Flyinfool

OUCH!! Is that a window in the engine????

CAKE???? Someone mention CAKE??? I want some cake toooooo, and maybe some ice cream to put on top of it.........

I was already in bed getting my beauty sleep, I need lots of beauty sleep...........

I guess I have never understood the whole check valve thing to prevent fuel flow from the tank to the carbs? Or is it just a terminology misuse that has me baffled. A check vale is a valve that only will allow flow in one direction and block the flow in the opposite direction. If you have a check valve that blocks flow from the tank to the carbs, then how do you get fuel flow from the tank to the carbs? I can see there being a check valve for applications where the tank is below the carb and you do not want fuel to siphon backwards draining the carbs and or the fuel lines back into the tank. EDIT: Ahh, I found my own answer, It is not the "check valve" in the pump that you need, it is the "positive shut off" feature that you need. The pump that @bongobobny called out has both valves in it. The positive shut off will close a valve in the pump when it is not running to block flow in any direction. The check valve as I theorized is only to prevent back flow and/or maintain pressure while the pump is off, and has nothing to do with preventing hydro lock when the bike is off. There are pumps with and with out check valves and with and with out positive shut off valves and with both types of valves. It is just the engineer in me that has to try to understand the how and why of everything I see. On the first gen this is not an issue because most of the tank is below the carbs, so it can not siphon or drain into the engine, but would benefit from a check valve to prevent the lines from draining back to the tank every time the pump shuts off. Maybe this is where the "check valve" requirement started from.

If you are going to go as far as replacing the valve springs, Is the V-Max cam a drop in? I know that the heads do not swap out, but do the cams swap? As long as you are there? As for the cruise dropping out with a good gust, If the pivot for your clutch lever is worn it can let the clutch lever move enough to open the switch that turns off the cruise. Having leather wraps or tassels will make it worse since they add wind resistance to push harder on the lever. This is easy to test, when you see a truck coming hold the cruise lever forward with your finger so it can not move and see if that fixes the problem. It is a cheap test that has the advantage of going for a long test ride.

I remember that feeling from when I ordered my first ever new car, Everything was set for 3 months of waiting, but I had no option but to drive my trade in as it was my only other car. That also adds some excitement to the mix. My new one came in and I went to take delivery in a howling blizzard. I was not going to wait one more day. I hope your wait ends soon....... My fingers are crossed for the red one. The red is drop dead gorgeous.

I had a bad sway experience before I even knew that there was a proper way to load a trailer. I had a big all steel trailer for hauling my 69 Pontiac Catalina around. That is not a small car. I was pulling it with a Dodge full size 11 passenger van. I was worried about the tongue weight, so I loaded the car to give me about 50 lbs of tongue weight. I could easily lift the tongue of the loaded trailer onto the ball with one hand. You can guess what happened the first time I got up to around 40 mph...... It swayed so hard that the trailer and the van were both going up on 2 wheels each, real close to the point of going over. I had no clue what the proper response was so I just took my foot off the gas and hung on tight to the steering wheel until it slowed down enough to track straight again. then I had to stop and clean my shorts........ All that tongue weight and proper geometry stuff really does matter when towing. That original pic at first glace does look like the bike is way to far forward. But looking closer the bike is not as far forward as it looks. If you hold a straight edge up to the picture to show where the axle really is, the Axel is just behind the center of the bike, about right where it should be. This is probably why the trailer towed just fine.

:confused24:OK Back to the topic at hand. I was bored so I pulled out my trusty calculator. On a first gen some tire data for the front tire running at 80 MPH; Size - MR90-18 Outside diameter - 26.4" RPM - 1034.262 RPS - 17.268 Centrifugal force at the tire surface - 394.662 Gs And the rear tire at 80 MPH; Size - MU90B16 Outside Diameter - 25.72 RPM - 1075.633 RPS - 17.927 Centrifugal force at tire surface - 410.448Gs It is the Centrifugal force that is most interesting. At about 400 Gs that means that for every pound of tire there is 400 lbs of force trying to tear that tire apart just from the RPM and not even considering the loads on the tire. Unfortunately Dunlop does not list the weight of a tire in their specs so the actual force can not be calculated. But just using a WAG of 20 lbs would put it at ~8000 lbs of force trying to tear that tire apart. I wonder if your tire could have a weak spot in the inner cords that is allowing the tire to stretch in a spot as the RPMs come up creating a slight bulge, or out of round, that disappears as the speeds drop back down???? :confused24: Now if this were the case, not only would the tire be a bigger diameter at that point which can create a vibration, but the weight of the tire being farther from the axel will give it a higher effective weight, contributing to the vibration. AND would also create a deformity in the inner surface of the tire which would have higher Gs and attract all of the balancing beads, further adding to the imbalance vibration. Again I am not a tire expert and this is all just a WAG (Wild Ass Guess) on my part.

