Flyinfool

I go shopping every couple of years, American Family always seems to win for my situation, I have had them for around 30 years now. For the bike I am paying $22/month. For other people I know they are super expensive. Everyone's needs and history are different so you have to shop. Just watch out for those that will quote you based on minimal coverage. Be sure they are quoting the same thing you have now.

Well he did say he was heading for Cali and that his phone would not allow him internet access. Knowing cowpuc he does tend to like to get lost a lot on the way to most anywhere. Besides, if he keeps quiet he can scarf down more ice cream before Condor finds him...... :fingers-crossed-emo:fatsmiley:

I usually run a car till it is pretty near dead. So it is most likely that most of my old cars are now refrigerators.

It says my puter is to old to watch the vid.........

Nice bikes. But I see you have not found my 1st gen on Craigs list yet.........

The new steering bearings did noting for the pull to the left. They do make a special tool for adjusting the bearings but if you are creative you could do it without the special tool.

As long as you have the plates out, measure the friction discs for wear. New is 3mm (0.1181 inch) thick and the wear limit is 2.8mm (0.1102 inch) thick. Most people can not see the difference between new and worn out.

:happy-emoticon: :big-grin-emoticon:

Mine never wobbled, but if I let go the bars it makes a hard left turn, regardless of side to side CG, for aft CG wind direction or road camber. When my steering bearings were worn there was a slight wobble all the time. It does not take much looseness for the head to be to loose. With the front wheel off the ground flip the steering against the stops, there should be a bit of resistance, if it moves very freely tighten up the bearing a bit. Once you get the tightness correct then you can turn the steering from side to side slowly to feel if there is an indent, usually near center. if there is any detent then your bearings are shot and need to be replaced. You can easily have bad bearings and not feel any looseness or movement shaking the forks. Oh ya, You are not supposed to let go of the handlebars.......

If you are willing to give up the self canceling the best way is to put in an LED flasher, it will not be plug and play. You will have to mess with the wiring to get it to work. If you want to keep the self canceling then the only option (I have heard of) is with load resistors. I have seen some LED bulbs that had built in load resistors.

Since they claim the transmission is rated to 1000 HP and the pump unit is 500 HP, It might be better and cheaper to get the Turn key minus and then put in a built Chevy mouse motor. It does not cost a lot to get 500 HP. They are getting $29,000 for just the V6 engine and the transaxel out of an old VW bus. Not sure what is all missing if you get the rolling chassis for ONLY $76,000. The company will NOT sell a complete vehicle, they sell a kit that is assembled by you, your mechanic or their mechanic. I guess that is so if anything goes bad it is not their fault.......

On all my vehicles (Cars trucks and bikes) I add terminal blocks for adding on electrical goodies. I have a hot all the time block that is powered direct from the battery thru a Maxi fuse, a block that is only hot when the key is on powered thru a Maxi fuse and a relay, and a ground block. (I never use a frame ground, I always run a ground wire.) This makes it real easy to have ways to hook things up and not worry about messing with the factory wires.

OK me toooo

Ahh those old Chevelles, I can not even guess how many of those I destroyed back when I was racing stock cars. We were constantly on the hunt for parts cars. We had it down to where we could strip one in an afternoon. We kept all the sheet metal for use on the stock car, and the engine and trans if they were still functional. We then sold the engine and trans usually for enough to pay for the car and junked the rest. The one from my past that I would love to still have was a 72 AMC Sportabout. It was red with a wite stripe similar to what was on the Starsky and Hutch Torino. I found out after I sold it that it was an incredibly rare test car. It had an experimental High performance version of the 258 straight 6. I have no idea what the ratings were but with the 3 speed manual it could break the tires loose while cursing on the interstate and just stomping the gas. It was stolen about a month after I sold it and when it was found all that was missing was the engine and front fenders, It also have a very rare set of front fenders with no rust. The police said it was a professional hit. The police are the ones that told me about the rare engine. At the time all I knew was that it did not use the same starter motor as all other 258s, it used the one from a big V8. I was replacing it often. I have never been able to find any info on that engine other than what the cop told me.

