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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. I told ya...........
  2. I told you they are real proud of them...
  3. Good luck. I spent 6 months watching ebay to find my replacement, and had to settle for one with imperfections. If you do find one, get a firm grip on your wallet, those that have them are very proud of them. Or if you are more ambitions than me, there is one laying on Hy 32 somewhere between Cudahy and Racine WI.
  4. Some of us do not have a wife.................yet.
  5. 6061 also has another neat property. You can get it as 6061-T0 and it will do a nice tight bend with no cracking or you can get it in a -T4 temper for something in between. It can then be heat treated to the T6 hardness to get the strength back. OR it will age harden all by its self. So if you want tight bends and the strength of 6061-T6 you have to have fresh -T0 or -T4 to work with. Be patient and it will age harden.
  6. So did you find what was blowing the fuses?
  7. Will you still be carrying OSB up the ladder yet when the snow flies again????
  8. While Heli-Coils are great, they are also very expensive to get the kit. It can be hard to justify the cost for a single repair. In the metric sizes that we would be likely to use. it is $40 - $60 per thread size for off brand and $70-$100 for genuine Heli-Coil brand. Once you have the special tap and installation tool for a thread size then you can use all of the different types and lengths of inserts for that specific thread. I often start out with the off brand tools and then get the genuine coils to use for the actual repair. There are situations that will easily justify $100 for a thread repair if the part being repaired is either very expensive and/or very difficult to replace. I am slowly building up an assortment of Heli-Coil sizes. I do not have all of the sizes yet but some day I will. There are applications where I design a part (usually aluminum) to have a Heli-Coil right from the start because the Heli-Coiled hole is stronger that the original thread size.
  9. It all depends on the alloy and the temper of your aluminum. If you are getting the Aluminum at the hardware store odds are it is 6063-T651. If so then the general rule of thumb would be to use an inside bend radius equal to 3 times the material thickness.
  10. My carbtune took a good month to get here. But from all of the reports I read, I was expecting that.
  11. I agree, The temp may be a concern. Especially if you get down south where they can hit those kinds of temps. The temp over a blacktop road will be significantly higher than what the weatherman is reporting. Just look at the track temps during a NASCAR race. The other thing is, what is your reason for changing? If it is to save power, this light pulls 46 watts. That is more than a 35 Watt HID which has been well proven to work in both functionality and light output. Another thing to consider is RF noise. There have been issues with some LED lights in the past putting out bad RF noise. RF noise does not just make for bad radio reception but it can mess with any electronics. There are computers on the bike. With all of that said, someone has to be the gunny pig to try it for the first time. Go for it and let us know how it works out.
  12. Great writeup. I am now considering changing my own tires next week instead of taking them into The Shop. But then The Shop charges 18.50 to mount and balance a tire if I just bring in the tires and rims. I guess I would have to agree with at least checking the balance. From my other hobbies, if it spins it needs to be balanced, so that carries thru to the bikes as well. I even checked the flywheel balance while it was of after I had the starter clutch upgrade.
  13. You can get Glow Paint here http://glowinc.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=11 I do not know how durable it is for a button marking.
  14. It sounds like the garage is a better workout than the gym. The garage is making your poor old muscles do REAL coordinated work instead of the fake work from the gym.
  15. Did you or your neighbors have a bonfire?
  16. I would put a ring terminal on that frame grounding stud and still run separate ground wires. In order to have a good frame ground you must scrape off all of the paint to get a good solid metal to metal contact. Of course that bare metal will quickly rust and you will have ground issues down the road. But then a bad trailer ground should never cause a fuse to blow. You need to figure out what wire is connected to the wrong place first. Double check your wiring, it is common for the converter wire colors to not match the bike wire colors. On a RSV bike; Black - Ground Yellow - Brake Blue - Running Brown - Left turn Green - Right turn Standard colors for a trailer hookup are. These are most likely the colors coming out of your converter on the bike side, but check your instructions to verify. White - Ground Blue - Brake Brown - Running Yellow - Left turn Green - Right turn Some converters have another fused wire that goes to bikes battery. Sometimes Black and sometimes Red, depending on brand and model. The output of the converter to the trailer and the trailer wiring should be; White - Ground Brown - Running Yellow - Left turn/brake green - Right turn/brake
  17. Here is the drawing if you want to use it.
  18. What Dave said. My employer wanted to take my pic for publicity and I strongly expressed that I did not wish it. None of the pics turned out usable. I aint pretty to begin with, but when I want to, I can be real nonphotogenic.
  19. I think that for that kind of money I would rather have an actual amphibious airplane.
  20. I was thinking along the lines of drilling and tapping and counter boring the exposed end to put in a hex socket head cap screw with red Loctite. This way you would have a hex drive for install and removal and no visible drive on the outside of the Snagglebar. Unless of course you have access to the technology to make a hex hole into the end of the bar.
  21. Yes there is such a thing as a tap extension. http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/NavigationServlet?ta=Y&N=12106021
  22. YES SHE IS!!! Make her stop it......
  23. OUCH! I do not know what would cause half of the stator to cook like that. If it was a short in one winding it would take out every third coil all the way around. The only thing I can think of is, the stator is cooled by engine oil that comes out the center of the flywheel that somehow that cooling oil was blocked from getting to that half of the stator.
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