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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    There are some cows that are supposed to have horns. Some people are under the mistaken impression that only male cattle can have horns, but in cattle as well as some other species both males and females can have them.
  2. Flyinfool

    NY Yankees

    Flyinfool replied to bj66's topic in Watering Hole

    The Tigers do NOT have a cheap payroll with over $200 MILLION on just one player. Maybe money can get you into the WS. Maybe the Yankees just did not spend enough.
  3. Flyinfool
    Is awful nice to see so many offer up a left nut over the last 4 years for poor old Squidly..........
  4. Flyinfool
    And the obvious. Did you remember to take off the choke? Ever check the diaphragms?
  5. Flyinfool
    Sure looks like you found it. As mentioned, when you check the diaphragms, hold them up to a bright light, even extremely tiny pin holes will make a difference. If the diaphragms look new the PO likely replaced them and did not do it right. The 2 edges that hold the diaphragm onto the slider are not supposed to come apart. I am not sure if they should be pressed or glued in place.
  6. Flyinfool
    Lookin good. Now you just need to add a high mounted center brake light. I like this one from Super Bright LEDs. I spotted this converter on ebay to make a center brake light work correctly on a 4 wire trailer. It looks like it uses a similar schematic to one that I posted a while back. This one is only rated for 2.5A, so it is for LED only. If I were building it I would use components with a higher amp rating, you are only talking pennies more. Fortunately for me I live in a state that does not register or plate trailers under 3,000 GVW. But the flip side is I always worry about trying to splain that to a LEO while traveling.
  7. Flyinfool
    Sounds like your having fun.
  8. Flyinfool
    That sure looks to be pretty much on the rough side. Looks like it has been stored outside and uncovered. Paint is shot. There are parts missing. That's just what can be seen from the 4 pics. Not sure what "ignition was replaced because the ignition bolts where broke off in the frame." means. Also check your states codes. there have been threads about the voyager kit not being a legal motorcycle in all states, because it has 4 wheels. I think your original offer was fair. Wait till near the end of the month and make the same offer again. Even better is to go look at it, point out every flaw, then make the cash offer. I have had many sellers try to hit me with the reasoning that their price is what it will be worth once I fix it up.
  9. Flyinfool
    I get upset when someone that I do not know takes my first offer without at least making an effort to talk it down. When selling to friends I start out with my best price, which is usually pretty good. When listing something I leave haggle room. When Buying, I am hoping that friends are giving me their best price up front and I make little effort to negotiate. I never offer the asking price for something that I am buying from strangers. I like to think that everyone on a site like this can be considered a friend. I have bought things from members here and never made any real effort to talk the price down. Maybe I'm just to nice for my own good.......
  10. Flyinfool
    Poor baby..........
  11. Flyinfool
    I have been loading and towing trailers for over 30 years including professionally, I have a clue how it is done. I would really love to do some measuring of one of the HF trailers that pulls straight with "no" modifications. I have yet to see one personally. I'm betting that there is something different about it. Maybe a bent axle giving a touch of tow-in or camber. either of which will help to stabilize a trailer, neither of which is designed into the HF trailer. Not all HF axles are welded straight. Like I said above I have seen trailers behind bikes fishtailing back and forth and the driver was either oblivious or it simply was not enough to bother them. Just OK is never good enough for me.
  12. Flyinfool
    I tried everything from 10 to 70 lbs on the tongue of my HF trailer and it swayed no matter how it was loaded. There are a few people that have said they have no sway issues with the stock HF trailer. They are in the minority, or don't mind the sway.
  13. Flyinfool
    ALL of the dents and scratches in my 96 P/U came while parked in a lot. The more I ride the bike the mellower I get on the road just because I know I will lose ANY altercation with ANY cage. That mellowness seems to carry over to when I drive the cage. By the end of PMS season I find that I have gotten much more aggressive behind the wheel, and much more likely to show road rage.
  14. Flyinfool
    Measure the width from the center of the wheel to the center of the wheel. The 40" width that Brian used was just an example of how to do the formula, the bed of this trailer is 40" wide the distance across the tire centers will be more than that. Then take your measured 65" tongue divided by your new width number.
  15. Flyinfool
    If you are worried about failure on the road, install a digital volt meter that will read to one or more decimal places. (You only really need one decimal place.) Just keep an eye on the voltage any change up or down of more than a couple of tenths of a volt, while at cruising speed, could be the beginning of an issue but it will give you time to do something about it before you are stranded.
  16. Flyinfool
    I never checked my wheels for balance. I do not notice any shaking or vibration coming from back there. The tongue length that you have to worry about is the distance from the axle to the center of the coupler. This distance should be 1.5 to 2 times the distance from the center of one tire to the center of the other tire. Since longer is more stable I went for the 2 times. If the tongue is to short the trailer will sway at higher speeds no matter how it is loaded. The little bit of sway is not an issue behind a cage. It is a big issue behind a bike. My bone stock HF trailer started to sway at about 50 MPH, adding the 6 inches from the swivel hitch raised it to about 65 MPH. With the 2 FT total extension (6" swivel hitch and 18" tongue extension) I have hit 80+ (just once) with no sign of sway.
