Flyinfool

I do not know how much the AD actually draws, But they are on the biggest fuse on the bike ay 20A. I will have to measure to see just what they draw. I still do notice a good dip in the voltmeter when I apply the brakes, I do have LED brake lights.

Ok, I'm still interested. How much for a set for a 1st gen MKII? Shipped to 53110 Will your set have the #10AWG leads crimped into the Positive and negative battery leads like the OEM wires?

Best way is add a jumper from a pad on one side of it to a pad on the other side of it. Second, see if you can figure out what circuit it is. There may be an issue on the bike that caused it to act like a fuse.

Before you put it back together. Clean off all of those little balls of solder. You don't want them to find a new home by themselves. There is a burnt looking trace in the upper right hand corner, Check that out to be sure all is good there.

I did read it careful Sure sounds like a photocell is required to me. Now that legal is out of the way. First check to see if your modulator has a wire or connector to switch it on or off, this would be my first choice. To wire it to what you want, use a relay with its contacts connected to the input and output of your modulator. Connect a switch and a fuse to the other two terminals of the relay.

By law you are supposed to have a photo switch that will make that change automatically. All of the headlight modulator kits that I have seen come with the required photo switch.

Are you sure that your sweet and innocent puppy will not eat the Aussies too?

A popular place to mount driving lights is on the horn brackets. I found a neat set from KC Hilights that is focused in between driving and fog lights. They do a real good job of lighting up the shoulders to see deer coming at night and still throw some useful light down the road straight ahead. I plan to convert mine from the 55W halogen to 35W HID.

I'm still really bummed that I could not make it. Glad that you all had a good time (even without the RUM balls:whistling:). I am planing on making it next year.

You will also need a snap ring pliers to get the hub apart.

YET!

You can weld it all back together. As mentioned I would add some reinforcement, I would also check the other side real close for any cracks. I don't think that the handling issue can be caused by the trunk rack being loose. Check all the stuff mentioned above.

first question Does a 2nd gen still have a waist spark? If so then you could switch wires so that the coil in question is firing a different cylinder. This will confirm if it is ignition or fuel related.

It would be easy to wire up some LEDs to the primary side of the coil. But that will only tell you the the TCI is sending a signal to the coil, It would not indicate whether or not the coil fired the plug. Now just off the top of my head without really thinking this thru;;;;;;; You could make up a sensor for the spark by putting several wraps of wire around the plug wire and running that thru some sort of regulator, maybe a zener or avalance diode. It would take some experimenting and possibly a few blown diodes to get the number of wire wraps around the plug lead just right.

If we are your "sanity", you are in deep trouble.........

I'll bet you can not call him anything he has not heard before.....

Sounds like your buddy should pack a spare belt and enough tools to change it.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69 There are more writeups somewhere.

If I eat ALL of the rum balls and THEN work on the bike I may end up with a truly unique bike.....

A kind member her had the replacement kill switch that I need that is no longer available from Yami. All of the parts that I think I need are now sourced and ordered. With the 4th holiday coming up I likely will not see them all till the following week. In the mean time I can repair the wires that need repairing, and clean and add dielectric grease to all connectors that I can get to while the fairing is apart. In 2 weeks I can go out for the next test ride to see if I have fixed the issue.....

I called every Yamaha dealer in a 150 mile radius and not one has the parts I need to make it to WI MD. Brian has the kill switch that I need and I should get that sometime next week. So I had to mail order the rest of the parts, they will be here the week after the 4th. That gives me plenty of time to fix some other things that need fixin, "as long as I'm in there" with the faring apart. I am really going to miss not making MD. Now I will have to eat all of these rum balls by myself.

The bike is scattered everywhere and I am still shopping for parts. Unless a miracle happens today I will not make it to Orlins.

On mine the pin at the top of triangle that goes into the red part of the rocker is broken off. There is a pin on the white part and a pin on the black part that go into each side of the rocker to act as a hinge for the rocker to pivot on. I even tried to drill and tap a #0-80 hole to put a tiny screw to gold the broken pin on. That part of the switch is Bakelite and did not like the tapping process, the pin just disintegrated into dust. I even tried to make a new pin out of aluminum to screw to the base but that was also to brittle to machine. PM sent

And he missed the other 3 areas that are still to this day disputed borders between the USA and Canada.

Did you have the battery load tested while it was charged and out of the bike? A junk battery can show 12.6 volts with no load but will drop way down with a starter load. Since the starter will crank when you jumper direct from the battery, just turn the key on and jumper from the battery direct to the starter and it should start. That will at least get you home with it. If this does get it started, that really narrows down the possible problems.