Flyinfool

NOOOOOOO!!!!!! You MUST use an oil that specifically states on the label that it is for use on a motorcycle with a wet clutch. The reason for this is that some of the additives that are used in car oil WILL make your clutch slip. I run 10w40 like the owners manual calls for, as for brand, they all are good, some may be a little better. If we are going down the brand road, let me get some :icon_lurker: :icon_lurker: :icon_lurker: You are just a hop skip and a jump away, theres no excuse to not make it to Maintenance Day (MD) to meet some of us "normal" folks.

But 6,643 is still not a Rocky Mountain High........:detective:

I use the PS4933 oil filter from NAPA for $6.49. It includes both O-rings.

I sure hope so......

The Bob Evans looks like a much better option for me. I will be needing a gas stop around there anyhow. To make it there by 10 would mean that everything goes smoothly with no traffic or weather issues or my marshmallow butt needing more stops than planned. We will be able to guess more closely as the time gets closer.

Tell mike to just give you a good goose and you will be up there in no time........ So just which part of the mounting are you having the issue with? Is it the part of getting your left foot up to the floorboard? The stepping up once your foot is there? Swinging your leg over the seat? Do you get on after or before Mike? Have you tried getting on from the right side of the bike? All of these things can make a difference in what you need to help you get mounted safely.

The 3AM start gets me past Chicago and into Indiana by 6am before most of the loonies are out. I'll have to do some figuring to see just when I'll be in the area and just how far out of the way it is.

It is always a good sign when you get called back for more. Best of Luck:fingers-crossed-emo

I am planning to leave Milwaukee at around 3:00 AM Friday morning. I might be heading thru around the time you folks are heading out.

I just fixed the same issue for a friend. It turned out that the fan blade was broken where it attaches to the fan motor, so the cold air could not get circulated and it would just ice up. I did a temporary fix with super glue till the new fan came in. The shipping for the plastic fan blade was a lot more than the part.

:sign yeah that: There is a lot more to this site than just answering questions. There are many good friends to be met. I have followed this thread from the beginning. If I do not have the answer I wnormally do not post, this is not like a paid manufacturers site where it is someones job to answer questions, this is all unpaid volunteers and some times it may take a day or two to get an answer. I went back and reread the whole thread. You only asked one question and then followed it up with a never mind a couple of hours later. All of your posting happened in one day, You have to give us a chance. Some of us still have to work for a living.

Sylvania claims that the ultra should last 150 hours where the standard headlight should last 800 hours.

I do not think that this one will do what you want. This is from their website. I think you were looking for an isolator for a 5 wire trailer where you have separate brake and turn lights??? This one appears to be for a normal 4 wire trailer that uses the same bulb for stop and turn signals, that also has white backup lights and or surge brakes. You may be able to do a work around to get it to function as you want, but it might be easier to just get one made for what you want. A quick look on line I did not find a 5 wire to 5wire isolator. The only option that I found was to use a 5-4 isolator / converter and then add a a 4-5 converter to get back to 5 wire. The benefit of this arrangement is that you can tap off between the converters and be wired for either a 4 or 5 wire trailer. Or you could whip up your own using 4 relays for the isolation. you will want to use high quality relays on the turn signal circuits due to the very high number of cycles that it will turn on and off while flashing. Use a solid state relay something like this on the turn signals. Or if you are ambitious you could whip up your own solid state one isolator and there might just be a market for it.......

The key locking inserts from McMaster are nice in that they require no specialized tooling. You only need the proper standard tap size and a small hammer.

They sure look interesting......:mo money:

I believe this is the pic you were looking for.

Good luck, have fun.

On blowing the dust off. I almost dropped mine this morning when my feet slipped on the frost covered grass while I was pushing the bike backwards out of the shed and up the hill. But OH MAN did it feel good to do the 22 mile ride in to work today even though it was only 31°F. It might even get close to 50 for the ride home. My skills set is rusty as all get out. I see some parking lot time in my very near future. Even my skills of pushing the bike out of the shed need work.

FWIW There was a recent story on the local news where they interviewed a person that used to be part of the HR department for a large corporation. She now works for the state in the unemployment office teaching people that are on unemployment about the interview process. She quit her HR job because she thought that some of the criteria used were very unfair. Some of the things that she mentioned; They will send someone out to look at the vehicle you drive in. A child seat means that you have small children and will be missing days of work to deal with illness or other child issues, a mark against you. Riding a motorcycle was also a red flag due to the potential higher health care costs because if you get in an accident, with the bike you are more likely to get injured than if you were in a car. Your vehicle must look like a reliable piece of year round transportation, An old junker that looks like a breakdown waiting to happen is a red flag but yet a new car is not a bonus. While none of these will disqualify you from the job, It will give another applicant that is equal to your skills the edge and likely the job. She did say that they still will hire a more qualified person, even with some of these other red flags. I may have had that happen to me once, rode my bike to an interview and did not get the job, the other person that did get the job had identical qualifications. Just some food for thought. Good luck. I know I hate interviews.

:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: Glad it was not an expensive fix..........

That's OK, I just use a lot of big words, I really don't know much either........ If you use the resistors that I gave a source for, you only need one for the right and one for the left. The resistors from most other sources you need one for each LED bulb you install so you would need 4 resistors to do the turn signals. With the resistors that I used you connect it with one lead to ground, and the other lead goes to the wire that goes to the turn signal bulb, Dark Green for the right and brown for the left, this can be tapped in anywhere on the bike that it is convenient, I did mine in the faring cuz I had it all opened and it was easy at the time. Under the seat where you tap in for trailer hitch wiring is also a great place. The turns do not go thru the CMU so there are no issues there. The tail and brake lights DO go thru the CMU so you will need to jumper the CMU to avoid the red warning light on a 1st gen.

I have no idea on why the name change, but Light Pros are the same people selling the same product from the same address and phone number as HID Country did.

+1 more I have the HID in my 88 and will never go back. There is no such thing as a plug and play for a 1st gen but the changes needed are no big deal. Make sure that whatever brand you get is a bi-xenon bulb. Bi-xenon means that you will have HID for both Hi and Lo beam. Some of the cheaper sets you give up Hi beam altogether or some have a halogen bulb for Hi beam. There is a writeup on the conversion. It sounds harder than it is.

Well it was getting a little warmer than what I like. I thought that since this is for very short intermittent use that I could get away with just using the ground plane copper on the board for a heat sink. I will need a little more heat sink than that. It is borderline OK but borderline is never good enough for me. With the full load of the bikes lights, It got to the point of being uncomfortable to touch (about 140 F) after about 30 seconds. I will get a small aluminum heat sink to add and it will be fine. I doubt I will ever lay on the horn for more than 30 seconds at a time.

Good luck on your interview. I finally got mine out today for the fist time. It sure does feel good. Even though the dust is thick enough to plow and plant corn........ My skills are certainly rusty as all get out. I never got close to dropping it but I do need more practice. I sent a half hour in a local parking lot using the painted lines as a guide to practice slow speed handling. then took a quick blast thru the park to get the feel for some medium speed curves. Then I had to beat feet home cuz it started to rain, all of the covers are still off the bike so there is a lot of exposed wiring that I did not want wet.