  17. Flyinfool
    The camp fuel is a popular gasoline replacement used in big radio control helicopters. Camp fuel is just naphtha. It has an the equivalent of around a 70 something octain rating. so it is only safe in very low compression engines. It also generates a little less horsepower than gasoline and will require the carbs to be re-tuned to get the mixture correct. I do use it in some of my model aircraft mainly because it does not stink when I bring them into the house. I would not run a motor vehicle on it. It will most likely cause a lot of engine knock and potentially damage if the engine does not have a knock sensor to retard the timing.
  18. Flyinfool
    The single biggest thing to change from stock, is to either make the trailer narrower or lengthen the tongue. The second is to repack and adjust the wheel bearings. These changes are needed for safety. The rest of the suggestions just make it nicer.
  19. Flyinfool
    While it is an '88 model year, the manufacture date is in October of '87. Maybe it was from leftover parts at the end of the '87 model year. Or even just a re-badged '87 that didn't get shipped in time to be an '87. All I know is that the VIN plate and my title both say it is an '88, and it has no class, no radio, no intercom, no CB,and all of the badges just say Venture no Royal. It does have the vapor canisters and emissions crap for California which is why I think it is a California model. This part is per Sky_Doc while he was cussing out the canister and extra hoses while helping me with some carb work.
  20. Flyinfool
    Nope! I have an '88 California Standard.
  21. Flyinfool
    That poor blond......... First come first serve on the piece of tongue that I have........
  22. Flyinfool
    There are some that have not done it and say it is ok. Mine had a bit of sway at all speeds regardless of tongue weight. I tried everything from 10 to 60 lbs. extending the tongue made it solid as can be. I ordered a new tongue from HF parts so that I would have the exact same thing to extend mine with. The one that I bought I just cut 18" off the end and welded it to the end of the tongue that came with the trailer. If you did not know what I did you would be hard pressed to find the joint by looking at the top side. On the inside there are pieces of 1/8 thick plate welded over the joint for reinforcement. You can do either. or use a sheet of diamond plate as mentioned above. If you weld the corners you have to be very certain that you seal up the seams good so that rust does not disassemble it over the years. 2/3rds of my trailer is taken up by the tent, air mattress, and sleeping bag. I have been considering getting a smaller tent if I can find a two person that I can stand up in. if not I'll stay with my monster 10 man 3 room tent. I have never needed the spare, but I would rather have it and not need it than the other way around. I have my spare bolted to the bottom of the tongue, under the bed, just in front of the axle. For as often as it should be needed it does not have to be real easy to get to on the road. When the trailer is standing up against the wall the valve on the spare is right there to easily check air pressure. As an added note I have found that Rustolium red is a perfect match to the HF red on the trailer. At least for the first year, the HF paint fades pretty quick and the Rustolium does not. My trailer is stored outdoors. I kept it red for added visibility in the daytime. Even though most cagers are blind to the color red....
  23. Flyinfool
    That is exactly where I started. Things I did to it. 1. Grease and adjust the wheel bearings. 2. Remove one of the 2 springs on each side. 3. Extend the tongue. I added 18 inches and then added a swivel hitch for a total of 2 feet extension) (I still have a piece of OEM tongue if you want it.) 4. You need to add a flat washer on each coupler bolt between the tongue and the coupler on one side only to get the spacing correct or the you will distort the coupler. 5. Change to the HF LED lighting kit. Much brighter and also much less amp draw. 6. I used a piece of 1/2 thick pressure treated plywood for a floor. If I ever need to I can remove the car topper in just a couple of minutes (4 internal Eye bolts) and have a nice little flat bed trailer. 7. Not done yet but I will be adding the 11 LED light bar from Super Bright LEDs as a high center brake light. I will wire it as running and brake only. I will also have a plug on this wire so that I can still easily remove the topper from the trailer. 8. I did not like the flat 4 connector on the HF wire harness so I replaced that to. 9. I added removable steel casters to the back of the trailer so that I can stand it up against a wall for storage and still have it roll sideways as needed. 10. add a piece of rubber hose to the rear spring bolt to keep it from rattle/clanking down the road. I did not weld the frame together as many here have done. The ply floor that I added is more than adequate to keep the frame square. No matter how tight you crank the bolts during assembly it still only takes a slight bump to knock it back out of square. You need to either weld it or add a floor to keep things square. Future plans; I am seriously considering adding electric brakes for next summer. I do not like the extra stopping distance when in heavy traffic. I want to add a lot more lights for better night visibility. I still have to build a better cooler rack.
  24. Flyinfool
    It is also posible that they were wired to only come on with the hi or low beam of the main headlight. I never heard of factory Aux lights for a first gen. There is no telling what the PO may have done hooking them up.
  25. Flyinfool
    That could be arranged...........
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