Flyinfool

A side stand on most any bike will not just fold up. Every side stand I have looked at uses the over center principal to keep the bike from rolling forward and off the stand. As the stand is moving back on its way up, it gets lower before it starts to go up. If the stand is down and you lean into a left turn, when the stand contacts the ground, first it will stop you from leaning any farther, then as it starts to move back and drops lower it will push the bike very hard toward the upright position. Unless you have both lightening reflexes and the safe space to switch from a left turn back to a right turn, you are going over on the right side of the bike. BUT, and there always seems to be one, all of the damage appears to be on the left side. If this was because of the side stand being down, the bike would have gone over on the right side. I watched a Harley do this in an intersection right in front of me once. It was spectacular.

Easy test, turn the bike on, if the side stand is down the red warning light should be lit along with the side stand graphic on the display. Start the bike, put it in gear with the side stand still down, it should kill.

Glad your OK. The worst part will be going up to the upper right corner and clicking on that "Donate" button.

Glad to hear. Save those tools for the next guy that does that. NOW DON'T DO THAT AGAIN.

I may need a glove to protect my hand, that is a lot of spankings.......

This is the converter that I have It is rated for both incandescent and LED trailer lights. Not all converters can do both, some are incandescent only and some are LED only. Some don't mention it so you have to guess. This one is also an isolator, this means there is one more wire to hook up, this wire goes to the battery so that all power for the trailer lights comes from the battery and not the bikes electrical system.

No extra credit but you do get Birthday spankings. Now, just how big is this Birthday you have coming? How many will fit in there is dependent on just how we stack us.

I'm in, if I win and don't have to bring the tent, I'll have lots of room for RUM balls. The tent fills 2/3rds of the trailer.

This is starting sound like what was the plan all along.....................

There is no combination of just wiring that will work. The bike is a 5 wire system and the trailer is a 4 wire system. The adapter that you got is correct. You need to add in an isolator/converter that will convert the bikes 5 wire to work with the trailer 4 wire. OR you can convert the trailer to a 5 wire system. there are pros and cons to having an isolator, I have an isolator so that the power to the trailer is not having to be switched and carried by the skinny little wires on the bike. Since you have another trailer that has a 5 wire system It might be easier to convert the first trailer to also be 5 wire. The difference is. On a 5 wire system the turn signals are separate from the brake lights. On a 4 wire system the turn signals and brake lights use the same filament.

The oil you used, Mobil 1 racing 4T 10W-40, is a motorcycle oil that specifically states it is for use with a wet clutch. It "should" be fine. But I have heard of some people having issues with full synthetic motorcycle oils that "should" work. It is possible that either you wore out the clutch back when it was slipping and or it got glazed while it was slipping. Remember there is only .008 inches of thickness between a new and a worn out friction disc. That is only .004 per side, about the thickness of a piece of paper. The only way is to measure each disc. Glazing is not always visible to the eye, a light sanding of all friction and steel surfaces will ensure no glazing. Fortunately it is really easy to service the clutch on these bikes.

IIRC there is a washer in the stack up that looks like it should go in the wrong place. when it is assembled wrong it locks things up. These clutches don't "just go out" My money is on a weak clutch spring that was slipping and then messed up the reassembly. It should just be a matter of taking it apart and putting it back right. The spring dies of old age, not mileage.

Running is better than a pretty garage queen. Broken plastic is a big issue, it is hard to find. If the 89 had the ignition module and coils replaced with new, that was well over $1000 at a stealer. But check the age of the tires. And they are both blue...... Watch out for Dan making a road trip to WI if he can escape the watchful eyes of the warden........

I have never heard of "aligning the clutch" either. I would question why it needed a new clutch at only 26K miles. Seeing as it is 17 years old, my bet is it was slipping so he put in a new clutch, its still slipping, and it just needs a clutch spring upgrade. I wonder if he had it apart and simply reassembled it incorrectly? Or the clutch is really just shot and this is the cover story, Or maybe the clutch is slipping and it just needs the spring upgrade and he does not know about that simple issue. Of course this is all pure guessing on my part. You would have to make that call once you are looking at the bike and talking to the owner. But don't tell him what the problem might be.....

It depends on what you call reasonable. http://www.satistronics.com/smd-5050-wateproof-flexible-led-strip-300leds-5m_p2236.html I have a red and a yellow spool. That's 10 meters of LED strip. I also have a bunch of other LED products to play with.

I got my package:dancefool: Got all of the new LEDs installed. All modes are a lot brighter than the incandescent were. I have to get a different LED for the Hi beam indicator. the one I got is to bright. I do not have to see the blue light in bright sunlight. I will get one that is less bright. The turn signals flash super fast as expected, some have said that they like the super fast flash so I figured I would try that first. I don't like it. I will add resistors to the turn signals to slow them down. Love how much brighter everything is. Lots of work to do yet.

Around here if you turn a flat rate box inside out they will not accept it. Even if you have all of their marking blacked out. I've tried it. UPS and FedEX also will not accept USPS boxes whether right side out or inside out and blacked out. I keep a collection of boxes from all of the goodies that I get delivered just to have for sending stuff back out. If you flatten them they do not take up a lot of space.

What do shelves have to do with a motorcycle lift???

I was worried about that the first time also. The exhaust pipes are pretty heavy on this thing, I was assured that it would not be an issue and it has not been.

Under normal conditions the friction plates may be good for 75K. Depending on how bad, long, and often the clutch was slipped before you replaced the spring can have a huge impact on the overall life of the clutch. It is possible to wear out a set of disks in 1 day with a lot of slipping. Also as mentioned, the choice of oil can have an impact on clutch slippage. When I did my spring upgrade I did the day after the first sign of slip, The only way to tell if the plats have life left is to measure their thickness. New plates are 3mm (.118 inch) thick, the wear limit is 2.8mm (.110 inch) thick. My plates were at .117 thick at 40K miles so I put them back in. If you are in there measuring them I would replace at .113-.114 which is 50% of life. The biggest things that will shorten clutch life are lots of parking lot driving in the friction zone, hard riding, and heavy loads like a big trailer.

I just checked, I'm still good for a couple of years. I must have gotten carried away with the great deal for just $12........

I have a SlipStreamer on mine right now. It does the job, I just have to be very gentle cleaning it. It is no where near as scratch resistant as the OEM screen (there are non of those to be found new). I think that the only screen that can compare to OEM for durability, is the F4 and they do not make one for the 1st gens. But if enough people call and ask for it, they may see a demand and make one. I have offered to send them my old OEM shield from my bike to use as a sample to copy. As soon as they make one I will be right there to get one. I'm hard on all windshields.

There is a VBulletin add on "VBGooglemap" that does just what is being described here. I use it on a flying forum that I belong to. Only forum members can access it. It only gives out info that each member puts there, or a link to that members profile. If a non VR member tries to access it, all they get is the the VR login screen. Unfortunately it is more work for Don to set it up.

You need to deliver it to my house and I will show you how to use it...... The 1st gen is easy, you roll the lift under the bike, close the valve on the lift, and pump the handle. It is the 2nd gens that need a special lift adapter.

I have owned both type fairings, I by far prefer the frame mounted. I learned very early on that no faring is just for people that will never leave town.