Flyinfool

pull one of the battery cables an connect your volt meter from the battery terminal to the removed cable. It should read zero if there is no draw. The presets will show up as a draw, pull that fuse first. then go thru and pull the fuses one by one till the meter goes to zero. That will tell you which circuit is drawing power.

Did you check to see if something on the bike is drawing power and running the battery down?

Some good ideas here. I went out and measured the hole. It is .760 dia, just a hair over 3/4 inch or 19.3mm I'll do a reconosince run at the hardware store tonight to see what I can come up with. I am thinking of this type of plug. http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/9563k68p1l.png?ver=8850358 Or this type plug. http://images1.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/9750kp1l.png?ver=7918388 I can paint it to match and then just pop it in with the backside loaded with clear silicone and wipe off the ooze that comes out around the edges. Even if I don't paint it, no one will ever see it. both plugs are cheap enough even from McMaster, I'll just have 99 spares for my $3.50. As I work on stuff I am finding more and more holes from things that were mounted and removed.

Look at the bright side, If it is raining the farmer will wait for you.......

OK so much for the body shop idea, I just called a couple and it will be $650 to $1000 :mo money:

On the new to me truck that I just bought I have found that there is about a one inch hole punched in the roof for probably an antenna. I did not notice it till now. What is the best way to permanently patch that hole. Cosmetics do not have to be perfect since only someone over 7 foot tall will ever see it unless they make an effort to get up above the truck. For now it is covered with gorilla tape. I thought about just using a plug made for electrical panels and load it up with caulk, install it in the hole, give it a squirt of red paint and call it close enough. But I think I want it a little nicer than that. Plan 2 was to cut a plug to fit the hole and try to weld it in without starting the truck on fire, then add filler and paint. but this has the potential of making a mess. I am not real good at body work. Anyone have any other ideas, short of just taking it into a body shop?

YES Your board looks very clean. My board looked like that when I checked also. I replaced them anyhow since if any one of the 8 fails, the TCI is toast. AND they are 20 some years old and known to die. Save the pics to be sure that you put the new ones in the right way. The new diodes will most likely be a black cylindrical body with a silver band at one end, the silver band goes on the same side as the blue end of the old ones.

You could always file a PP claim. If they state a 15% restocking fee then they still owe you 9%. PP usually sides with the buyer. The fee that you are thinking of is a fee that is charged to a seller. There is no fee to transfer funds from your PP to your checking. Some sellers will request that funds be sent as a gift so that they do not have to pay the sellers fee AND since it was a gift and not a payment for goods or services, you can not file a claim against the person if they do not ship or the item is not as advertised.

Dats da one:thumbsup:

Replacing the diodes is a preventative maintenance thing. Once the TCI is dead, it stays dead. If yours is still working then we can get you thru the diode replacement procedure.

:sign yeah that: Yes you want the suspension compressed for that reason.

If this is just a flat bed trailer you may want to get a wheel chock from Harbor freight or similar to support the front wheel. If not a wheel chock, if the trailer has a wood floor you can screw down a couple of 2x4s. But you need something on the trailer to keep the wheels from sliding out to the side. Make sure that none of your straps are going over or touching plastic. You do want the straps to be compressing the suspension on the bike,

What good are those?

Check for a cracked trunk floor that could be flexing and moving. I read of one person that had a weld break in the trunk mounts.

I wonder how many clutches he goes thru in a year????

To tee off of the vent line will help a little but not much. The limiting factor is the size of the hole where the tube goes into the tank. By adding the Tee all you are really doing is shortening the length of the overflow tube to get slightly less parasitic drag from the tube length. It would be a lot of work for very little gain. The amount of gain may only be theoretical in size. And as has been mentioned, you will only pick up ~5 miles worth of gas. It would be a lot easier to carry one of the small sealed gas bottles with a quart or half gallon of emergency gas in a corner of the saddle bag. That will at least get you 10-20 miles. Then there is the safety issue of removing the expansion air space that was designed into the gas tank.

17 years ain't far from forever. Besides, its red........

I was specifically looking NOT for a 6.0. I don't need the power or the gas bill of the 6.0. My RV fully loaded is only 5800 lbs and I only pull it once or twice a year and then only about 300 miles. This 5.3 has more power than the 350 in my old truck. This one is exactly what I wanted to fill my needs. I only go thru a couple of arm loads of fire wood a year so it will haul all of the wood I need. I think it's around 7600 GVW. I like it.

The radiator does not have to come all of the way out. I am not completely sure on the right exhaust pipe or the t'stat housing since I did my starter "while I was in there" replacing the t'stat housing so the housing and right pipe were already off. At the time I just did the ground mod to the starter. If my new Deka AGM and 4ga wires do not eliminate the slow hot start then I will be back in there for the 4 brush starter.

Don only said he would draw the winner. He never said he would you who it is. Besides, I haven't been home all weekend for him to call.

Even though it is a cinema production, and many teens will spot that and go into denial mode, every teen should still see it.

Must be a tall fuse block. The kit from skydoc fits in the stock location.

It would fit, But I would have no reason to put it there, and no way to get it there or back out. At least not in one piece.

It took me 3 months of searching a 500 mile radius to find an ext cab, long box, 4x4, 1500, that did not have a 6.0l engine and was in decent shape. And then it was even red, a real bonus. This one is a 2011 with 10K miles. Still under factory warranty. The 4 low works well. When I got home I had to use it to pull out a stump. The tires dug 4 nice holes in my lawn but the stump came out.

It followed me home mom, Kin I keep it, kin I..........