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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    I still find your endurance capabilities amazing. It don't matter what kind of seat is under me, there is no way my delicate tush can sit on anything that long. I still concider 400 miles in 24 hours an endurance run. Have fun and be safe.
  2. Flyinfool
    Don't just get a converter, the isolator is not much more and it is far better. The Isolator has only one more wire to hook up than a converter, a fused power lead to the battery. Make sure that whichever one you get is compatible with both incandescent and LED trailer lights. There are some that can only do one or the other.
  3. Flyinfool
    Short answer, YES. If one of my 2 Bad Boys horns dies, I will replace it. I have one on each side of the bike. With my two Bad Boys horns, one is a year older than the other, I started out with one for a year. But when I hit the horns the frequencies are just slightly different so it sets up a beat frequency of around 4 Hz in the final tone, very attention getting. With a single horn I was only able to occasionally get people to drop a cell phone. With the dual horns they now often drop the phone, and just a few days ago I finally hit the holy grail and got someone to throw the phone out the open car window.
  4. Flyinfool
    Can you still put the bike in gear with the engine running? If it was a bad switch the engine would kill as soon as you put it in gear. So if you can still ride with the icon lit, I would think it is something other than the side stand switch.
  5. Flyinfool
    I also keep a separate account for PP. I can make the transfers online as needed to cover purchases. My bank requires me to keep at least one dollar in the account or they consider it closed. I sure hope I never get to the point that I can not afford to keep a dollar tied up. I get free checking anyhow just cuz I is old.
  6. Flyinfool
    Sounds like it would have been easier to get a new truck...... ......but not as much fun.
  7. Flyinfool
    Well I got this email from the seller today. Just hours after eBay contacted him. We shall see.
  8. Flyinfool
    I didn't think I misread it. The seller does have 99.3% positive feedback with over 16,000 ratings. My guess is that it is someone that is not in the habit of screwing people and values his rating and will end up doing whats right. If he really only has one, I will be happy with a 50% refund, I like this for a center brake light on my trailer. I was gonna put the other one on the bike.
  9. Flyinfool
    My experience with a train horn is that they figure it out real quick. I don't think that they identify it as a train horn just something is very loud that is really POed at them and they need to correct whatever it is real fast. Because it is so loud they assume it is real close. With one good blast of the train horn everyone has always made the correct instant decision of either stopping or getting out of the way quick. And then they go clean their shorts........ Unless you install a BIG tank AND compressor, all you get is one or maybe 2 short blasts. A train horn uses ~20 CFM of air, that you are feeding from a 1.5 gallon tank. 1.5 gallons is 0.2 cubic feet. Those horns on ebay are pretty loud and of similar tone to a train but are still no comparison to a real train horn. Real train horns start at $750 for a used horn with no air system and go up from there. The spec for a train horn is that it must be a MINIMUM of 120dba at 100 yards. most of these horns we can get are rated at 4 inches. Sound pressure level is cut in half when you double the distance. A Db reading without a distance is a meaningless number.
  10. Flyinfool
    I sure hope that the eBay buyer protection plan works. I bought these [ame=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221078918507]2 pcs high mount 2 wire RED LED strip 3rd brake light with 28 leds inside each | eBay[/ame] Got it in the mail and thee is only one in the package, Seller claims the auction is for 1 bar but he has 2 available. I read it as the auction is for 2 bars and that is all he has. The seller is also trying to hang his hat on it being advertised "as is no returns". Please take a look at the ad, am I reading it wrong or the seller? I did pay with a CC thru PP and it has eBay buyer protection so I should be covered from something. I do not think the seller really wants a bad feedback over such a small amount.
  11. Flyinfool
    One other option is to get the hip fixed. I am already a candidate for a new hip, but I haven't finished wearing the OEM hip out yet. I only ride solo so I have less weight to control.
  12. Flyinfool
    18psi is pretty high for the front shocks.
  13. Flyinfool
    I also have an 88 standard, It came with factory cruise, but no radio, no CB, no intercom, no cassette, and like me, no class, or compressor.
