Flyinfool

Another option is to remove the old clear coat, then paint flat black or color to match bike, then put a brush finish on all of the high spots, the letters and border will then be brushed aluminum on a colored background. then clear the whole thing. that will look nice and the smaller visible aluminum area will be easier to do.

OK, that is not right. Try unplugging the side stand switch and see if that makes any difference in either the dash display or whether the bike will run when you put it in gear. Then connect all 3 pins of the switch connector together on the bike side of the connector and again see if that makes a difference in either the display or running.

I think the roads in that other lace are dead straight and 5000 miles between gas stops. I've heard that it gets pretty warm there also.

The bike should start normally with the stand up or down. The question is does the bike continue to run after you put it in gear and with the side stand is still down?

Would have to frajicate some kind of a mount for the lights. http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-magnetic-towing-light-kit-69626.html I don't think the magnets are strong enough to get a good hold on the fiberglass. But that could have possibilities.

Well this one has a round 6 pin connector. One of the 6 pins is not used. Who knows what a PO did. The easy options; 1. We can wire the bike with the mating 6 pin connector. (if any local stores have it in stock) 2. We can rewire the trailer to a 4 wire configuration to match your bike. (this might be fastest option) 3. We can put a flat 5 on both the bike and trailer. The harder option; Rewire everything to whatever other configuration you really want. There is a 4 wire to 6 wire adapter available that will get it close to working right. From what it looks like to me is that it will end up with the amber turn signals on the trailer acting the same as the Brake/turn lights of a 4 wire trailer, and the red lights on the trailer would be running and brake lights. There would be one extra wire to connect on the bike side to pick up the pure brake signal. Tis would at least get him thru the IR and back home to wire everything to his preference.

Well this one has a round 6 pin connector. One of the 6 pins is not used. Who knows what a PO did.

I'll make him take pics when he pics it up Sunday.......

Just one. My '88 is so rare, many on this site insist it does not even exist.

Oh Oh

I am not facebook literate.....

Bob musta broke it good this time.....

While he was welding the bike to the truck he could of at least had the bike on the center stand instead of the side stand..........

I don't have any pics, but I probably can get some.

As I mentioned earlier, replacing the diodes is only a preventative measure for a working TCI. New diodes will never bring back a TCI that has already failed.

Nylon looks like new. Tires are 12 inch. Tires look like new. I did not see any cracking on the tires, but they are 20 years old. There is a spare and a 4 way wrench included ...... Actually the trailer is 13 miles south of me, so it is even closer to Rockford. If you were to buy it I could help you get the wiring to match your bike. The trailer has a 6 pin round connector on it but is a 5 wire setup. 6th pin is not used. If anyone is interested let me know quick, he wants to list it on Craig's list to be able to sell before Sturgis.

That came up as an ad to say that that the harleytechtalk domain name is available with lots of links to other websites.

I was out to look at a Bunkhouse camper last night. it is a 93 that has only been used 5 or 6 times. Everything on it looks like new. It even has the added "den" room. It looks to be a great deal asking $1500 and I know he will come down on that. Unfortunately Is is not in the cards for my budget right now. If anyone here is interested let me know, It has not been advertised anywhere yet but will be soon, it is priced to sell. The seller is someone that I know Locally.

But does this website have enough bandwidth to handle a Harley tech section?

As mike said you have more than one issue going on here. A good battery should be able to run the bike for more than 30 minutes before it starts spitting and sputtering and things stop working even with a completely failed charging system. Slow cranking when hot is a common trait for this bike. There are fixes for this available. If the battery was so low that the bike would not run, then it would not have enough juice to crank at all. As mentioned you have to start trouble shooting at the beginning. Check the electrolyte levels in all of the cells of the battery and top off with distilled water if any are low. Charge the battery up fully and check the voltage as described above. Take the fully charged battery in to a shop to get it load tested to be sure that it is good. Once you get all of this done so that we know where we are starting from, we can guide you on the next steps from there. All of these steps do not cost money yet.

Maybe that is why I have been sitting in chat all alone.

Clutch coud be anything from shot to just needing to be bled, or just need a new spring. Bleeding and bad spring are very common and simple to fix issues. AS for smoking, that could be major engine issues to a bad seal.

I have had bad MAF that did not throw a code, just stopped running with no clues.

Here is a thread on the diodes. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51767 Once the diodes actually fail they take out a custom IC that is not available. The diode replacement is only as a preventative measure on a working TCI.

There are 8 diodes in the TCI that are known to corrode and fail. They are round blue and gray. This is a common issue. There are several threads on how to do this repair. The diodes can be replaced with any 1N400X diode.