Flyinfool

There are also a lot of codes that have no effect on drive-ability or safety and can be ignored till you have time to deal with it.

Ohhh do I have a nice package of gremlins just about all rounded up to send your way....... No one up here will let me give them back...... The dash voltage gauge is not real accurate, Get a digital voltmeter on there.

So do I......

I only let certain people hold my rum balls.....

I tried to place a WARNING

How do I go about getting my house robbed like that........

It is just like treating cancer. You remove the damaged material and then some more just to be sure.

Be careful. Yes it will pull the front wheel in first, second and even third if you hit it just right. I learned this by accident while explaining the acceleration of 26 year old technology to a new Hardly.

If you buy one made for DC the clamp ons work quite well. We now have one in the lab at work cuz I told them I......errr.....they need it. The last place I worked at we used DC clamp on meters all the time. Sure beats breaking the circuit and hoping that the inrush does not pop the fuse in the meter. Tested against my Fluke connected in line, it is dead on. As to how they work. WARNING Technical stuff to follow......

I am not a morning person, so the ride into work takes about 45 minutes on either the bike ore a cage. But the ride home takes 45 minutes in the cage and 2-3 hours on the bike. I just cant figure out why the difference.......

Well it is going back together, slooooowwwwwly. I did get it started tonight and ran it at idle for a half hour with no glitches. I still have my 3 emergency bypasses in place that will stay in till the road test says its good. I still have to put the front end back on the bike before I can road test it. But at least it is running now:thumbsup:

Not yet, I hope to attempt starting it tonight. If I get that far then I can get the measurement tomorrow.

There should be 4 of those copper coils. It is the ends of those coils that are often an issue. Just resolder all of them. Also resolder all of the connector terminals. Because of the number of issues that you have it is more likely that your issue is the ground connector pin. To do the resolder, you want to add a bit of flux made for electrical, NOT plumbing. Heat the joint enough to melt the solder and add a bit of fresh solder. I like to use the silver solder from Radio Shack and the Flux. Use a small soldering pencil, 40W MAX. If you ever plan to install LED brake/tail lights or an HID headlight. Now would be a good time to jumper the board while you have it out.

In keeping with being a cheapskate, like me. You can always get the HF 40 x 48 with 8" wheels, put on your Thule and keep your eyes open for a bigger car topper, then still sell the Thule once you find the topper you like. There are a lot of car toppers on Craigs list. I found one that was free for the hauling and it has worked perfectly for the last 3 years. The HF trailer is a little wider than my bike, but not a lot, I adjust my mirrors so that I can just see the tops of the fenders to help keep track of where the trailer is. I guess the extra width was never an issue to me since every trailer that I have ever owned was wider than the tow vehicle. You just have to pay attention to your driving.

Once you get the CMU out, it is only another 20 minutes to do the repair soldering.

+1 more on the PT 2 x 8 or 2 x 10. even PT ply will not last near as long as lumber. The PT lumber will get lighter as it dries. Zinc plated hardware is not recommended for contact with PT wood. Stainless or hot dip galvanized are recommended. http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/ptwoodfaqs.html#

But the question is, do they actually have them in stock. I would hate to send a PP payment now for something that will not be in stock till almost October. The web site shows out of stock till 9-28.

But it looks like the spikes are on the outside of his feet....... Hid dad did mention that he is new to the business and has a lot to learn. I have to agree though, I would have found a way to climb down without all of the attention. It sounds like he was cutting the branches below his feet????? Otherwise he had to climb up there on the cut off branches????? A tree trimming business that does not have a ladder to reach that high?? Does not have enough rope to tie off and slide down the rope?? Sounds more like someone was after some free publicity.

If the reservoir was empty then there may have been some air in the system reducing the cooling capacity of the system. It is also possible to have an air bubble by the sensor for the thermostat causing a lower reading. When in heavy stop and go traffic it is common to get hot enough for the fan to come on, the fan usually comes on while you are stopped or going very slow causing no airflow through the radiator. The fan pulls a lot of power as does the brakes and at idle the voltage may drop causing a weaker spark and poor running.

You have to watch Sirius, sometimes the web site says out of stock but they have sets up on ebay. other times there are no sets on ebay but the web site has them in stock. When I got mine there were none available on ebay or their website, I called and pleaded and whined a lot and they managed to find a set. But I see on the website that they no longer take phone orders. Still cant hurt to try.

Welcome back. We will go slow enough for you to keep up and to answer all of your questions........

I have one on my trailer. I had to make a controller so that it would work correctly as a center brake light. The adds are a little misleading. It does not have a true brake light function since there is no brake light wire. It can be a 3 light running light with brake light OR turn signals, not both. On most bikes the turn and brake lights are different bulbs. This means that you can choose either turn signal OR brake light operation, not both, unless you add some electronics to mix the functions. On 4 wire trailers it will only mimic the stop turn lights, OR with some electronics can be center brake light.

My fan will kick in often if doing a lot of stop and go city driving, even at 50 degrees. My fan comes on just before the temp gauge gets to the red and will shut off at around 2/3rds on the gauge. If its over 100 it does the same thing.

Good timely reminder. I just snagged the clamp on amp meter from work to take home with me tonight. Now whether or not I can get enough of the bike back together to take the measurements is another story.

I intend to replace the main fuse with a MAXI Fuse. I am going to eliminate the connector in the neg ground pigtail. Mine got acid on it and is corroded beyound repair. I will replace with a but splice. I use the splices with the built in adhesive lined heat shrink. So for both of these I just need a chunk of 10 AWG wire. The extra "accessory" pos wire is a nice touch.