Flyinfool

At least they got this one. I have had to blow thru a red light a couple of times when it was apparent the car behind me was not going to stop or even slow down. I watch my mirrors like a hawk.

There is a good chance you will need to replace everything rubber. Especially the tires.

If it measures zero, that means that it is shorted to ground. Having one winding shorted to ground would also agree with your ohm readings where one is lower, and agree with your voltage readings where one is low. With the stator unplugged from the RR the battery voltage has nothing at all to do with the AC stator voltage readings. I just bought a high output stator for my 88, If you want the old one that is working at the moment, once I can take it out, let me know. The stator and RR can damage each other, a bad stator can take out a RR and a bad RR can take out a stator. Depending on the failure mode of each.

I got my LEDs from SuperbrightLEDs.com. Mine are the 45 LED towers. They are not the cheapest, but do have quality stuff. I have thousands of their LEDs in various projects and have never had a single issue. When you replace the turn signals with LED you will have to either change the flasher unit or add load resistors. The running lights and brake / tail lights can be changed to LED with no issues. There is someone making a brake/tail light conversion that is made specifically for the RSV.

Besides, I know you will make it to MD one way or another, cuz that's where my rum balls will be..........

The 4 foot high paper back is the condensed version.......

Put me in for one in XL. If there is a color choice I prefer light colors other than white.

First you need to check the correct wires for voltage. Green is not the common. Black is the ground Green with red stripe is Low beam Yellow with green stripe is High beam. Although you did do a check from green to black witch is a valid check and the voltage seen is not correct. Also check the black wire with an ohm meter from the black at the bulb plug to battery negative. Should be less than 1 ohm It could be an issue in either the dash pcb or the RLU or a dirty switch. The 83 is a little different than my 88 so I can't help with where things are hiding.

Just let me know what you two decide and I'll see if I can work it into my trip.

Be careful with bleach. Bleach will dissolve stainless steel whether it be fasteners, pipe fittings or sheet metal.

That is correct. Pink to 86 Fused power to 85. The horn switch is providing the path to ground.

The signal to start the timer can come from any circuit that goes hot with the key in run. If you do connect to the headlight circuit then you can keep the HID off by having the HI / LO selector in the position that the relay is not connected to. But that still requires that you remember to turn it on in the daytime. Jeff, I will be coming down 41 and be in that area late Monday afternoon on my way home from the UP. There is no internet, or telephone, land line or cell, where I will be in the UP. Just trees and critters and peace and quiet. If you think that later on Monday would be a possibility let me know, I can then call you once I get closer to civilization.

I have a hunch that on the auto-gyro the blades are a bit of a PITA to set up so that is why they do not show them being set up. But then the auto gyro being a 3 wheel landing gear may end up licensed as a motorcycle for when it is on the road? The both look like they have 2 engines, one for road and one for air. I did notice that the propeller engine had to be started just before takeoff and that the propellers were not turning while driving. or maybe they have a transmission of some sort to select which drive. The engine may have to be off to change drive. Yes I want one, either one will do.

Just the fact that it was in the garage meant that it had to be a 1st gen, It obviously got there first to get the best parking spot......

Squid, let me know how that lead worked out for you. In WI they only refuse to take your money on Sundays.

OK here is the wiring to use the brake light to activate the HID. The wiring is pretty simple. On a 1st gen the brake circuit runs thru the dash so it is easy to tap into, I am not sure where the best place to tap a 2nd gen would be. Parts Diode - 1N400x (the x can be any number) available at Radio Shack Fuse and fuse holder - 20A fuse in your favorite holder. Relay - SPST NO (this is the standard relay available at any auto parts store. Assorted wire and terminals. Don't forget the short wire that goes from terminal 30 to terminal 86 of the relay.

Another thing to watch out for. I can not tell for sure from the pics, but it appears that the power for the HID is coming from the headlight circuit on the bike. The HID that I have pulls a starting surge of 15 amps for just a split second to initially light the bulb, then drops down to 3A to keep it lit. That 15A surge is hard on the switches in the stock headlight circuit. A stock 60W headlight only pulls 5A. Most (not all) of the after market HID systems have a separate power lead that goes to the battery for power and a separate ground wire. Mine is fused at 20A. I then added a relay to that power lead so the light does not turn on till I am ready.

That is neat to see a system that is still actually working as designed. The building that I work in was powered by a central steam engine back when they made carriages for the civil war. Yes this building is that old. There are still a few very scattered remnants of the pulleys and shafts for the power transmission system hanging from the ceiling. The old coal fired boiler is still here but no longer used for anything. The steam engines are long gone. When electricity was invented, they hooked a generator up to that old steam engine and this was then the power plant for about a 3 block radius around the plant, There was no other source of electricity available. There is a lot of interesting history in this old building.

Your not trying to keep up with the warped rambling of my poor demented little brain, are you? I am using the same relay setup that I had before with the blinking red light and a pushbutton switch. I just eliminated the push button switch and the led, the wire that used to go to the switch, now goes to the brake light wire with a diode thrown in for good measure. If you forget the diode the brake light will not turn off either, don't ask how I found this out. Not including taking the faring apart to get in there, because I was already in there for something else, it took all of 15 minutes to design and hook up. I also thought about wiring it to turn on the HID when the neutral light turns off. I'll have to work on a wiring diagram and parts list. Here is the info for the time delay relay. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=736209&postcount=5

Must be a 2nd gen thing........ What is this washing thing you speak of........ It sounds like a terrible thing to have to do. It also sounded like the bike did not like having it much either..........

OH NO!!!! There are so many ways to inflict bodily damage with a welder........ Can your new welder weld Titanium?

I have now redone my circuit to turn on the HID. I have it wired so that the first time the brake is applied, it turns on the HID, the HID then stays on till you turn the bike off. I found that even with the blinking red light I was forgetting to turn the headlight on occasionally during bright sunlight. I figure that I will not get far without touching the brakes to turn it on. Even though i did this on my 1st gen it should be easy to duplicate for a 2nd gen.

I have not tried it but it does sound interesting. I wonder if you could get a sample to try before having to drop the big bucks. It sure is pricey to try out. ABS is difficult to mechanically bond to. Almost all of the recommended adhesives chemically bond to the ABS by having a solvent that actually melts the 2 parts together making for a joint that is just as strong as the parent material.

If that "weld" lasted for a few years, a real weld will last forever.

Whatever you do, do not stop to take a pic of the cute little bear on the right, when mama is hiding on your left. I tried that once and mama did serious damage to the drivers side of my Suburban. I also found out that a POed mama can run 45 mph for about a mile. Never did get the pic, got to busy driving down that logging road.....