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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. I also have an 88 standard, It came with factory cruise, but no radio, no CB, no intercom, no cassette, and like me, no class, or compressor.
  2. And of course it was the very last item to check in the whole start circuit. Should have started at the other end and you would have found it right away first test. That's what ya get for listening to me..........
  3. My standard came with factory cruise control. The Royal also has the extra Royal badges.
  4. I sure wish I had the room to store or even use one of those.
  5. Yes it appears that we had our "wires" crossed on terminology. OK if I read your answers correctly. At the 9 pin connector at the flasher relay, when you connect a jumper from ground to either one of the blue/white wires it does not crank. When you connect a jumper from ground to the blue/white wire at the solenoid, it does crank. If this is true then the blue/white wire that runs from the flasher relay to the solenoid is either broken or making a bad contact at one end or the other. When you connected the ground to both blue/white wires at the flasher relay you supplied the ground to one end of the the wire and it did not crank. when you connected to the other end of the wire at the solenoid it did crank. This means that it is a bad wire or bad connection at one end of that wire. I think your getting close now. You can do a quick and dirty test of that wire by running a jumper from the blue/white at the solenoid to one of the Blue/white wires at the flasher, one of them will make it crank one will not. with the jumper connected to the one that does not crank, hit the start button, it should crank.
  6. Geeeezzzz......... Now we all need a room........ Best wishes for many, many more.
  7. I missed this part the first time thru. There are 2 blue/white wires at the start relay. One goes to the start switch and the other goes to the Solenoid. I can not tell from the wiring diagram which connector pin is which. 1. Connect a jumper from battery ground to the blue/white wire at the switch, It should crank. 2. Connect a jumper from the blue/white wire at the switch to the black wire at the switch. It should crank. If 1 and 2 are both true it is a start switch problem. 3. If #1or 2 is false, ie no crank, connect a jumper from the battery neg to one of the blue/white wires at the start relay, there are 2 right next to each other in the connector, one of the blue/white wires should make it crank the other should not. 4. If #3 is true, connect the jumper from battery Neg to the blue/white wire that did not make it crank and press the start button, it should crank. If it cranks then the blue/white wire between the start relay and the start switch is broken. 5. If #3 is false, ie neither blue/white wire makes it crank, then connect the jumper from Bat ground to the blue/white wire at the solenoid, it should crank. If it does not then repair the broken blue white wire between the Start relay and the solenoid. 6. If #4 is true, Connect a jumper between the 2 blue/white wires at the start relay and press the start button. It should crank. If it does crank you have a bad start relay. Once you get to a test that does not work as described STOP it does not pay to continue till that step is resolved. My fingers hurt now, test this and get back to us and we can go from there.
  8. That is why it would have to be a law. There is no way the phone makers would do it on their own. You just have to watch for some hacker to come out with an app to disable it.
  9. Until they die as a result of their actions they will not stop. The only possible way to stop people from using their phones while driving is to pass laws to make the phone manufacturers program the phones to stop working at anything over 5 mph. Except for 911. This would cost WAY less than 1 penny per phone to implement. Your talking at most one days pay for a software engineer. And he is probably in India or china.
  10. I am nowhere near athletic enough to pick something up off the road while sitting on the bike, and not about to become very vulnerable while getting off the bike. I just hope it was a really expensive smart phone.
  11. I think I can see A screw that MIGHT be salvageable. Ouch And with it being wet from a fresh washing, I sure hope it was mud and not blood that they had to wash off for the pics.
  12. Love it when a plan comes together...... I was going to mention putting in 2 coils to fill the hole but forgot, I have done that many times. Yes you can sometimes get away with not drilling the stripped threads out depending on what the hole looks like. It is just safer to use the drill if you are not skilled on the "feel" of a properly cutting tap. Any oil is better than dry, I use a cutting oil specifically made for threading aluminum. In a pinch I have used a drop of motor oil from the bottom of the engine dip stick, not the best but still better than nothing.
  13. Yesterday on my way home from work there is a weird intersection that I go thru. It is a T intersection. I was heading across the top of the T and had my turn signal on to make the left turn to the base of the T. The rout I was traveling was the normal traffic route the other side of the T is a dead end. So there was no stop sign for me but there was a stop sign for the oncoming traffic. Well there was a oncoming car, she did stop at the stop sign. SOMETHING just yelled at me to watch this one close, somehow I just knew she was not going to wait for me to clear the intersection. My subconscious brain was already to stop or go straight WHEN she was going to run the stop sign. Yup the plan all came together, she came up to the sign, stopped, and then just as I was getting there she took off right in front of me. But since I somehow knew this was going to happen. So as I was coming into the intersection I had already downshifted to 1st, had the clutch pulled in, the throttle released and my right hand and foot already one the brakes. So I was able to be stopped in the middle of the intersection, at about a 45° angle but not across the center line, so that she knew where I was headed, while blasting on my dueling Bad Boy horns, about 3 feet from her OPEN drivers window and my HID headlight right in her face. Man she had some real big eyeballs at that point. Then it happened, I hit the holy grail. My very first one. She was so startled by the 2 Bad Boys screaming in her ear, she launched the cell phone that she was talking on right out the car window. :big-grin-emoticon: Unfortunately it landed behind me where I could not run it over. But I did see pieces parts when it hit the pavement. Never question that little voice in the back of your head.
  14. Sounds like a lot of backpedaling to me........ you better duck:duck:
  15. This means that the starter circuit is fine. You either have a bad switch or a bad ground wire. Take your ground wire and connect it to the black wire at the switch, press the start button. If it cranks the switch is fine and you either have a break in the black wire or a bad ground of the black wire. If adding the ground wire does not make it crank with the start button then the problem is in the switch.
  16. :sign yeah that: Buy the cheapest drill bit you can find in either 18.25mm or 23/32 inch (.719 inch). You may have to get a reduced shank bit to fit your drill. It only has to last for one hole in aluminum. Use oil on the tap while tapping. Clean all of the oil out after tapping and before installing the coil.
  17. ????? I thought the headlight part of the switch is closed when the switch is released, open when the switch is pressed. The start half of the switch is open when released and closed when pressed. You can easily test this on the bench with an ohm meter. closed should show 0 ohms on the lowest scale and open should show infinite with the meter on the highest scale.
  18. Better stock up on Ice Cream to sooth any stings.
  19. Or go to the last place you were when it worked, you were messing with the start switch, go back there and make sure that it is all back together correctly. While you are in there, make sure that your kill switch is working correctly and not actually in kill.
  20. Now that you mention it, you could have probably found the kit on ebay with 1 or 2 coils missing. Just check to see if the O'Reilly's has the drill bit in the kit. The lower priced kits normally don't. I guess I never considered all of those as competitors, they each have their specialties and I buy from all.
  21. While I have always looked for tires that that don't look right, not just on big rigs but on ALL vehicles. But I never thought of a rock or other debris stuck between the dallies.
  22. MSC has the M18 x 1.5p kits in stock for $125. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=91911545 You will also need an 18.25mm, or 23/32 drill. I normally get next day service out of MSC. You will have 4 coils left over to help a friend some day.
  23. I guess I would have just drilled, tapped and coiled while on the bike, sounds a lot easier.
  24. Must have been a long ride to get there, it seems you were really bushed......
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