Flyinfool

Try this http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23860

Sorry to hear this, best wishes go out to all of your family.

Make sure all of the battery and starter cables have clean terminals both ends. Don't forget the ground side. just because the LOOK clean does not mean they are, clean them with a wire brush. Now that the battery has had a few hours of charge did that make a difference? What happens to the battery voltage when you press the start button?

Just a thought. Back in February Miles made a post about making sure you take good pics when you post a bike for sale. Maybe his pics are so "good" that the board is having issues with their size.

I just tried a couple and all of the super sizes opened just fine.

I found those grips as that is what my bike came with also. BikeMaster-Foam-Sleeve-Road-Grips-for-7-8-Bars I have a set of the 160mm grips coming tomorrow. I'll see how they fit the bike this weekend.

The new elbow is not expensive. That little nick did end up leaking on mine. AND fix the crash bar so that it does not happen again. I ground off and rounded the corner of the crash bar bracket that is hitting the elbow and then hit that with some "chrome" buzz bomb paint to keep it from rusting. I don't know it it will help or not, I have not dropped the bike yet to find out, but I was able to get almost another 1/4 inch clearance to the crash bar.

I just checked the ISO grips. The longest ones they have are 5.25 long. the grips on my bike are 6.25 long. What are you guys doing for the extra inch?

It is the last line of the whats included that worries me. If it needs to come with a spare switch, that means that they know this is a frequent failure point. Are additional switches available, for what cost, AND just how often do they expect the switch to fail? I am a bit of a light Junky, bigger is better, The ultimate flashlight for raw power that I have found is this one at 8,500 Lm. Now I just need to find 4 bills to blow on a flashlight just for fun ....

You will also want to run around 20 psi in the tires, this also helps to soften the ride. It is hard enough on your airplanes just having to put up with landing, you don't want to subject them to 5,000 crash landings on the way to the flying site....... SO now, What kind of aircraft are you carrying???? There are a few members here that have both the MC and RC addictions. I am looking at building a BIG box onto my HF trailer to carry my bigger planes. I will need 96" long x 40" wide x 30" high to hold my jet. It is a big box but will have very little weight in it (less than 100 lbs cargo) to go flying. I may build it with a V nose for less wind resistance. the jet has a kind of pointy nose to...... I am hoping to then get several aircraft plus gear in there to be able to take the bike to area fun flies within a 200 mile radius.

OK now you really got my attention....... The springs should be 2 leafs on each side, One full leaf with the mounting eye at each end and a half leaf, it is the half leaf that we get rid of. If you plan to carry RC gear, you want as soft of a ride as possible. Make sure that you flight box can not attack the aircraft. A heavy flight box is drawn like a magnet to a nice fragile wing. You need a bunch of anchor points to tie everything down good. Dont ask how I know this.

:sign yeah that: On my HF trailer the first thing I did was to add the HF LED tail lights, I never even installed the incandescent ones that came with the trailer. I am adding in a center high mounted brake light / running light. Wiring is not hard to make it act as a true brake light from the flat 4 wiring. I intend to add a bunch more LEDs to the trailer after I get done putting more LEDs on the bike. I did remove the extra spring since I will never get anywhere near the 8--+ lbs that the trailer is designed to carry. It was ok with the double spring but is noticeably smoother with the single spring.

Now that is interesting. I wonder if there was an oil passage cut between the two ports in the block off plate if that would alleviate the hard suspension????

The white light on the dash it to tell you that the headlight is out. On these bikes there is a device called the RLU (Reserve Lighting Unit). What this does is if it detects that the low beam is burnt out it will automatically switch to the hi beam and light the white light on the dash AND turn on the indicator on the CMU panel and make the red light flash. It also works the other way round, If you have the hi beam on and it burns out it will switch to lo beam and turn on all of the warnings. Now with all of that said, It is also possible for there to be a bad connection in the headlight system somewhere. Any brake in the wires will be detected as a burnt out headlight. It is common to have the hi / lo switch get dirty contacts and cause this issue. There is a thread somewhere with instructions on how to clean this switch, I have to clean mine annually. It is also possible to have a corroded connector somewhere or a bad plug on the back of the bulb. There is also the off chance that you actually have a burned out brand new headlight bulb. Check it with an ohm meter or continuity tester. If the bulb is out, (or the bike thinks it is out) flicking the hi / lo switch will have no effect.

