Flyinfool

:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: Glad it was not an expensive fix..........

That's OK, I just use a lot of big words, I really don't know much either........ If you use the resistors that I gave a source for, you only need one for the right and one for the left. The resistors from most other sources you need one for each LED bulb you install so you would need 4 resistors to do the turn signals. With the resistors that I used you connect it with one lead to ground, and the other lead goes to the wire that goes to the turn signal bulb, Dark Green for the right and brown for the left, this can be tapped in anywhere on the bike that it is convenient, I did mine in the faring cuz I had it all opened and it was easy at the time. Under the seat where you tap in for trailer hitch wiring is also a great place. The turns do not go thru the CMU so there are no issues there. The tail and brake lights DO go thru the CMU so you will need to jumper the CMU to avoid the red warning light on a 1st gen.

I have no idea on why the name change, but Light Pros are the same people selling the same product from the same address and phone number as HID Country did.

+1 more I have the HID in my 88 and will never go back. There is no such thing as a plug and play for a 1st gen but the changes needed are no big deal. Make sure that whatever brand you get is a bi-xenon bulb. Bi-xenon means that you will have HID for both Hi and Lo beam. Some of the cheaper sets you give up Hi beam altogether or some have a halogen bulb for Hi beam. There is a writeup on the conversion. It sounds harder than it is.

Well it was getting a little warmer than what I like. I thought that since this is for very short intermittent use that I could get away with just using the ground plane copper on the board for a heat sink. I will need a little more heat sink than that. It is borderline OK but borderline is never good enough for me. With the full load of the bikes lights, It got to the point of being uncomfortable to touch (about 140 F) after about 30 seconds. I will get a small aluminum heat sink to add and it will be fine. I doubt I will ever lay on the horn for more than 30 seconds at a time.

Good luck on your interview. I finally got mine out today for the fist time. It sure does feel good. Even though the dust is thick enough to plow and plant corn........ My skills are certainly rusty as all get out. I never got close to dropping it but I do need more practice. I sent a half hour in a local parking lot using the painted lines as a guide to practice slow speed handling. then took a quick blast thru the park to get the feel for some medium speed curves. Then I had to beat feet home cuz it started to rain, all of the covers are still off the bike so there is a lot of exposed wiring that I did not want wet.

Progress!!!! Here is a pic of the first finished PCB for the horn flasher. Now to install it on the bike........

Idiot proof has never been achieved, The best you can hope for is idiot resistant. They just keep making bigger and better idiots.......

You said the same thing I just but with so many fewer words.........

I will have my Carb Tune, that always seems to be popular tool at any MD. I will also bring my electrical box for any wiring jobs that need to be done. Anything else that someone may want to do, post it up. Someone may have the needed tool.

Normally I run 87. Contrary to popular belief, octane makes the fuel burn slower. The lower the octane the more power the engine will develop, UNLESS the engine was specifically modified or designed to use a higher octane. Yes that means that you can actually reduce performance by running more octane than necessary. When the trailer is loaded to the max, and I will be at interstate speeds (70+) for an extended time, then I will run 89 or 91 to get rid of a slight knock that appears pulling a heavy load up a hill while at higher speed.

I think Dan needs one of those old suits of armor like the knights used to wear......

Or you set it to lean and wore out the piston and cylinder. It needs to set a little on the rich side. To rich fouls plugs once in a while, to lean destroys the engine. But they run so good when lean, till they die. tuned for max power is to lean and will destroy the engine. I use similar small 2 stroke engines in a high performance application, I lean them for MAX power, but I do so with the understanding that it will need a new piston, ring and cylinder by the end of the day, IF it does not blow up completely before the end of the day.

IIRC which don't always happen at my age....... The inside thread is a standard machine thread, this would allow a lot of different things to screw in there. The Left hand thread drastically limits this. Bottles of other non fuel compressed gases use the same thread but in a right hand version. This prevents you from using a low pressure regulator that is made for fuel gases on a high pressure gas cylinder. Most fuel gases are at 400psi or less, the high pressure non fuel gases are up to 2500psi. Your fuel gas regulator would not handle this pressure, this is why they need a different thread. The outside thread is specific to fuel gas tanks and not used for anything else at all so there is no danger of connecting something else and they can be a right hand thread for us mere mortals that have trouble unscrewing a LH thread.

First thing to do is forget everything you know about airplanes, It is different for helies. Those are both good to learn on but expect them to break when you do an oppie. Start with training gear and do not let it get any more than 6 inches off the ground. Your first 50 flights will last an average of 3 seconds each. This is normal. The micros have the advantage of being so light that they almost cant hurt themselves.

As long as you can put up with my marshmallow butt. It will take 2 or 3 gas stops to go the 180 miles. I get lousy mileage pulling the trailer, ya that's it, its the trailers fault. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

A LEO may take issue with a flashing light. If they can be wired for constant on and can handle the heat of constant on then they should work fine. You may want to email the seller since he says he makes up each set to order. He may be willing to omit the flash controller and drop the price a little. He should also know if you can wire them for constant on.

It was a great time last year and I am looking forward to this year. I did RSVP already. I plan to leave Milwaukee right after work on Friday and be there just in time to set up my tent in the dark. If you plan any projects or need any specific tool or stuff just let us know, some one will have it. I have a fresh bottle of rum to make my RUM balls..........

Yes an oldie but goodie. None of the 4 channel fixed pitch helies do very good out doors. They do not like wind. It does not take long at all before you will outgrow a fixed pitch and have to start all over with something better. You will learn a LOT more and faster with a small collective pitch heli. A very popular one to start with is the Blade MCPx, the older versions are fine for learning on. You are likely to wear it out before you need the power of the brushless version. I have flown mine outdoors in 20+mph wind, although as a beginner you will not be able to handle that much wind.

I am not sure of the length that I used, but I did get longer than needed and cut them to length, I might have even had to run a die down them to get enough thread length. I did use nylon lock nuts. On my bike one of the factory frame mounted nuts was stripped by the PO and there was already a nut added to the inside. It is a PITA to get your fingers and tools in there to get the nut started and tightened.

I now only buy the Indicator fuses from LittleFuse. This is a name brand fuse that also has a built in LED that will glow when the fuse is blown, Makes it easy to find the culprit without testing each one or pulling them out to look at the element.

Also make sure that your 5 - 4 converter is rated for LED. Not all of them are, and can do weird things when used with LED.

I just put these on my bike. www.motorcycle-superstore.com. You want the 160mm size. These are what was already on the bike and I was replacing them cuz the foam was worn out. They fit well, look good, and are comfortable to me, and they are CHEAP.

Normally you would think that. But if the problem is on the power side of the fuse, before the fuse, then the fuse can not protect it. At this point you would be relying on the 40 Amp main fuse. If the problem was drawing less than 40 amps then the main would not stop it either. Since the melting and wire damage is so localized, it was something that happened right there, most likely a poor connection at either the wire or the fuse socket.

It appears that the melting happened on the battery side of the fuses? Check your main fuse, you do still have one right? The 2 melted screw heads look to be higher up than the others, and it looks like a metal plate under the fuse block, could those screws have been longer and touched the plate on the back side? Maybe the screws were longer they were never tightened down due to bottoming out. A loose connection can make that kind of heat. You may have issues other than just the melted fuses. You need to do some sleuthing to figure out why this happened so that you can fix the real problem.