Flyinfool

The valves on this engine get tighter with wear. If they are actually tight then all you can do is to try a shim that is smaller by what the clearance should be and remeasure, by going smaller by the amount of clearance you need you might get lucky and hit it on the first try, not likely but at least possible. I cant help you with the timing marks.

It is only early morning of a day with no food and I am already cranky. I missed breakfast. A bowel of Jello chased with some apple juice is just not the same as real food. I am sure I will get worse as the day goes on. I mixed the first batch of the Moviprep this morning so that it can at least be cold when I start with it right after work. A predicted temp in the mid 90s with a heat index of 105 will not make me any more pleasant to be around..... Even the dog is keeping her distance today, she knows something is not right when I do not eat proper, also means she has no plate to lick.

Or the obvious; FRIMAN

:sign yeah that: Looks like you just need to reattach it and then be careful putting the screw back in. I would fix it, not scrap it.

The article said loud vehicles.

It is not always the dealer. There is a local dealer here (many years ago) that once sold a V65 Magna to a first time rider, they tried everything to get him to accept some instruction before he ever got on his new bike. But the young mans pride could not let him admit that he did not know all that there is to know. He made it about 100 feet out of the lot before the front wheel came high off the ground and he went thru a cyclone fence. He lived but it was not pretty. A local Harley dealer offers a free MFS course with a purchase and before pickup. They can offer but there is no way to require it. There are some (not all) dealers that try to do the right thing. As you say dollars are the bottom line, even the good dealer knows that if he refuses to sell you the bike that you will just head down the street to the next dealer and buy it, and the only thing that will have changed is that a different dealer got the money. Buy making the sale he can at least try to get you to understand the need for training. I know I was surprised at how many riders do not have a MC endorsement or even a learners permit. They just ride with no license. They refuse to go thru the process because learners are required to wear a helmet, once you get your license the helmet requirement is gone. Helmets are for geeks......not men......

And that is the abridged Readers Digest version.

I don't know if those are actually blue or just the picture makes them look blue. But blue lights will get you a talk with the nearest LEO around here.

Here is where I am heading on a "carrier" rack. As shown it is 13 lbs of aluminum for the frame, with a 30 lb finished weight. I may change all of the sheet metal sides and bottom to perforated or expanded metal to save some weight. Granted it won't be able to carry much more than a small sub sandwich when on the back of the bike. But it will also mount to the trailer tongue and then double as the cooler carrier. I have room to move the box on the trailer back so that the tongue weight will be correct. I am still in the early design and planning stages of this. As drawn it is 21" square and 12" tall. It can not be made to much smaller and still fit everything in there.

Yes I have a laptop and wifi. It will be an interesting chat room for sure. If anyone shows up. I promise to keep the camera covered..... At least no one will be asking for pics in this thread.....

That is what a starter clutch sounds like. No matter which solution you pick he will need a puller. I got my flywheel off with a $15 harmonic balancer puller. I have the Dano mod on mine, it has been flawless.

That was quick, Chat is back.

Just the concept of that 17,000 foot long fire hose is scarey enough. I am more afraid of that blue and white box on the table.

It seems that chat is down again. I get;

Is the motor seized from sitting a log time, or did it seize while you were riding, or did it just no longer turn over? First ting is to get a wrench on the crank and see if it moves. If your lucky it could be a starter issue.

It is that time in my life to face the music. I have procrastinated as long as possible. My normal diet has been screwed up all of this week. Only 2 cups of milk per day, no legumes, no corn no nuts, only bland food, not even anything with fiber in it. I can't even have ice cream. I have the innocent looking blue and white box sitting on the kitchen table. Yup you figured it out by now, the dreaded Moviprep. I get to start the first wave at 6:00 Thursday, last dose at 3:00 am Friday. Then figure out how to get to the office by 7:00 am Friday. I guess I will be online all night Thursday, I sure ain't gonna get no sleep. To fall asleep would be terrible. Reading the label on the box it lists as a "possible" side effect, yup loose bowels. Possible, really, just possible..........Side effect???????

A carb sync should have nothing to do with gas smell. Just a couple of WAGs; Check for a gas leak. Float adjustment. Gas tank filler cap seal.

Zero gravity? The front wheel does tend to float up off the road at times.

Maybe you need tire chains or knobbies for the ride up.

I will keep that in mind when I decide to repaint the whole bike a few years from now. Thats cuz people think their legs look good enough to eat.

After reading all of the suggestions from everyone and sleeping on it, My thought is that I have a crud issue. If after a 25 ride home all of it in city traffic and none of the rotors were to hot to touch, this in my book rules out a dragging caliper. If something was dragging that rotor would be WAY over what you can hold your finger on. since the change comes and goes randomly it must be dirt somewhere it should not be that is blocking and unblocking something. A heat issue would not come and go in the distance of a city block. I had already planned to upgrade to SS lines at the next fluid change. I was still undecided as to whether to de-link. Remembering back just a couple of weeks ago I nearly dumped the bike when I used the rear brake only to come to a complete stop on damp dirt that had some moss or alge on it and the front wheel locked up momentarily. So the plan is that the bike is telling me it is time to spring for the parts to convert to SS lines, and do the de-link. Part of this will be cleaning out everything I can clean. Enter shopping mode........

I even have a set of speed bleeders that were going to go in when I install the SS lines. Now may be the time to do all of this.

Those are some very nice legs I'll have you know.......

The new Hostess may have made a fatal mistake. They changed the Twinkies, they are now smaller than they were a year ago. They are now tiny, but the price is higher to compensate. This is not the way to make a comeback. I do not like my junk food being rationed.

OK, now I am really confused. When I left work the pedal felt like the old normal. over the next 5 miles it progressively went back to the nice hard great pedal. I stopped to see if it was a heat issue. All 3 rotors were at about 110 deg F. That rules out a dragging brake causing excessive heat. After another 10 miles there are several lights in a row that are timed so that you will stop at each one. the first one had the new hard pedal, the second and third had the old normal peddle, I had the old normal pedal the rest of the way home. when I got home, all three rotors were close to the same temp with the left front being the coolest, but all were cool enough to hold my finger on. So this change in pedal is now coming and going for no apparent reason.