:sign yeah that: You really do not want to go there......... It has ended poorly for those that have in the past. It is very easily worth the $12. That is all that matters. :icon_lurker: I'm sellin the popcorn for this one.

First make sure all of the cells are filled to the proper level. Top off with distilled water if necessary. I would give it a long slow charge, then hook an old headlight up to it to discharge it to 10V with the light on, and give it another slow long charge. Test it again. Charge it again. If it got a reasonable amount of time on the headlight test (at least a couple of hours) then take it in somewhere and have it load tested, most places will do this for free. If it checks out good then use it without worry.

I got more of make a real and honest attempt to get it out. IF those attempts fail then leave it in and hope it does not move to a location that it creates a hot spot. Antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors, and the plugs are either coated to resist corrosion, or made of corrosion resistant materials, it will not rust and/or dissolve away during the vehicles or your lifetime.

I know it must be me that did something wrong but I don't know what it is. In this posting http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=756012&postcount=20 I linked 3 youtube vids. I think added all three the same way, but the last one at the bottom is just a blue link and did not come in as a youtube window that you can click like the other 2 did? To be honest I was expecting all 3 links to just be a blue link like what the last one was. I just want to know what I did different to get the different results. I am so confused........:bang head:

Here are short vids to show the difference between the incandescent and LED turn and brake bulbs, with the 4 way flashers on. LED bulbs in one side with the brake light on. http://youtu.be/kf8XH4uJgGs. LED bulbs in one side with brake light off. http://youtu.be/LxE9idI9ZEU. This is a short vid of the bread boarded flasher that will flash all of the lights on the bike when the horn is sounding. I think that the flash speed may be a little fast, It might be more grabbing if I slow it down a bit.

With a tail wind.

I am betting that there are 2 pins in the exact same location for Hilrider. If you watch while the pins are loading you see it appear with a normal shadow and then a few seconds later the shadow darkens. Since there are 2 balloons the shadow is twice as dark. Of course this is nothing more than a WAG on my part........ I do not see a way to search for members by the GPS coords. Moderators do have a brown pin, maybe that means that they are full of ............

I am suddenly in need of the cap for the coolant overflow bottle on my 88.

The other possibility is that they are not using a linear regulator. It may be a switching regulator which can run very cool and efficient. With linear regulators, if you need 3A output then you will have a little more than 3 A input. The extra voltage is turned into heat to be dissipated. With a linear regulator, if it can handle a 20V input, regulating to 5V, that means that the device has to dump 15V at 3A, or 45W of power as heat. That is a LOT of wasted energy. With a switching regulator, if you were to put 20 V in to get 5V out, You would only need a little under 1 amp of input to get the 3 A of output and there is very little heat generated. In radio control aircraft it is rare to see a linear regulator used any more, they just wast way to much power and are very inefficient when you need any significant output power. The only problem with a switching regulator, (You never get nuttin for free) is that they cost more to design, more to build, and if the output filtering is not done just right they can leave ripple on either the input or output side that can cause other problems. Remember some of the radio interference issues with some of the early LED driving lights?

Hey they cant be all bad, they do have a wet T shirt contest...........

From what I can tell, There is actually such a thing as Google Wallet. BUT Google Wallet is NOT an escrow service. It is an app that you put on your smart phone to keep an electronic version of your credit cads that you can use in stores and not have to carry the physical card around. This is just like the scams that use eBay Escrow services, eBay does exist, but they do not have an escrow service. Ask him for HIS contact info so that you can enter it into the "Flyin Escrow Service" to facilitate his payment. And then send the money to me,,,,,,,,I mean the "Flyin Escrow Service"....... Reading about these scams always gets me back to http://www.419eater.com, this is a website dedicated to scamming the scammers, there is some funny stuff on there as well as tips on how to do it yourself.