Flyinfool

I also know from experience that if you really want just one new tire, there are plenty of tire dealers that will love to make the sale and don't give a rip about the health of your car. I am constantly amazed at how many front wheel drive cars I see riding around with the tiny space saver spare on the front, for weeks at a time, then complain when the trans-axle goes out.

But video could be priceless........

:sign yeah that: This also applies to the Murcury Mountaineer AWD. But at least the merc can handle up to 4 32nds difference.

I have no idea if the HID bulbs will fit your housings or not. I have a set of KC Hilights.

1157 front 1156 rear Super bright recommends installing one 6 ohm 50 W resistor by each bulb. That's 4 resistors! I used two 3.3 ohm 50W resistors, one for left and one for right. The resistor I used is from Mouser P/n HS50 3R3 1%. Back when I did my HID conversion I jumpered all 4 sensors in the CMU knowing that some day I would do the LEDs in the tail light.

The headlight is an H4. Mine has already been upgraded to HID 3 years ago. This is true. You have to do the jumpers in the CMU if you are going to change out the brake lights to LED. The CMU does not monitor the turn signals. Depending on my mood I use either PCB123, ExpressPCB, or Eagle. On this one I used ExpressPCB.

From your pic it looks like this HID gets it power from the original headlight circuit. First thing to do is check your headlight fuse. My HID pulls almost 20 amps to start, that would easily pop the 10A fuse on the bike. This is why most of the HIDs have separate power and ground wires. Plug your old bulb back in to be sure that the bikes electrical is still working. Take your old bulb and using an ohm meter figure out which of the 3 pins is the ground pin, it will be the one that shows a connection to both of the other pins. You can then test your HID by connecting that pin to ground and either of the other 2 pins to battery plus.

:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotf: :rotf: :doh: :doh:

I am in the process of making the conversion from 55W halogen to 35W HID. I bought a HID kit with H3 bulbs and will still have to modify my housings to make them fit. The H3 HID bulb is a little longer that the halogen on both sides of the mounting flange. so you need a housing with room on both side of the bulb.

In Wisconsin when you register a trailer to get your plates, If the trailer does not already have a VIN, the state will assign one that must be metal stamped onto the tongue. That way you can not use one plate on many trailers. Now if you feel lucky that the LEO that just stopped you will not check the VIN to the plate.

You may want to check here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=757849

Here is the list of LED bulbs that I used. (so Far:whistling:) All are from http://www.superbrightleds.com. Not the cheapest bulbs around but I have never been disappointed with their products. These are all far brighter than the incandescents they replace. In the dash; WLED-AHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Amber, Qty 2 WLED-GHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Green, Qty 1 WLED_BHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Blue, Qty 1 WLED-CWHP15-TAC, 194 LED Wedge Base Tower White, Qty 4 Brake lights; 1157-R45-T, 1157 LED bulb, Dual intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Red, Qty 2 Turn signals; 1157-A45-T, 1157 LED Bulb, Dual Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2 1156-A45-T, 1156 LED Bulb, Single Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2

Sure looks good to me. What is all that green stuff on the ground?????

Well I have finalized the component values, and placed an order for parts to be able to make 5 of my Horn Flasher Boards up. I have settled on a flash rate of 6.5 flashes per second. This is what looked the most attention getting to me. This will only work with LED lighting, Incandescents turn on and off to slow, they can not flash that fast. The final board layout is 1.125 x 2.5 x .5. I have it designed to be able to flash 4 separate circuits, I will be flashing the left turn, right turn, and brake lights. If the trailer is hooked up it will flash those lights also. I am planning to add a pair of 10W white LED driving lights near the front axle and will use the remaining flasher channel for those. Hookup to the bike should be fairly easy, one wire to ground, one wire to the horn side of the horn relay circuit, and one wire for each circuit that you want to flash with the horn. If you do not have a horn relay, you may want to add one. The blocking diodes are already built into the board so that the connected circuits will not interfere with each other. The flasher can handle a max of 35 total Amps with a Max of 10 Amps on any one channel. I am going to try out a process that uses my laser printer to make the circuit boards. If this works I can make the boards at home fairly inexpensively. If it does not work out well, then I will have to go back to having them made at a board house.

This should splain it..... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52757

In WI only trailers over 3000 lbs need plates. I do not have plates on mine and have not yet been stopped in any other state. But in WI if you wish you can get plates for lightweight trailers, when you sell a trailer in WI the plate stays with the trailer. I do not like this part since if someone decides not to register the trailer the plate will always come back to me if the do something bad. Like blowing thru Tolls on a toll road.......

The way I made my stinger was to drill a 1 inch hole thru the 1.25 sq tube, then weld in a tube 1" od x 3/4" id. This tube sticks out 1/8 inch on each side. Then on each side is welded a 1/8 thick plate with a 1" hole.

Well then you will need a metric and a SAE adjustable wrench.

Are you sure that longer is better?????

Check the battery terminals from plus to minus with an ohm meter. it should be a very high resistance. If it is a low resistance unplug the Regulator and check again. If you still have a low resistance, then you have a wire that is pinched or rubbed thru and will have to track it down. The only thing that I can think of that jumping from a running car might damage would be the RR.

congrats on finding one you like. 38 is doable if you dress for it. Dress in layers. Good boots. good gloves. full face helmet. Close the dash vents close the vents in front of your shins. open the vents in the side panels to bring up engine heat. I have ridden my venture down to 20 degrees

one 6 pin for me.

All of the commercial stingers are going to be rated and built for at least a 200 lb tongue weight and a 2,000 lb trailer weight. This normally means that it will be solid and heavy. For the bike, the shorter the better. It is not to close until it hits something. I made my own stinger out of 1 - 1/4 square tubing with a 1/8 wall and I welded some reinforcements at the ball end, It is more than strong enough for a bike, I would not use it on a cage with a class I trailer. I do not remember which one off hand but one of the places that make hitches also sells a light weight stinger for use on a bike.

Andrew To bad we didn't get together, we could have ordered 2 and split the shipping. Let me know how it looks, I may upgrade mine to. but looking to try the cable upgrade first. I already did the ground wire upgrade and that did help.

Ummmmm....... There hasn't been an MD since they joined, at least not one I was invited to that I know of.......