Flyinfool

DOH!!!!! To much time in the sun. George Thanks for that, Checking all of the connectors was part of the next step, but I did not know where they were, you explanations with locations will help a lot. Now if I can just post this once........

I agree with Dingy, those holes do look oval, If they are, would it help to put some green Loctite bearing retainer on the pins?

I am sure that this is electrical in nature. If it were fuel related the tach would not instantly go to zero, and the cruise would not instantly shut off and it would still crank with the start button. At this point I have the side stand switch jumpered, the kill switch jumpered, the tip over bypassed, the neutral switch bypassed, clutch switch jumpered, and the issue is still there. Every component that can give ALL of these symptoms at the same time has been removed from the circuit. A bad coil or TCI would not show all of these issues at the same time. The only thing left is a bad wire or a bad connector. everything else is either bypassed, jumpered or removed from the circuit. But then it is getting worse. So maybe soon it will fail altogether so that I can track it down. Bet ya never heard anyone WISH for a failure real soon........

I am sure that this is electrical in nature. If it were fuel related the tach would not instantly go to zero, and the cruise would not instantly shut off and it would still crank with the start button. At this point I have the side stand switch jumpered, the kill switch jumpered, the tip over bypassed, the neutral switch bypassed and the issue is still there. A bad coil or TCI would not show all of these issues at the same time. The only thing left is a bad wire or a bad connector. everything else is either bypassed, jumpered or removed from the circuit. But then it is getting worse. So maybe soon it will fail altogether so that I can track it down. Bet ya never heard anyone WISH for a failure real soon........

I'm not old enough for that yet........

Well it is not just the kill switch. Went to head out for a test run to day with the kill switch jumpered out. I made it a whole half of a block and the same. My emergency jumpers got me back home. The only option left is a bad connection or a damaged wire SOMEWHERE. Since it is intermitant, there is no sure way to test for the problem, so I now have to start designing and build my LED test board so that when it does intermit I can quickly look down to see which led is indicating an issue. Did I ever mention that I HATE intermitent issues more than Big Tom hates SNOW.

Look at all of the noggin lumps someone saved you......

:sign yeah that: Its not about brawn or weight, It is all technique to get the bike up on the center stand. I am not a small or wimpy person either, but I could not for the life of me get the bike up on the center stand. When I went back to the dealer that I bought it from I asked the salesman about it. He came outside and the bike just jumped up on center for him. He is all of 5'6" and maybe 120 lbs soaking wet with a lot of pocket change. Once he showed me how to do it, its nothing.

As long as there is no Green Bay Packer bike around.........

Now why would one park at a 2nd gen crossing to look for 1st gens???? Since the 2nd gens are now discontinued antiques, it is obvious that the trailer is there waiting for second gens.

If the oil is more than halfway up the sight glass, but below the top, it will not hurt anything. BUT you will get blow by out the breather and the oil will accumulate in the air filter box and make a mess. Center stand or on the wheels but upright makes very little difference, if you check it on the side stand you will end up way over filled. I check it on the center stand because it is very hard to check it while sitting on it. I put in 3 quarts and then start it and let it run for a minute or so to fill the filter and lines. I then top off to about 1/4 up from the bottom of the sight glass. If you ask 10 different people on this site you are likely to have 10 different answers on this one.

When I did my dash with all LEDs I wanted brighter so that I could see them when the sun is shining on the dash from over my shoulder. The one exception is the High beam indicator. I had a bright blue LED for that one but it was blinding at night, I had to order a less bright blue LED bulb. As mentioned it will take other wiring mods to replace the flasher, but it can be done. the 41R relay also has the starter cutoff relay in it, you probably want to keep that. I believe the sensor wires on the speedo are also used by the cruise control, so pulling those will also kill the cruise. Load resistors for the turn signals is not an issue as far as amps are concerned. The load resistors would only affect the current draw while the turn signal is actually illuminated. How much time does the turn signal bulb actually spend on. Not much. When you have the turn signal on the bulb is only lit 50% of the time, and then you actually only use your turn signals a few seconds at a time. Worst case is that they may be on for a whole minute while sitting at a red light. a typical turn the signal is only on for about 15 seconds or less. All of the other times you are getting the reduced amps of the LED bulbs in the running lights which are on all of the time.

Catch it, they are expensive........ Next time put a leash on it........

Time for some new shorts.......

57F is 3 degrees warmer than I keep the tstat set at. I would have opened the windows to let the heat in. we were in the 40s 3 days ago and will be in the 90s by weekend. My furnace has not run since April.

Glad you made it there with no issues. I assume that since you are going back for physical and drug test that the interview went well????? With the oil leak, I would at each gas stop, pop it up on the center stand to check the oil level. You would hate to seize the motor at this point due to lack of oil. I hope you are back to work real soon.

HEY! This is supposed to be a PG site. What is with using all of these 4 letter words....... I am still hunting for a replacement kill switch. Bike not going anywhere for a while.

I will look to see if I still have the wrench for that. I am not sure if it was in the tool box that grew legs out of the back of my truck or a different tool box. If I still have it, it will be a tight fit but I think I can squeeze it in there.

Sheesh.......

My 88 turns right around 4100 at 65 mph in 5th. Assuming that you were going at a common interstate speed limit of 65. Most trucks do real close to the speed limit. Then to go from 4100 to 6500 rpm is an increase of, 6500 ÷ 4100 = 1.58537, so 65 MPH X 1.58537 = 103.05 mph. Or as Yammer Dan would say, "Time to start thinking about shifting out of 3rd"

$1500 to preorder and they do not even have a working prototype yet....... :mo money:

Looking forward to it. I will bring my carb tune and my electrical stuff box and a box of RUM balls. As long as there is a semi level spot to pitch my house.... errr tent. I will be fine. I sure hope I get my gremlins out of the bike before then.

Sorry, I assumed valve covers.

The kill switch does have a wiping action on all of the contacts. When I was having the problems the very first thing I did was to vigorously exercise the kill switch. That did not help at all. There is no sign of heat on any of the switch contacts or the plastic around them. The more I think about it the more I think it is going to be a flaky wire or connector in the harness somewhere. The switch is definitely broken so I will fix that first, IF I can find one. Tomorrow I will find out if my repair will hold at all. Bakelite is not real good to glue to, and then there is not much surface area to work with. I cleaned it and roughed it up as best I could and JB Weld is a pretty good epoxy.

Nice job.......I mean shame on you........