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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    A few miles ain't far enough, they could be coming back home. Many critters are good at that. Hit them with a drop of food color on there back to tell if it is the same ones you are catching again.
  2. Flyinfool
    OK the Icons seem to be a mystery here. There is a grey panel just below that flashing red light. When you first turn the key to the run position does a series of icons light-up in that grey window? After they have cycled thru, do any of them remain lit?
  3. Flyinfool
    Dreamer......
  4. Flyinfool
    Did you remind him that that he don't need a bike to come on here? We can pick on him with or without a bike.....
  5. Flyinfool
    I did a winter M&E in march. You could plan a summer one.
  6. Flyinfool
    We can help you find something to "fix".
  7. Flyinfool
    Now come on guys. Yer gonna make me blush..... Just glad I could help.
  8. Flyinfool
    Gettin old???
  9. Flyinfool
    Before you start replacing anything, I would start by cleaning all of the connections. This would include; the 3 wire connector between the stator and RR the connector coming out of the RR the battery terminals the other end of the ground wire. Even if the connections LOOK clean, take them apart and clean them anyhow.
  10. Flyinfool
    Poor Baby..............
  11. Flyinfool
    The Bull Frog Inn may have better bug control, Butt the Pond Monster Motel has better BIG game hunting.......... Or so I have been told.....
  12. Flyinfool
    Electrically the 55W is not an issue. The stock headlight is 60W. I have no clue on the legal issue of 35W vs 55W. But I was thinking of upgrading to the 55W ballast, they claim 40% more light. Now I did notice that my system voltage became more stable while sitting a a red light idling with the brake on. that 25W savings made a big difference in idle voltage. I will also be adding 2 35W HID driving lights. Since I got the HID headlight, I can not even tell when my driving lights are on.
  13. Flyinfool
    Well since you started it......... This Eagle may be smarter than any 1st gen rider, but any first gen rider is still smarter than any 2nd gen rider. Doesn't say much for the 2nd gens.......
  14. Flyinfool
    Is there a manufacture date on the nameplate or the title? That will give you the best idea of just how old they are. I am sure the dealer knows what the model year is, it would have to go on the paperwork for the title. If they are that old, check the date codes on the tires. They may already need new skins. Make him a low ball offer, see just how bad he wants to move them. According to this website http://www.cycle-mate.com/trailers/ the list price on a CM2000 is $1595.00. looks like its the old mark it way up and then give a sale price that is still more than MSRP. Unless of course it has a LOT of accessories that are not visible in the pic.
  15. Flyinfool
    The Shindengen web side describes the SH012 series as "shorting" the stator to achieve regulation. This will allow the RR to remain nice and cool but is not doing the stator any favors. The one I listed achieves regulation by cutting the power from the stator. This means that the RR will run hotter but the stator will run cooler. Ideal would be if someone were to make a switching regulator. It would be expensive and possibly big, but both the RR and the stator would run cool. I have yet to see one available.
  16. Flyinfool
    Thats exactly what I was referring to, The one that you have on your trailer if you are holding the brake and have a turn signal on, half of the light bar will flash. It will only illuminate solid if the brake is on and the turn signals are off. What the OP and myself are after is a true brake light where you will need some form of electronic mixer as in options 2 or 3 above. I was planning on getting the same light that you have and using it with my mixer circuit and just tying the green and yellow wires together. This will give me the center and 2 outermost LEDs lit as running lights that are on all of the time and anytime I hit the brake the full bar will light up.
  17. Flyinfool
    The FH012 RR you have in the first post is still shorting the excess power to ground. just like the original Yami one does. This one SH775 does not short the excess power to ground and will result in a cooler running stator. Althoough I think I would prefer the SHxx1 once they release it just to have some reserve on current carrying ability. http://www.shindengen.co.jp/img_e/product/electro/catalog/catalog_08.jpg
  18. Flyinfool
    Good think Togas are optional cuz I dont have one. I will just have to be toga-less. OH wait, that was last night, Missed it again, Dang work.......
  19. Flyinfool
    Ummmmm... The Stop/turn lights do have 3 wires, but they are ground, Running, and stop/turn. There is no fourth wire. The ones with the fourth wire are simply turn signals that are mounted right next to each other so half of the TBL will still flash with the turn signal even if the brake is on.
  20. Flyinfool
    Woo Hoo, I almost never beat someone to a post....... While it might be easy to just add the 5th wire you would end up with both the trailer and bike wiring as non standard. Nonstandard is fine as long as you will never pull a trailer for someone else or have someone else pull your trailer or want to pull your trailer behind a car. You could add the 5th wire as a separate wire with a separate bullet connector, but that is getting to be to Micky Mouse for my taste. My preference if it works is option 3, If I can not get that to work I will do option 2.
  21. Flyinfool
    Yes it can be done. There are a couple of ways to go about it. 1. Cheap, quick and dirty. Bring up the left and right turn/stop wires, hook a diode to each one and tie the other end of the diodes together, this then goes to the positive lead of the Third Brake Light (TBL). This will light the TBL whenever either of the stop turn lights are lit. So if you have the brake on the TBL will be lit steady. The down side is that when you have just a turn signal on the TBL will be flashing with the turn signal possibly confusing a driver behind you. 2. It can be done with 2 double pole relays (either DPDT or DPST NO) and 2 diodes so that it will work correctly in all conditions. A little more involved to wire up but the TBL will only light when the brake is on as it should be. Schematic attached. 3. It can be done with solid state components but would require you to have the ability to make a small simple circuit board, The circuit I laid out would use 2 diodes, 2 NPN transistors, 4 resistors and an SCR on a small heat sink. I have the circuit designed and I have bought the parts, I just have not had time to build it yet to verify that it works as designed. There are some commercially available converters out there, but all of the ones that I found were of option 1, and that will not go on my trailer.
  22. Flyinfool
    The issue with most of the surveillance systems is power. There is no power available. and the surveillance systems (recorder part) can not handle the temperature and humidity extremes of outdoor use. It gets real hot and real cold in the shed and everything gets wet from condensation. And from reading the specs, the surveillance cams have even less range than the trail cams unless you get into the expensive cams. The cam that I have picked has a range of 45 feet for the motion sensor and the IR flash, it also has a setting to just snap a pic anywhere from 1 second to 1 hour intervals. This is so that you can monitor a large area that is out of sensor range. This is probably the setting I'll use. One of the issues that is being remedied is that the lock on the gate has had the same combination for 33 years. There are a lot of past club members that have that combo. This is way out in the boonies, there are no houses within a mile and a 22 is not real loud either. I hope they will wait till I have the cam up before they come back.
  23. Flyinfool
    So in other words since the speed is now correct (Lowered from 66 to 60) so that means that the miles on the odometer will be less? This will raise the resale value but cut down on the miles per tank of gas. Something to keep in mind when you also notice a sudden 10% drop in gas mileage.
  24. Flyinfool
    First off, welcome to the asylum...... That extra wire to the center of the battery is a fluid level monitor for the bikes computer. If the electrolyte drops to low You will see a battery icon in the display and get a flashing red light on the dash. If you need to replace the battery and the new battery does not have a hole for the battery probe, there is a simple fix to confuse the computer so it does not keep the warning light on. you simply add a resistor and connect to power. You MUST add the resistor or you will blow out the computer. As far as the rough running, start with a heavy dose of SeaFoam in the gas tank and run it hard. SeaFoam is like a miracle drug for these older bikes that were never intended to have alcohol in the gas tank. Clean the corrosion on the battery terminals and while you are at it check the other ends of the cables to. There was a post not to long ago with a great checklist for buying the 1st gen Ventures. I will go hunt for it unless someone beats me to it.
  25. Flyinfool
    Well I ended up ordering the Bushnell Trophy Cam Blackout. And to try to make sure it stays where I put it. I also ordered a Heavy Duty CamLockBox with Python cable lock. This Box is made from 10Ga steel (Thats .134 thick). My .22 bullet trap is made of 10Ga steel. So if someone does manage to spot it 15 feet up a tree the box will help to resist the cam being shot up. Not prevent it but it will make their target a lot smaller, and hopefully save the memory card with their pic on it. We were out at the field with the LEOs on Saturday and were able to find 2 bullets, one in pretty good shape. The LEOs are very interested in finding someone that would fire a gun withing city limits. The are running the bullets and shell caseings thru balistics to see if they match anything. There were a lot of things damaged in the sheds. There was one bullet that went thru the sheds wall thru the shed out the other side into the next shed thru that shed and out thru another steel wall and finally put a hole in the tank of the porta john. We did not go looking for that bullet... The two bullets that we found were inside of plastic jugs, one was the full jug of diesel fuel (they had to get the full one, missed the two empties) the other was inside of the weed sprayer tank that was full of weed killer. In looking at the hole patterns in the sheds, someone was out to inflict maximum damage, they knew right where things were stored. Every shot was either a hit on equipment or extremely close to high value equipment. Arrrrgggggg......... Why do people have to be such a-holes......... I really hope this camera catches someone. Charges will be pressed.
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