  14. Flyinfool
    And of course it was the very last item to check in the whole start circuit. Should have started at the other end and you would have found it right away first test. That's what ya get for listening to me..........
  15. Flyinfool
    My standard came with factory cruise control. The Royal also has the extra Royal badges.
  16. Flyinfool
  17. Flyinfool
    I sure wish I had the room to store or even use one of those.
  18. Flyinfool
    Yes it appears that we had our "wires" crossed on terminology. OK if I read your answers correctly. At the 9 pin connector at the flasher relay, when you connect a jumper from ground to either one of the blue/white wires it does not crank. When you connect a jumper from ground to the blue/white wire at the solenoid, it does crank. If this is true then the blue/white wire that runs from the flasher relay to the solenoid is either broken or making a bad contact at one end or the other. When you connected the ground to both blue/white wires at the flasher relay you supplied the ground to one end of the the wire and it did not crank. when you connected to the other end of the wire at the solenoid it did crank. This means that it is a bad wire or bad connection at one end of that wire. I think your getting close now. You can do a quick and dirty test of that wire by running a jumper from the blue/white at the solenoid to one of the Blue/white wires at the flasher, one of them will make it crank one will not. with the jumper connected to the one that does not crank, hit the start button, it should crank.
  19. Flyinfool
    Geeeezzzz......... Now we all need a room........ Best wishes for many, many more.
  20. Flyinfool
    I missed this part the first time thru. There are 2 blue/white wires at the start relay. One goes to the start switch and the other goes to the Solenoid. I can not tell from the wiring diagram which connector pin is which. 1. Connect a jumper from battery ground to the blue/white wire at the switch, It should crank. 2. Connect a jumper from the blue/white wire at the switch to the black wire at the switch. It should crank. If 1 and 2 are both true it is a start switch problem. 3. If #1or 2 is false, ie no crank, connect a jumper from the battery neg to one of the blue/white wires at the start relay, there are 2 right next to each other in the connector, one of the blue/white wires should make it crank the other should not. 4. If #3 is true, connect the jumper from battery Neg to the blue/white wire that did not make it crank and press the start button, it should crank. If it cranks then the blue/white wire between the start relay and the start switch is broken. 5. If #3 is false, ie neither blue/white wire makes it crank, then connect the jumper from Bat ground to the blue/white wire at the solenoid, it should crank. If it does not then repair the broken blue white wire between the Start relay and the solenoid. 6. If #4 is true, Connect a jumper between the 2 blue/white wires at the start relay and press the start button. It should crank. If it does crank you have a bad start relay. Once you get to a test that does not work as described STOP it does not pay to continue till that step is resolved. My fingers hurt now, test this and get back to us and we can go from there.
  21. Flyinfool
    That is why it would have to be a law. There is no way the phone makers would do it on their own. You just have to watch for some hacker to come out with an app to disable it.
  22. Flyinfool
    Until they die as a result of their actions they will not stop. The only possible way to stop people from using their phones while driving is to pass laws to make the phone manufacturers program the phones to stop working at anything over 5 mph. Except for 911. This would cost WAY less than 1 penny per phone to implement. Your talking at most one days pay for a software engineer. And he is probably in India or china.
  23. Flyinfool
    I am nowhere near athletic enough to pick something up off the road while sitting on the bike, and not about to become very vulnerable while getting off the bike. I just hope it was a really expensive smart phone.
  24. Flyinfool
    I think I can see A screw that MIGHT be salvageable. Ouch And with it being wet from a fresh washing, I sure hope it was mud and not blood that they had to wash off for the pics.
  25. Flyinfool
    Love it when a plan comes together...... I was going to mention putting in 2 coils to fill the hole but forgot, I have done that many times. Yes you can sometimes get away with not drilling the stripped threads out depending on what the hole looks like. It is just safer to use the drill if you are not skilled on the "feel" of a properly cutting tap. Any oil is better than dry, I use a cutting oil specifically made for threading aluminum. In a pinch I have used a drop of motor oil from the bottom of the engine dip stick, not the best but still better than nothing.
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