Flyinfool

There is no enjoying the scenery when you are traveling with an electrical gremlin on board, always wondering just when it will die again.

What Frank said. There is also the possibility that whomever cut out the front of the air box also rejetted to be able to use the extra air. With a whole side cut out of the air box it would have run terrible without rejetting. These bikes are very sensitive to changes in the air box.

If a diode is gone, as in missing, the TCI is toast. The doide replacement is only a preventative option on a good TCI. When a diode dies it allows a high voltage reverse polarity spike into one of the custom ICs and fries it. I did not unsolder the connectors to get mine apart. I made a cut thru the plastic just behind the connectors and then just glued it all back together with black silicone sealing the cut line. There is to big of a chance of damaging the board trying to get all of those connectors out of the board. I would doe the obvious repairs to the board (peek in the edges as best you can to see if there is any corrosion on the other side of the board that may also need repair) and then test the TCI to see if that fixed it, if that did fix it then do the diode replacement as long as you have it out and open.

I have a NIB HO stator and RR that I bought to upgrade my 88, that I have not installed yet. I also have the gasket set. At least I am in the right state but about 125 miles south of you.

I have had my mufflers off many times and reused the gaskets with no leaks.

What do the diodes on the other side of the board look like?

I never had mine off but I seem to remember that there is a mounting bolt right in the middle of the collector that you can not see. I don't know if the collector will come off without taking some other pipes off first.

Do not use a big soldering gun, you will overheat the board and make it worse. Use a small soldering pencil under 40 watt. Use solder with lead in it, not the modern lead free junk. Use rosin flux, not the corrosive stuff made for plumbing. The worst that can happen is it still wont work.

Ouch I hate road rash. and another Ouch for the bike. Glad you are not to banged up.

:sign yeah that: Just repair what you have till you can get another one. Resolder the loose connections and solder a jumper across any bad traces.

So just how did you get it to start on fire?????? Inquiring minds need to know.

Normally this mod is wired to the accy fuse, check that connection and fuse first. It is possible that while you were tracing the wire, you may have broken a poor connection made by whomever did the mod.

Congradulations, I hope you really enjoy what was supposed to be my trailer.

WOW all of my favorite things mixed together. A bike ride, FREE FOOD, flying. Beer is bad so no loss there. Now if there is Ice Cream for desert then..........

Those crispy wires should have no effect on the turn signals. The 4 way and turn signals are all the same flasher. So have found it.

If it is already on the trailer, does that means that it is beyond fixing?????? And the rest were still repairable???

To steal quote from Mike Interested,,, hell yes. Make it,,, very possibly yes. More details please.

But look at the bright side. Once it is is fixed it should stop bothering you, and you can go on with life, with one less pain to deal with. Good luck with getting it fixed. If I had ever thought that I would live half this long, I would have taken better care of this body.....

You can post deals, people do it all of the time. You just have to post it in the correct place. Deals go in Links to Classifieds, Craigslist and Ebay

If all else fails get a bigger hammer.

Existing cables will work, 4ga will work better.

The stock starting system works ok. doing the ground mod on the 2 brush starter makes it better. Doing the wire upgrade makes it better yet adding an AGM battery also makes it better. a 4 brush starter added to all of the above makes it the best it can be. My stock system never failed to do its job. With each upgrade starting got noticeably better.

Most of chat is working. Chat does not remember the selection that you pick in "options". You have to set it all up every time you log in. The "send image" button does not work, it did work for the first couple days. Other than that, It looks good. No hurry, it can wait till you get home and unpacked. Thanks for getting it back up.

At first I was going to say a bad ground wire to the cluster. but if the brake light is also going out, there is no ground connection for the brake light circuit in the dash, that would imply one of the 2 connectors got knocked loose.

Brake fluid is hydraulic fluid. By using the same fluid as the brakes, there is one less type of fluid to be stocked and installed by the factory. There is no chance of using the wrong type fluid in the wrong reservoir by either the factory or the owner. There are components in the system that are shared between the brake and clutch, if different fluids were used the specs of the shared parts may need to be different thus increasing the number of stocked items and the possibility if installing a wrong component in the wrong system. Water absorption is not an asset, it is a bad thing, but not bad enough to use something else. Bottom line is that it is cheaper to use the same fluid and it does get the job done. Stocking units are a big deal to a large company. Besides, if you spill some of most hydraulic fluids on the plastic or paint it just makes a mess that has to be wiped up, if you get messy and spill brake fluid on your plastic or paint, they get to sell you new parts.