Well I'm waiting....................

Why bother to stop, he knew he was not strong enough to lift it back onto its wheels anyhow.

Looks like you had a lot of fun. It was good to meet up with you. Erika and I enjoyed it. It is OK, you can tell @cowpuc about the prototype 50° snow I was messing with. Sorry it made your ride to the hotel room a bit chilly, I forget that people that live in a blast furnace are not used to what Wisconsin people call nice weather. Puc has tasked me to come up with 60° snow. Still working on that formula.

To little tongue weight will cause a dangerous sway. I have never heard of to much tongue weight causing any issue other than exceeding the weight limits of the hitch and/or suspension of the tow vehicle or of the tongue itself. I have had a load shift once when the tie down chain broke and 3650 lbs moved 5 feet forward and went from a 500 lb tongue to well over 1000 lbs on the tongue, all it did was to squat the back of the truck but it still handled fine at freeway speed. I can see where it probably took some weight off the front wheels when that happened. But I was not needing to make any sudden steering inputs so I did not notice an issue there either. I am sure I would have broke something in the rear of the truck before the front wheels would have lost enough traction to become an issue. But the math does say that there was less weight on the front wheels.

Bummer! Got any good pics with the cover off? that might be fixable.

It is in the top bar right about in the middle, it is the tab labeled "VR Chat". just click that and it will open a new window for the chat room. If you go to the very bottom of any page you can see who all is in chat at the moment that opened the page you are on. As mentioned above, someone has to be first to just open chat and wait for someone else to join in. Most phones and many tablets have difficulty with chat, it does work best from a laptop or desktop computer. Phones and tablets will run chat, but the window to type in and read responses is only big enough for a couple of words. It is just very annoying on a small screen.

The wiring diagrams are in this thread, Pick out the one that matches your bike. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

Difficult just makes it a challenge, I LOVE a good challenge.......... At one point last winter there was SNOW on the ground in all 50 states at the same time.........

Did I hear someone mention SNOW?

I usually check in to the chat room at around 8:00 Central time IF I am home. Chat does not work well at all on a phone and barely works on a tablet. best results are on a laptop or desktop computer. The key to getting a chat going is that someone must turn chat on and wait for someone else to pop in. This gets a conversation started that can bring in others that only look to see if there is anyone already in there. I will try to be sure that I am in chat tonight.

It all depends on just what the coating is. If it is a thermally conductive epoxy then it will help the copper to dissipate the heat. If it is a thermal insulator then it will contribute to the coils getting hotter. The other big factor to consider is the breakdown temp of the coating. Stators go bad because the insulation burns off the wire, it is very rare that the actual wire gets hot enough to melt and break.

In the summer we get usable light till around 9:30. But from mid December until mid January I will not see daylight except for the rare case where we should happen to have clear skies on a weekend.

Many of the aftermarket stators are wound for a bit more output power, to do this it takes more turns of wire in each coil, in order to get the room for more turns of wire in each coil they use wire with thinner insulation. So the insulation does wear out or burn thru quicker. Modern wire insulation is stronger than the stuff from 30 years ago so they put it on even thinner yet. Where I work we have noticed it with electric motor windings also, they just do not hold up like they used to.

Very nice ike. some times it just is to good to be true but really is true.

To torque something that you can only get an open end onto you need to use a crows foot on the torque wrench. If the crows foot is at 90° to the torque wrench you will still get an accurate reading.

Some play is normal. While you had it up on jack stands, did you try putting it in gear? With it in gear you can use the rear brake to put some load on the engine. Does the front wheel spin free? Starting with a cold engine, start it and keep checking the headers to see if the all heat up at the same rate. You may be running on 3 cylinders.

These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders. When on 3 cyl the HP will be down a bit but usually the gas mileage is also down a bit. Do the temp test on the headers to see if they are all coming up to temp at the same rate.