Flyinfool

On mine the pin at the top of triangle that goes into the red part of the rocker is broken off. There is a pin on the white part and a pin on the black part that go into each side of the rocker to act as a hinge for the rocker to pivot on. I even tried to drill and tap a #0-80 hole to put a tiny screw to gold the broken pin on. That part of the switch is Bakelite and did not like the tapping process, the pin just disintegrated into dust. I even tried to make a new pin out of aluminum to screw to the base but that was also to brittle to machine. PM sent

And he missed the other 3 areas that are still to this day disputed borders between the USA and Canada.

Did you have the battery load tested while it was charged and out of the bike? A junk battery can show 12.6 volts with no load but will drop way down with a starter load. Since the starter will crank when you jumper direct from the battery, just turn the key on and jumper from the battery direct to the starter and it should start. That will at least get you home with it. If this does get it started, that really narrows down the possible problems.

There is this same protocol used on a different forum that I frequent, I have been trying for years to get that other forum owner to change to like what this forum was. Having used both systems for many years I can say that I do like the way this one was before the change much better.

I need a kill switch for my 88 standard. I checked a bunch of places and the switch does not come separate, but only as part of the whole switch assembly. that assembly is discontinued and not available. I do not need the whole switch assembly from the right handle bar just the kill switch. Actually I only need the black plastic piece that the two red with white stripe wires are soldered onto. there are 3 contact pads on the other side. If it matters mine does have the factory cruise control in that housing. I have also determined that the kill switch from a MK I that did not have cruise control is completely different.

OK here is what I found so far. As mentioned earlier, the hinge pin for the kill switch was broken off so the switch was wobbling and possibly not always making good contact. The clutch switch never worked since I bought this bike 6 years ago. In disassembling it I found that it was frozen halfway between in and out so it was making the connections for the bike to run, but not breaking the connection for the cruise. The clutch bushings were worn enough to not force the switch all the way to either end of its travel. There is a smaller black wire that comes of of the NEG battery terminal and about 3 inches later goes into a single pin connector, I believe this one goes to a frame ground somewhere. That single pin connector had gotten a dose of battery acid at some point in the past and it is well corroded. The red white wire that supplies power to all of the affected circuits had a weak crimp to the terminal in one of the connectors, a gentle tug removed it from the terminal. As long as the bike is all apart I will replace the Main fuse with a Maxi Fuse. Repair the clutch switch and bushings. Eliminate the corroded connector in the frame ground wire. Solder all of the terminals in the connector that had the weak crimp. Then I can put it all back together, remove all of the jumpers and bypasses and wiring butchery that was done to get home, and while trouble shooting, to return all safety circuits to proper operation. and take a test ride with fingers crossed. So tomorrow I get to start tracking down parts to order.

A lot depends on if you have a lift, and id the bike has a lot of addons that might be in the way. But 3 hours is reasonable if you have never had the wheel off. 1.5 hours once you know where you are going. Even though you can do it taking off only one muffler, to me it is far faster and easier to take them both off.

Sorry to see that. The effects of brake fluid on plastic is well documented. Washing it off once the damage has started will not stop the damage, the bad spot will still continue to grow because the brake fluid soaks into the plastic and just keeps eating away. Sorry to say I do not know of a way to neutralize it and make it stop. When I work on the masters I use a plastic sheet and a bunch of towels to be sure that I get no brake fluid on any plastic. As soon as the masters are sealed back up and I carefully remove the towels and plastic sheet, I then flood the area with water just in case a drop got by.

That depends on if the fence is supposed to keep the crazies out or to keep them in so that society is not exposed to us.....I mean you crazies.

There is a tilt sensor on the first gen, I have it disconnected to eliminate it as a possible source of this problem. I now have EVERY component that could possibly cause this either jumpered or disconnected to eliminate it as a possibility. The only thing left is the wiring its self or a connector somewhere in the wire harness. That is this weekends project. Because this is very intermittent all I can not actually test anything, all I can do is try something and then go for a test ride to see if the problem comes back, and hope I can make it back home if it does.

Running from him would be easy, it is a Harley after all, just don't try to outmaneuver him in a parking lot......

The solenoid is on the left side of the battery. Clicking is usually a sign of not enough voltage present to turn over the engine causing the solenoid to click while trying to start. If it is clicking and not cranking with a jump, there are only a few options left. 1. bad starter. 2. bad solenoid 3. corroded or bad connection 4. jumpers not making good contact at both ends. First make sure that the jumpers have good connections to the good battery and to your bike battery. If it still clicks, move the ground jumper cable to a bolt on the engine block. If it still clicks, then hit the pos wire terminal on the starter motor with the pos jumper cable. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE, IT WILL MAKE A BIG SPARK AND THE BIKE WILL CRANK REGARDLESS OF WHETHER IT IS IN GEAR OR NOT OR ANY OTHER SAFETY. If it still does not turn over call a tow truck or a friend with a trailer to get it home, You have bigger problems than you can fix on the side of the road. We can still help you fix it, it is just better done at home and may take a while to properly diagnose.

The ones marked as sold do not show a price, some of the unsold ones do show a price.

Sorry, but with LED it is always best to match the bulb color to the lens color. A white bulb puts out all colors of the rainbow and the lens filters out all of the other colors, but the color you want, in this case red, all the rest of that light energy is wasted and will never bee seen by anyone. By matching LED bulb color to lens color, you will get the maximum light output.

The difference is Chi town is trying to kill ME, Bangkok is not.

Even more interesting is they have no "W" up there .......

You do have to do some passenger training. This may still require the room with the mirrored ceiling. At low speed or stopped the passenger must sit still, or you will need that vid on picking the bike up. At speed the passenger is not heavy enough to make much difference if any. There is a vid around somewhere that shows a bike modified with a second set of handlebars bolted to the frame so that the driver can not make unconscious minor tweaks to the steering, to show the effects of weight shift alone. This was on a crotch rocket type bike. With the driver hanging way off to the side like one would expect a racer to do in the corners, the bike just barely made a slow lane change.

Yup If it wont go chrome it.

Are you talking about the sheet metal retainer is cracked or the casting that the pins go into is cracked? If it is the casting that is cracked, there is a new version available that does not use pins and will be a permanent fix for this problem.

So thats where I got it from. I'll be sending you the bill.........

Be sure to study for those tests.......... Wishing you the best.

Any chance of getting a magnet in to the oil pan to fish it out? Is the bottom of the oil pan shaped smooth enough that the pin could find its way to the sump and be fished out from there with a magnet?

Say it isn't so.........

I do not think it is the ignition switch. The headlight, fan, and turn signals do not go out and they are all on the same contact. but then that brown wire out of the switch does branch out to 5 different places. Where ever that junction is located between the switch and the fuse panel may have an issue. I'll add that to the list.

Even 131,000kms is not considered real high mileage on these bikes. that is only 81,400 miles.