Flyinfool

I guess that was not it. Now it at least cranks but no fire. Back to schematics.

I am sitting in a rest stop in the middle of Indiana. On the way to Dons I had a. Intrmtent issue with the engine cutting out. I thought it was the sidestand swit h so I jumpered that out and all was good for the run to Quaker Steak & Lube. It was also good for the first 100 miles heading home. I just tooke the dash apart and jumpered the tip o er relay and it now starts again. BUT I don't know if this fixed it or is just the i ter itant showing its uggly head again. Wish me luck. As soon as I finish my drink I am gonna try for home again. I'll post if a.d when i make it. Or it dies all together.

I sure hope your bike is looking better by now. Will we see you tomorrow?

Watch close, some of the high power flash lights require a special battery. The special battery and charger are all separate parts. The technology is real close, there are some advertizing LED headlights and driving lights. I dont know if the have the beam patterns correct yet. I have not seen LED driving or head lights that are DOT.

AND we need BOTH of you to show up at the WI MD.

It is usually the "drive belt".

I spent a lot of time looking for this one last year and came to the conclusion that Wallmart no longer carries it. There are others around but a much more $$$$$$

It is possible, to get a small spark when connecting the battery, especially if the battery has been out for a while. There are filter capacitors in the radio and other computers that will pull a momentary surge when being powered up. This surge lasts but a split second and then the power draw drops to nearly zero. There are some things like the clock and radio that pull a very small amount of power to maintain memory when the bike is off, but that should not be enough to make a visible spark. It does not matter if it is the pos or neg, which ever is connected last will make the spark.

On my old truck I did notice about a 2 mpg drop in gas mileage when I had all 400 watts of lights on compared to running in daylight with no lights on. You could even hear and see the engine rpm drop when you turn on the lights. It does take power to make power. Power comes from the gas tank. I can see about the same 1-2 mpg difference with the instant MPG readout when I turn on all of the lights on this truck. That is a 5-10% difference, that is enough to save about 1 gallon per 1,000 miles. It takes a lot of little things to add up to make a decent savings. That is why I turn off the daytime running lights, its just one more little thing to save on.

Looks like my partner has changed from a yes to a no on the calendar, so it will be just me. By this time tomorrow I should be in Ohio

You could always just park in the HD area and no one will notice one more drop.

Cool Now we need pics........

Thats because there has never been a storm bad enough to use that name........

I will be bringing a batch of my RUM balls to add into the fun. If they make it past Friday night........

I am wondering if I will see him blow past me on the way to MD. We will be two 1st gens, a white one and a burgundy one pulling a trailer.

I was just trying to head off a problem before it becomes a real problem. After reading up on a copy of some pages from the service manual, this is weird operation is normal and the way it is supposed to work. When cruising down the road the computer will occasionally turn off the alternator to help save fuel. The computer will also kick it way up at other times and under certain conditions. this all lines up with what I was seeing.

I'm running out of places to put stuff so I must be getting close to being packed.........

I know it is a PITA. But it might be getting to be time again.........

I could never allow a broken anything to be dumped on someone else. I guess I am stuck with it till it is fixed in another 250K miles or so.

Also double check your oil level. It should be no more than half of the glass With the bike upright and level.

As long as it is supposed to do that I can deal with it, I just want to be sure that if there is a problem, I get it fixed while it is still under warranty.

Bobs last activity on this site was on 4-21-2013. Might have to rattle his cage.

I have a 2011 Silverado LT, 5.3L. When I first start the truck it is charging at 14.8 - 15.0 Volts. After a while it will instantly drop to 12.6 - 12.8 V. While driving it is either at the high or the low volts, It never runs in the middle at 13.8-14.0 like everything else I have ever owned. I was told that the computer plays some games with the alternator on these trucks. Is this High and low charge voltage normal? I am not basing this on the dash gage. I am using a good Fluke meter. I still need to buy a factory shop manual for this truck.

HEY! That crust on my bike adds character. And I grow crops in it.......

Whats a CB?? :whistling: