Flyinfool

TOOLS EXPLAINED http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=3&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'xxxxxxxx' http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=4&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=5&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood- blisters. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=6&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=7&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=8&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=9&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=10&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=11&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=12&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=13&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=14&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=15&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=16&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=17&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=18&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=19&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. “XXXXX” TOOL:http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=20&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'XXXX' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Not to be the eternal pessimist but how does, or can, a site prevent perverts from joining to try to hook up with youngsters.

Check your odometer against a measured distance. It is very common to have the odometer correct but the indicated speed be off. As for mileage, there are so many significant variables involved. Just depending on how I am riding, I have had as high as 47 mpg and as low as 20 mpg for a full tank.

Cool, Do you have any chains? :sign yeah that:

On top sometimes is fine with me, as long as you remember your place.......

Ill bet that works for Easter ham to.......

The tag-a-long has a narrower wheel base so it ends up with the proper tongue to axle ratio.

Me thinks you gots it down........

Tom you sure seem to have a lot of HATES lately........ Now you hate the look of Taters lovely smiling face??????? I'm tellin...................

This is correct. BUT, you must make sure of the polarity of the connections to the time delay relay. The original relay does not care about polarity the time delay relay does. If they did not build in polarity protection it will be fried by reverse polarity. If they did build in polarity protection it simply will not work with reverse polarity. From their description it sounds like they are NOT protected.

These trailers were not made for pulling behind a bike, period. With the stock tongue you would never notice the slight sway behind even a small car. Even behind a bike the sway is very slight, some do not even notice it or it is just not enough to worry about. I built mine stock first and while it was drivable, I did not like it, the tongue stretch made the difference.

I'll try to answer some questions. The title is partly because I still had sticker shock and contractors always seem to come in over budget. I'm not saying the the work is sub par or was unnecessary just more expensive than budgeted for. The roof has a 12 / 12 pitch the dormers have a 3 / 12 pitch. The boards on the roof are not spaced for wood shingles, they are tight. I was also concerned about sealing in the winter, The contractor assured me IN WRITING that the shingles will not blow off before it gets warm enough for them to seal. He does roof in the winter all the time on new construction and has never had a problem. This is one of the higher rated contractors in the area, NOT the cheapest quote. I am assuming that they know enough to turn down the pressure in their air nailers. On many of the nails they pull out their hammer to finish setting them. I went with the option of replacing boards as needed. putting OSB or ply over perfectly good wood is just overkill, boards have held up fine for over 100 years, I am not convinced that ply or OSB will ever live that long.

Thats OK Tom, you'll get that SNOW freshened up on Saturday...... But you have a little car.......

Well they beat the sun and got the whole roof done on the first side. The crew chief said that there was 2 layers of shingles and 2 layers of roll roof under that. As for why the roof is getting done now. It was the roofs decision, not mine. The last storm peeled some shingles and created an unauthorized waterfall thru the ceiling plaster. The shingles are Owens Corning Oakridge. The number of spots that needed repair is not that bad on this first side, I expect the other side to be worse just because the roof looks to be in worse shape on that side. I'll have to try to get a pic of the house. It aint nuttin fancy just a little old house. But you will have to PM me your email cuz we can not do attachments to a PM.

First side wood is done. Looks like around 75' used. First row of shingles are up. They have about an hour and a half till dark. With the snow tomorrow and holidays coming they will not be back to start the second side till Wednesday next week, weather permitting.

I did the same as you except I used the trailer with the 8" wheels. I used a pressure treated ply deck. My topper is attached with 4 Eye bolts with a nut that is run up tight then a thick flat washer then a fender washer. this is run through a piece of scrap ply that is about 6" square. then thru the topper from the inside and finally thru the deck. I have a fender washer, thick flat washer and a nylon lock nut to finish on the bottom. the 4 eye bolts on the inside come in handy to tie things down when it is not packed solid with stuff. On my topper there is a channel that was for the original mounting system that is about 4" wide and 1/2 deep, I used another piece of ply scrap to fill that in so that the bottom would be fully supported. I am going to put in a piece of rubber backed outdoor carpet to also help stuff from sliding around.

I am having a new roof put on. They started today. Now that they have half of the roof off It is totally apparent that the builder of the house back in 1890 was a pinhead. The roof deck boards just end where they end, the next board butted up and on they went. The joints between boards are not centered on the rafters. When they got to the end of the roof they took whatever the cutoff was and butted it up against the next board. Even if the cut off was not long enough to reach 2 rafters, there are many spots where both ends of a board are floating and it is just nailed to ONE rafter in the middle of the board, it tips when pressure is applied to either end.:doh: Of course as to be expected the bottom 2 boards are rotten. But I had expected that with a 120 yo house that had 3 layers of roof on it. The contractor gave me 3 choices. 1. Tear off all the wood and redeck. $5,000 2. Cover the whole roof with 1/4 OSB to give a flat solid nailing surface. $2,500 3. Repair all of the loose ends with new boards at $5.00 per foot installed. Estimate of 100-300 feet. How many total repairs will be needed will not be known till the other half of the roof is torn off. $500 - $1,500. The budget is tight on this job so I went with option 3. I hope I did the right thing, or at least not to bad of a thing.

The schematic shown above is for a 1st Gen MKII, using the connector left by removing the RLU. The hand drawn diagram above will work for a 2nd gen. The LED used is a Radio Shack P/N 276-312

Oh yippie Gas just went from $3.03 to $3.40 overnight.

We'll save some snow for when you get here.......

Heck the line above that one says to replace the seals in the master and slave cylinders every 2 years. I'll bet no one does that either. I guess it is time to call Earl....

If you are blinding people that bad then your light is adjusted to high. Most people that cheap out and not get the Bi-xenon, set the beam to high to compensate for not having a hi beam. You are then effectively running hi beam all the time and blinding oncoming traffic. Just get the correct bulb so that you can keep a hi and lo beam both aimed correctly like the bike was designed for.

The 6K will probably match the color of your LEDs the best. As for lighting up the road, either the 5K or 6k will be best. You loose some light with either a higher or lower temperature color. You definatly want to get a BI-Xenon setup. You do not want to give up Hi beam. You will want to add a relay and a switch to be able to have the light off for starting the bike. The HID has a protection circuit that will shut off the light if the voltage drops to 9V or lower while cranking. You then have to turn the light off to reset it.

Is your tach working? IIRC the tach is driven from the #2 coil.

Some guys just have all the luck............ :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: :snow2: