Flyinfool

Putting any sealant on the diaphragms is only a temporary fix at best. The added weight and stiffness will change the way the diaphragm works. Best is to get new diaphragms.

Hope this helps.

HA! none of us guessed that one.

Be careful, First gens are still young and virile, once you have 2 together they have been known to breed and multiply, Just ask Yammer Dan or Condor.

This is the same 30A bosh type relay but they open it up and add a time delay circuit and seal it back up. No need for another relay in this case.

It is even easier than I thought. Just wire in this relay, in series with the EAND relay that is on the bike now. The EAND relay is located behind the instrument cluster under the dash. Relay Wire Terminal - Color 30 - White (from EAND relay) 85 - Black (ground) 86 - Yellow (to yellow of EAND relay) 87 - no connection 87A - White (to AD solenoids) This will activate the AD for 10 seconds after you hit the brake and then turn off. If you pulse the brake the time will start over every time the brake is activated. The contacts are rated for 12 DC at 30 amp so contact rating will not be an issue. NOTE - This relay is polarity sensitive. Pin 85 must be to ground and 86 must be to +12V or it will be instantly turned into a desk curio.

Just an FYI. Both of those ebay time delay relays have contacts rated for 3 or 5 Amp, 250V AC resistive. Switching 12V DC inductive will be very hard on the contacts and they may not last long. The 3A will fry pretty quick since we are already over that. It is a lot harder to switch DC than it is AC, it is also harder to switch an inductive load than a resistive load. I can see these not lasting very long. Now on the other hand, what might work for this is the time delay relay that some are using to delay the turning on of their headlights and use that to control a second relay to switch the AD circuit. I'll look for the parts and post a wiring diagram if you need it. I might have to do this for myself.

I was in there chatting last night, seemed to work just fine. Now IF I can just figure out how to make it remember my selected options........

But I thought Sharon liked it when you hit the gas to go fast????

But did you get the cookies transfered over to your laptop????? Because men will be men???????

Here is the list of LED bulbs that I used. (so Far:whistling:) All are from www.superbrightleds.com. Not the cheapest bulbs around but I have never been disappointed with their products. These are all far brighter than the incandescents they replace. In the dash; WLED-AHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Amber, Qty 2 WLED-GHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Green, Qty 1 WLED-B-90, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Blue, Qty 1 WLED-CWHP15-TAC, 194 LED Wedge Base Tower White, Qty 4 Above is just for the dash, for the cruise you will need to add; 74-AHP or 74-A, #74, LED Wedge Base Bulb, Amber, Qty 1 74-GHP or 74-G, #74, LED Wedge Base Bulb, Green, Qty 1 74-BHP or 74-B, #74, LED Wedge Base Bulb, Blue, Qty 1 I have nothing in the place of the white headlight position since I have disabled my RLU for the HID headlight. I have been very happy with this combination. The dash is illuminated with a much whiter background that I can actually see at night and the dimmer will bring it down to just the right level for me. The other colored bulbs are also a lot brighter than stock so that I can see them at high noon with the sun behind me. the exception is the blue. The bright blue was to much to be on all the time at night so I got a dimmer one, cant really see it in daylight very good but it is just right at night.

:scared: :scared: :scared: :scared: Another 0ne bites the dust........

Since after rearranging the connectors you did have spark on all 4, did you try putting it back the way it was to see if you would still have spark on all 4? Since you now have spark on all 4 that means that all circuits of the TCI are firing and all of the coils are working. Just by the plugging and unplugging of connectors you may have cleaned a dirty connection and fixed the problem.

It is not a glass clear coating so it would not be good for a windshield unless you want a frosted windshield...... Look at the part of the demo where they sprayed the perimeter of glass to make the puddle stay in the middle. it is frosted looking, almost white. In fact most of the things they coated in the demo were white. But it may still have some interesting applications. But it aint cheap and only covers 10-15 square feet.

An 88 Venture Royal should have the Class system, an 88 Venture does not have the Class and does have the manual fill valves.

NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do not put air in there. that is a brake line for bleeding the linked front brake. The Schrader valve for pumping up the front shocks is accessed from below the faring and headlight on the right side and just in front of the right shock. Of course this is guessing that you have a MKII std. It is really helpful to all of us to know what bike you are talking about. from the different answers you got you can see our confusion.

I'll bet the truck was pulling forward cuz it had no idea the bike hit him or that the trailer ran over the bike. What a buffoon.

Cool, "I love it when a plan comes together".

with the battery that low you may have to start the charge process with non automatic charger. Many of the automatic chargers will see that low of a voltage and assume something is wrong and refuse to charge.

Thanks for the invite Jim I enjoyed every minute of it from the ride there to the very last flight of the day. I have the sunburned face to prove that I spent a LOT of time looking up.

That part sounds eerily similar to the issue that I was having on my home from Dons MD. Except that when it was running it ran great. The tach is driven off of #2 cylinder coil. So if the tach is dropping to zero durring the hick up it means that #2 coil is not being told to fire. In my case it was all of the coils not being told to fire hence the noticeable hiccup. A single cylinder dropping out momentarily would never be noticed while riding. Mine started out as a hick up and progressed to a full blown shut down for several seconds or even minutes at a time. I found 3 separate possible problems, one was a bad connector in the frame ground wire. one was a broken kill switch, and the other was a bad factory crimp in the wire the feeds power to all of the ignition circuits. But like I said, mine never ran bad, just the occasional hick up.

There are a lot of us that have them and love them.

I no longer have a single incandescent bulb on my bike, that I know of. I have converted to all LED and HID. It takes some work to do but is not that hard. It also takes the use of good quality LED bulbs. Quality LEDs are not inexpensive. The LEDs and HID I used are all a lot brighter than the stock bulbs, and the reduced draw on the stator is very noticeable. I will never go back to filaments.

My sister that works for the US Forest Service just sent me this.....

A couple of thoughts. Do you wear a full face helmet that will protect your ears from wind and turbulence? If wearing a full face helmet you could also try wearing on of the allergy masks to filter the air that you are breathing and no one would notice. Once you get to a point that you can identify the problem, could be allergies, could be the wind pressure, or something else, then you can work on methods to minimize it.