Flyinfool

Ummmmmm...... I don't know if Don will allow us to post that instructional video....... You may just have to do some experimenting and trying lots and lots and lots of different things till you find the one that works best for you.........Then post video.......

I see the gas cap for $24.99 but it shows as free shipping on my screen.? The $14.99 spring is also free shipping, as is the $14.99 trunk mat? I am not finding any of the listings on the page you linked to with $45 shipping?? The highest shipping I found was $19.95 but that was a large heavy item so it is realistic shipping. Unless it has something to do with you being an international customer.....??

I hope you did not hurt him to bad......

You just have to look at the value of the bottom line. I have bought items from e bay for$0.99 and paid the $45 shipping, but it was an item that I was willing to pay up to $50 to get. So I got my moneys worth and how the seller works his numbers is his problem. The only number I care about is what is leaving my bank account.

They should be OK there, But I would turn them terminals down to help shed water.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4NK-81670-00-00.html http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4NK-81670-00-00.html http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/yamaha-pick-up-assy-4nk-81670-00-00-part.html http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/669998 Here are some possibilities. I would call to verify stock and you can then see what faster shipping would cost.:mo money:

First is a visual check. If any of the windings are a darker color than the rest It may be a sign of excessive heat. With your ohm meter set on highest ohm scale, check from each wire to the metal part of the stator. The stator has a insulation coating on it so you have to make sure that you are actually getting a good connection to the metal. With your ohm meter set on the lowest scale. check the resistance of each pair of wires. It should be .36 to .48 ohms. Alls 3 pairs should be very close to the same value. That is about as good as you can test with the stator off the bike. I have attached a PDF file of a procedure that I am writing for checking the complete charging system.

The resistance from any one of the stator wires to ground should not be 0, it should be infinity. Infinity will be the same thing that the ohm meter shows when the leads are not connected to anything. Since your ohm meter is not real accurate, another test you can run is to check voltage from a stator wire to ground with the engine running, RPM does not matter for this test. All 3 should be 0 volts. If you get a reading then either the windings of the stator or one of the stators leads are shorted to ground. A damaged shorted wire can be repaired, if the stator itself is grounded it is toast. Also when you are checking the battery voltage, do a test with everything on the bike turned on. If you do not see that same 13.9 volts at 4,000 rpm then you have a weak charging system. From what you described, It sure sounds like the stator is the culprit.

Ever run a compression check to see if there may be a mechanical issue?

I was thinking a handgun in 7mm-08 for a long shot with a .50 cal handgun for close work. Of course if we do butcher that 400 pounder at the resort, I'll bet that some grills will show up quick enough so that the remainder will fit into a cooler, or lunch bag......

The braid is just that, copper braid, the solder wicks right up into the braid. works great. For old crusty solder like what is on these old circuit boards it helps to add a bit of rosin flux to the braid. Rosin flux is also from Radio Shack. DO NOT USE acid flux like what is used for plumbing, acid and electronics do not mix well.

I don't know if tire smoke is the best smoke for curring pork.......and since I have a 1st gen, it will not take long to get out of state...... BUT since Red1 mentioned that there would be Hog hunting, there may be a few Hogs right at the resort to use for target practice....... Just thinking out loud here.... I suppose it might be possible to de-bone it and get all or most of it into a cooler, I know I can get a whole de-boned deer into my cooler. I never even thought to try a MC hunting trip. The resort that we are staying at may also have some local hunting info to share with their guests, as well as possibly have or know of a freezer and/or butcher to cool down the meat for a guest. It would be easy to remove the topper from my trailer down there to have a flat bed to hall the beast back to camp on. Once back at camp it would not take long for a couple of guys to butcher it up and get it into a cooler. I would probably hunt with hand guns just because they are easier to transport on a bike.

Now this sounds interesting. The only part I am not sure of is how to get the meat home on a bike and keep it properly cooled.

That sounds like fun.......

