over the resistor and diode long enough to cover the solder joints. Slide a piece of heat shrink over the other diode and its solder joints. Shrink both of these down. Slide another piece of heat shrink over the remaining wire connection and overlap the now covered diodes and resistor and shrink down. You now have the same thing that you can buy already done. The end with the single wire goes to the positive lead of the LED brake light. The lead with the resistor goes to the running lights circuit. The lead with just a diode (the one you put a different color wire on) goes to the brake light circuit. The negative side of the LED brake light goes to ground just like normal. SEE, Be careful what you ask for.........
  8. But some of us don't do facebook......
  9. I thought maybe you would think of contractor and head for the punching bags.
  10. Does it have to be full size as in many carrying or can it be a flying model?
  11. Your best bet might just be a pile of lumber, a place to park a bunch of bikes, and a pile of nicely browned flesh.
  12. Is it maybe a Torx screw.? If you are lucky an allen will grab it. Just a WAG here.
  13. troublemaker..........:mo money: Erika gonna git you for this:duck:
  14. I attached the diagram to my previous post, all of the parts are from anyplace like Radio shack. The shipping and the envelope is more expensive than the parts.
  15. That little wire is just 2 diodes and 1 resistor. super simple to make. Super cheep to make.
  16. Oh well, I tried. Trading emails is what I have been doing. Thanks
  17. You still need to go back and do the tests I explained, while it is misbehaving to determine witch direction to start looking. If it was a short it would blow a fuse instantly, so you can rule that out.
  18. Is there a way to have attachments in a PM just like we Have in the forums? There have been a number of times that I wanted to sends pics back and forth in a PM but had to take the conversation to another site to have pics. At least this time I do not think the answer will be to use Google search......
  19. There is one review on that site and he says he wished he had not done it, not enough light on the road. Do you want to look cool when parked or do you want to see where you are going at night? Now if you can get some removable lens covers to tint, then you could have the best of both worlds. Or just go back to a 1st gen so everyone is not looking at the front of the bike...... Sorry, someone had to do it.
  20. Noooooooo........ You will let the magic blue smoke out of your meter. You must set VM to any range 12Vdc or HIGHER. I always start at the symptom. In this it means the lights that are not lighting. Check the two wires at the light. Connect your meter from the battery positive to each of the wires, one at a time, One of them should show 12V. Then connect your meter from battery negative to the other wire. it should show 12V. If either of these tests do not work then you at least know which side of the bulb the problem is on. Dumb question part, but it is required just because none mentioned it yet. Did you check to be sure the bulbs are not burned out?
  21. News??? This thread is 3/4 of a year old already...........
  22. Is this a one size fits all?
  23. I hope you feel better soon Dano. Donation sent. It is not a lot but at least I can afford to help some. Now to figure out how to get the trailer to Wisconsin.........
  24. Take a ride up here, lots of good butcher shops around. or My uncle owns a farm, he raises beef cattle, sheep and pigs. He would love to sell you one or more. dead or alive or even butchered, wrapped and frozen.
  25. So You are saying I need to pull the carbs and do a rebuild? Or can the float needles be replaced while on the bike? Do you have a kit for this? Floor is concrete, there are no drip marks or stains under the bike. I did have reduced gas mileage at the end of last year along with slightly harder starting and a slight miss. I was hoping that a new set of spark plugs and a sync would make it better. I do have a set of carb diaphragms just cuz I have no idea how old these are. I hate working on carbs. Too much smoke and mirrors going on with all of the different circuits.
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