Oh now I'm gonna get yelled at............ Plugs are the stock recommended NGK, they are 5 years old and have around 20K miles on them. I have a new set on the shelf but the bike is running so good why replace perfectly good parts. I do a sync every spring and it needs very little adjustment. The carbs have never been off the bike (at least in the 12 years I've had it) and they even still have the plugs over the adjustment screws. When I did my valve clearances, I set them all to max gap so there is more room to wear before I have to do it again 9I have a surface grinder and made some custom shims to get them all perfect). This also means that I have very slightly less lift and duration on the cam. It is surprising what a few thou on the lifters can do to the way an engine runs. When I was racing valve lash is one of the things we played with every week to tweak the power band of the engine to suit track conditions.

there is not much clearence between the tire and the swing arm. That will be your limiting factor.

I have always had good luck with the Meguiar brand. It comes in several grades, If you sand with your 600 wet you will need to start with the rubbing compound that is more coarse and work up to the polish.

My engine, drive train and breathing are all bone stock. My commute to work is all city with the top speed limit 45 and 22 miles each way. This compromises 95%+ of my riding. I get 39-40 MPG consistently for the last 10+ years. It is all 1 up (I'm 6'1" 250) with around 30 lbs of junk in the trunks. I get gas at the first station after the warning light first comes on steady, which is always right at 160 +/- 3 miles on the trip meter and put in 4.05 - 4.15 gallons. I can not compare my interstate MPG because that is usually fully loaded and pulling a loaded trailer at speeds faster than I should.

It sure does look a lot better than in the first pic. You could even just sand and polish the clear that you already have there and not need any more coats. Also if you do recoat it, take the hardware off, each clip is just 2 screws from the inside and it is actually faster to take it off to do it right than it is to mask and unmask the hardware.

The jumper wire is much heavier gauge than needed and it looks like cold solder joints. Cold solder joints will fail quickly with any shock or vibration. For the other connection did you just bridge solder across or is there some wire in there to? To do the jumper, Precoat the circuit board connection points with solder and a non corrosive flux, this is called tinning. (Plumbing flux is acid based and the acid will eat away at your joints.) Do not rely on just the flux core of the solder. Then twist the strands of the wire tight and using flux tin the ends of the wire. now when you solder the wire to the board you will need to ad very little if any additional solder to the joint. NEVER melt the solder with the tip of the iron. ALWAYS heat the part with the iron until the part is hot enough to melt the solder. the solder should be bright, smooth and shiny if it is a good joint.

I have only found one place that makes it and they recommend it for use on bicycles where the service interval is much shorter than what is normal for a motorcycle. http://www.finishlineusa.com/downloads/additional-items/Ceramic_Grease_Spec_Sheet.pdf I have no idea if it is good or not.

If you can pull the masking before the clear dries or you will have a raised edge. Since you are putting clear there was no need to mask.

You effectively did the water test on a spot. If that's the case then just scuff sand it with 400 wet just enough to break the shine so that the clear will stick. Spray it with a buzz bomb of 2K clear coat (around $20 per can). It might just look fine with just the one coat of clear. If the scratches still show as valleys in the new clear, you can wet sand them out with the same 400 wet paper and shoot the clear again and it should look great. 1 can of clear will easily get 2 coats on that lid. from the time you mix the clear it is good in the can for 48 hours, the sprayed clear will be hard in about 12-24 hours for you to decide if it needs more sanding and a recoat. After the 48 hours throw the can away, it will be starting to harden in the can and be unusable. BUT be careful, I redid the one lid and it looked so good that it made the 30 year old paint on the other lid look bad so I had to clear that one too so that they would match........

So that means that you been sneaking down past me and not even waving as you go by........

Hard to tell in the pic if those scratches go all the way through the color. Put some water on it, if the scratches disappear then you are good to do a simple scuff sand and clear coat, sand smooth and reclear and you will never see the scratches again. If the scratches are into the color, then the only option is to repaint. That sure looks a LOT better than the one I had taken of at 65 MPH by a softball size rock that bounced out of the back of an oncoming truck, impact speed was around 120 MPH. I never did find all the pieces of that cover and had to get a new one and paint it to match.