Flyinfool

The 12V resettable are no where near as fast tripping as the correct fast blow fuse. I have not seen specs but my experience is that the element can go nearly instantly, the resettables take almost a half second. I the world of electricity, a half second is almost forever.

the PCW and Skydoc kits are the same thing. They both have a spring that is a lot stronger than stock. I have the PCW only because I got it before SkyDoc started selling his kit. When it is the same part at a similar price, I always prefer to support our members. I have had it in for 4 years, pull a heavy trailer and no issues. As to whether you need to replace the clutch, you can not tell till you get in there. A new friction disc is 3mm (.118 inch) thick the replace thickness is 2.8mm (.110 inch) thick. I did mine at 40K miles and my discs measured .117 inch thick, so I reused them. But then I did do the spring at the very first time it slipped. How long you have been slipping will determine how much wear you have.

Definitely figure out why the valve is hanging before you try to turn it over with the starter. It could be crud or gum causing it to stick, could be a chunk of carbon holding it open, or a bad spring, or a few other things I am not thinking of right now. You might be able to remove the exhaust pipe an see some thing or get some cleaner right on it.

Before you consider trying to start that engine I would try to determine what the cause of the sticking was. If it was a valve strike condition, you could in a split second go from needing a new spring to needing a new engine.

Kydex is a fun material. I used to make crash bumpers out of it for Radio control cars, it can take a beating. When we were playing radio control soccer, the front bumper was made of Kydex heat formed into a "U" shape and mounted on the front of the car. the object was to scoop up about a 3 inch soccer ball and drive it into the opposing goal. Of course EVERYONE on the opposing team was trying to ram you to get the ball away and keep you out of the goal. The Kydex held up well to all of this abuse.

So with the massive amount of knowledge that you have gained here does that mean that you are are now full of it?

I also know from experience that if you really want just one new tire, there are plenty of tire dealers that will love to make the sale and don't give a rip about the health of your car. I am constantly amazed at how many front wheel drive cars I see riding around with the tiny space saver spare on the front, for weeks at a time, then complain when the trans-axle goes out.

But video could be priceless........

:sign yeah that: This also applies to the Murcury Mountaineer AWD. But at least the merc can handle up to 4 32nds difference.

I have no idea if the HID bulbs will fit your housings or not. I have a set of KC Hilights.

1157 front 1156 rear Super bright recommends installing one 6 ohm 50 W resistor by each bulb. That's 4 resistors! I used two 3.3 ohm 50W resistors, one for left and one for right. The resistor I used is from Mouser P/n HS50 3R3 1%. Back when I did my HID conversion I jumpered all 4 sensors in the CMU knowing that some day I would do the LEDs in the tail light.

The headlight is an H4. Mine has already been upgraded to HID 3 years ago. This is true. You have to do the jumpers in the CMU if you are going to change out the brake lights to LED. The CMU does not monitor the turn signals. Depending on my mood I use either PCB123, ExpressPCB, or Eagle. On this one I used ExpressPCB.

From your pic it looks like this HID gets it power from the original headlight circuit. First thing to do is check your headlight fuse. My HID pulls almost 20 amps to start, that would easily pop the 10A fuse on the bike. This is why most of the HIDs have separate power and ground wires. Plug your old bulb back in to be sure that the bikes electrical is still working. Take your old bulb and using an ohm meter figure out which of the 3 pins is the ground pin, it will be the one that shows a connection to both of the other pins. You can then test your HID by connecting that pin to ground and either of the other 2 pins to battery plus.

:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotf: :rotf: :doh: :doh:

I am in the process of making the conversion from 55W halogen to 35W HID. I bought a HID kit with H3 bulbs and will still have to modify my housings to make them fit. The H3 HID bulb is a little longer that the halogen on both sides of the mounting flange. so you need a housing with room on both side of the bulb.

In Wisconsin when you register a trailer to get your plates, If the trailer does not already have a VIN, the state will assign one that must be metal stamped onto the tongue. That way you can not use one plate on many trailers. Now if you feel lucky that the LEO that just stopped you will not check the VIN to the plate.

You may want to check here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=757849

Here is the list of LED bulbs that I used. (so Far:whistling:) All are from http://www.superbrightleds.com. Not the cheapest bulbs around but I have never been disappointed with their products. These are all far brighter than the incandescents they replace. In the dash; WLED-AHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Amber, Qty 2 WLED-GHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Green, Qty 1 WLED_BHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Blue, Qty 1 WLED-CWHP15-TAC, 194 LED Wedge Base Tower White, Qty 4 Brake lights; 1157-R45-T, 1157 LED bulb, Dual intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Red, Qty 2 Turn signals; 1157-A45-T, 1157 LED Bulb, Dual Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2 1156-A45-T, 1156 LED Bulb, Single Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2

Sure looks good to me. What is all that green stuff on the ground?????

Well I have finalized the component values, and placed an order for parts to be able to make 5 of my Horn Flasher Boards up. I have settled on a flash rate of 6.5 flashes per second. This is what looked the most attention getting to me. This will only work with LED lighting, Incandescents turn on and off to slow, they can not flash that fast. The final board layout is 1.125 x 2.5 x .5. I have it designed to be able to flash 4 separate circuits, I will be flashing the left turn, right turn, and brake lights. If the trailer is hooked up it will flash those lights also. I am planning to add a pair of 10W white LED driving lights near the front axle and will use the remaining flasher channel for those. Hookup to the bike should be fairly easy, one wire to ground, one wire to the horn side of the horn relay circuit, and one wire for each circuit that you want to flash with the horn. If you do not have a horn relay, you may want to add one. The blocking diodes are already built into the board so that the connected circuits will not interfere with each other. The flasher can handle a max of 35 total Amps with a Max of 10 Amps on any one channel. I am going to try out a process that uses my laser printer to make the circuit boards. If this works I can make the boards at home fairly inexpensively. If it does not work out well, then I will have to go back to having them made at a board house.

This should splain it..... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52757

In WI only trailers over 3000 lbs need plates. I do not have plates on mine and have not yet been stopped in any other state. But in WI if you wish you can get plates for lightweight trailers, when you sell a trailer in WI the plate stays with the trailer. I do not like this part since if someone decides not to register the trailer the plate will always come back to me if the do something bad. Like blowing thru Tolls on a toll road.......

The way I made my stinger was to drill a 1 inch hole thru the 1.25 sq tube, then weld in a tube 1" od x 3/4" id. This tube sticks out 1/8 inch on each side. Then on each side is welded a 1/8 thick plate with a 1" hole.

Well then you will need a metric and a SAE adjustable wrench.

Are you sure that longer is better?????