Flyinfool

I didn't really mean to yell so loud, but there is story after story of disintegrated fairings and other plastic parts due to loctite, on this and other forums.

A lot also depends on where you live. There are some neighborhoods where it does not matter how many locks you have. It will be gone. Other neighborhoods people don't even know if the key can be removed from the ignition, because they never tried. As for me, where I live, I just lock the trunk and bags and keep the key with me. At night it is stuffed into a small storage shed along with all of the yard tools.

A few points to touch on. Loctite Loctite is a specific thread locker brand name. Not all brands are equal or even use the same colors for the same strength. It is best to use the actual P/N of loctite since there are over 50 Loctite products and only 7 colors to go around. What is normally used in our applications is; Blue - Loctite 242 (Can be disassembled with hand tools) Red - Loctite 262 (Requires 400° heat for disassembly) Green - Loctite 290 (thread locker for already assembled fasteners) Green - Loctite 620 (Bearing retainer) (some use this as a permanent thread locker) It was only mentioned once but is extremely important. DO NOT GET ANY THREAD LOCKER ANYWHERE NEAR PLASTIC. Thread lockers will destroy plastic, it does not even have to touch the plastic, just the nearby fumes will do damage. Oil; Any brand will work if you change oil regularly. VERY IMPORTANT - The oil must be made for a motorcycle wet clutch. If it does not say for use with a motorcycle wet clutch, do not use it. Filter; I use the OEM filter. Tires; I carry a patch kit and an air pump. I get a new kit every year because they dry out and don't work as well when they get old.

The fuel sender is not very accurate for trying to calculate MPG. If you get a flow meter to put in the gas line you can get very accurate results. From the speedo and the flow meter you can do instantaneous and/or average MPG.

With a "regulated" speed in the city of 12.5 MPH Max. Panic stops may not be an issue, but you may get run over by not being able to get out of the way. It also has a max speed of 25MPH for "off road" use. Production starts January 2013!

To say the same thing another way. Since the ring gear is connected directly to the rear wheel it will turn at the same rpm regardless of gear ratio. since the pinion is meshed directly with the ring gear its speed will be directly proportional to the wheel speed. So the speedometer sensor needs to see 33 teeth go by to know that the rear wheel has made one complete revolution. If you have the stock gears with the 10 tooth pinion, the pinion will make 3.33 revolutions for every complete revolution of the rear wheel. in this same time and distance there are 33 gear teeth that went past the sensor. If you change to the vmax gears with a 9 tooth pinion then the pinion will make 3.66 revolutions in the same time and distance and there will still have been 33 teeth go past the sensor. If the sensor was reading drive shaft rpm then there would be a calibration issue, but it is not reading rpm, it is reading teeth, so there is no issue. I know that gear ratios are hard to wrap your head around sometimes. I hope this helps.

I figured that at some point this thread would head down this road......

I am kind of leaning that it was home made also. There are a lot of rough machining marks and there is no protective finish on the bare steel. It looks to be fully machined where I would expect something commercial to possibly be die or investment cast and have some kind of protective finish on it. I have not yet given up hope on finding something similar, Especially since DotCo does make similar tools.

Don't forget to drain the torque converter, it holds a lot of fluid. The quicker that you can get any water out of the trany the better. Any water in there is rusting away at all of the steel parts. This rusting can do serious damage in just a couple of days.

No such thing as to many pics.

Jeff; Dotco does have something like this but is specific to their own tools. The one I have fits all brands of die grinders that I have. Still researching fiberglass tools. Sling; I have sent them an email. Eck; It does look similar to that attachment but a drill press chuck is a lot bigger than a die grinder collet.

Their website is still there at http://www.sprayonchrome.com/index2.html. It sure looks like they are still in business, they list a 2012 DVD.

This is an attachment that clamps to the head of an angle die grinder so that you have a guide to use it like a router and follow a pattern. I have been Googleing everything I can think of with no luck. I have a sneaking suspicion that this was made up as a one off special item in some shop. If it is a purchased item then I would love find a source to buy a couple more.

It is a neat process. It is actually a real silver metal film that is applied to the part. Silver is not quite the same color as chrome so the clear coat that is applied has a slight blue tint to get it to look the same as chrome. It also is not inexpensive. The price of silver is up there. It would help if you could reclaim the silver that ends up in the bottom of that spray booth. I don't see it as something that the average person would get in their garage, more as something that a shop that does restorations or body work might get to offer as a service.

Thats good to hear. The nurse outfit and whips must be working......

That happened to a friend of mine. When his house was built someone put a rock in the sewer line (city sewer) that caused backup issues years down the road. It was determined that the rock was put there during construction because due to its size and location there was no other possible way for it to get there other than intentional. The contractor that built the house ended up paying to have the the front yard dug up, the driveway dug up, and all of the new landscaping done.

The theory is that as long as the unground side is the side running against the cam, it should be OK. I am also not planning to remove large amounts of material from a shim, maybe a couple thou at most to be able to hit in between stock sizes. Overkill, yes. Unnecessary, yes. Something to mess with in the cold of winter while PMS is doing its thing, yes. If I feel it is necessary I do have access to the stuff to redo the case hardening. I have many other uses planned for this machine. I will need an electroetch or chemical etch marker to mark the thickness after grinding.

Well I started the cleaning process today. Yuck, What a MESS. The oil passages in the ways were caked solid so even IF someone tried to oil it, the oil would have never got to where it was needed. I worked on it most of today and barely made a dent. The last "overhaul" was more of clean off some outside grunge and slap on a coat of paint. They painted right over the dried grease and built up grinding crud.

See if you can do this accurately. Read all the Numbers slowly and in Order Be Careful not to MISS ANY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Scroll down ............................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Scroll down ............................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . It's so easy to amuse Seniors TOMORROW I'LL SEND YOU THE ABC's

I'm thinking I really like my city sewer and water. But at least someone found a use for liver........

Go for it, I dare ya......... :stickpoke:

Could this be an indication of the stud breaking off of the pinion? From what I read it is most noticed on decel and is fine under load. But it is a thought. Its not that tough to pull the drive shaft and check it out.

Have you ever opened up your TCI to replace the diodes and seal it up? there are holes in the TCI that will let water in, a number of people have found liquid water in the TCI when they opened it to do the diodes. I have my TCI mounted inside of the left faring, the dust and dirt in there indicate that it never gets wet. The other solution is to stop washing it and if you get caught in the rain, don't stop or slow down till its dry. Works for me.......

Hehehe I get my 330 ohm resistors, diodes, and relays bulk from Digi-Key, way cheaper. But then I know you like going to RS. I may have to get one of those time delay relays just to play with.

I said zero even though I have a 1st gen. It is pretty much the same pump. I think.....