Initially reduced power draw was the main reason that I went to LED, and the LEDs did that well. I was very pleasantly surprised to also find out that the LEDs I used are brighter than stock incandescents. Since the front turn signals are also running lights, you will get energy savings all of the time there. The rear are just turn signals so there is no energy saving, BUT I did notice that in bright sunlight my rear turn signals were nearly invisible, With the LED they are now very visible. This is a big safety deal to me. I want everyone around me to be sure of my intentions. I now advocate the safety issue first and the power saving second. I agree that there are some people that should not even be allowed to look at a wire, let alone mess with one. ps. Yes mine did work on the first try. But I then messed with it some more to optimize it so I am still getting some energy savings with the turn signals and still have a correct flash rate. I did do a write up on what I did so that others can follow a plan that is known to work.

Driving comes first and foremost. I usually wave if it is safe for me to do so. I do not wave if I am; in heavy traffic. accelerating or decelerating. turning. watching other traffic situations that require my complete attention. Probably a few more that I do subconsciously. If you do not feel safe waving, that is you making the correct choice for you, I will not be offended, because I understand that there are things that are more important than a wave.

Just above the pivot for the rear brake lever.

I like the ideas swirling around in my poor little head. It will be on a small circuit board about the size of a postage stamp. There will be 3 QC (1/4 or .25 Spade terminal) terminals sticking out the side of it. Getting ready to pull the trigger to order parts to make up 10 of these bulb monitors. I already have materials on hand to make up the PCBs, just need the components. Wiring will be simple; 1. Cut the wire going to the bulb you wish to monitor 2. Crimp on a QC terminal to each end of the cut wire. 3. Attach the QC terminals to the module. 4. Attach a wire with a QC terminal to the remaining terminal of the module. 5. Attach the other end of this wire to the Indicator LED. 6. Connect the other lead of the indicator LED to ground.

Fortunately for me Lake Michigan did a good job of stopping the westward progress of the blackout. So for us it was just a blurb on the news.

Our bikes do have an adjustable antenna. Having the SWR correct will not have a much effect on reception, But a high SWR can let the magic blue smoke out of the CB while transmitting.

Also check again to be sure it is wired up correctly. The wire colors do NOT match between the converter and the bike. A mis-wire on the bike side of the converter can wear the hair off one side of your head with weird results on the trailer.

Notes This is where people get confused. Adding the "load equalizers" aka resistors, it is true that it will negate any energy savings, BUT this is only while the turn signal is actually lit. Think about it, how much time is the turn signal bulb actually lit. First it is a 50% duty cycle when the signals are on, The auto cancel turns them off after 15 seconds so that means the bulb is lit for 7.5 seconds MAX for a lane change. So even if you have to stop at a light for a minute, the turn signal bulb is only lit for a little over 30 seconds. That is not much time to worry about the current draw being the same as it was before. You still get the energy savings from the running lights part of the LED ALL of the time. The net result is a big saving of energy. As far as the blown fuses and scorched wires, that is not because of the LEDs, it is because of improper wiring and would have happened anyhow. With all of that said, there are a lot of junk LEDs on the market that are less bright than the incandescent was, there are also LEDs that are a lot brighter than the incandescents and will be a noticeable improvement in visibility. Just like what you noticed with the brake light.

The wedge type bulbs are 3 watts each; 10 accent lights 6 trunk lights 10 trim lights 2 mudflap lights 28 total lights 28 lights at 3W each is 84 watts or 7 amps draw. That is a lot!!!! Now depending on how much other electrical stuff you have added to the bike, could explain the smoking stator. You may have to look into a High Output stator and RR and/or change all of those lights over to LED.

I have LEDs everywhere on my 88 and there is no problem with the rear brake canceling the cruise. You might want to clean the rear brake switch just to rule it out. Your issue could also be a weak vacuum pump. The max speed that my cruse will hold has been slowly dropping. I believe it is a weak pump that can only pull so hard. There was a post a while back where someone had similar issues and a brand new pump made it work like new again. I can not find that post now.

Very glad to hear that you are OK. Anything else can be dealt with. I hope you find a new ride that you like. Keep an eye on the mirrors when stopped, and always have a plan for an escape route.