Flyinfool

Actually we try to get people to add their bike to their header and/or signature so that everyone knows what you have and you don't have to say anything at all. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880

I am ASSUMING it is 1st gen MKII.

Clicking for a few seconds when you first turn the key on is a good thing. I always wait for it to finish clicking before I strt so that I know the float bowels are full. It only clicks while moving fuel. so with the engine off it just clicks for a few seconds to top off the float bowels and then stops since there is no fuel flow. On a 1st gen, most of the tank is below the carbs, so a pump is needed to bring up the fuel. As mentioned the pump is a solenoid pushing a diaphragm back and forth hence the clicking as the solenoid cycles.

Factory stock is only a tail light. The red band around the trunk is just a reflector. The red part just above the bumper is also just a reflector. There are a lot of ways to get more light on the back. I have already filled the trunk reflector with 177 LEDs that are wired to act as running lights, turn signal, and brake light. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41588 Adding lights to the bottom reflector is coming up high on the list. these will be running and brake lights. Dang, I type to slow again.......

I have seen these around the Milwaukee area, but with no badgeing. Might have been prototypes. I was trying to figure out what it was. It looked kind of like a HD, but it had a radiator. Must be a rough job. Boss; "Here are keys to a bike and a company CC, go ride 10,000 miles" employee; "OK Boss" Boss; "Be back in a month or so" employee "OK Boss"

Nope, we have a local member that is already using that scheme.

As a separate test showed, greater total weight was one of several things that can cause an increase in stability. Adding a pillion is still adding weight forward of the rear axle, and as the separate test showed, greater total weight also has a calming effect. It is possible that the total weight gain of a pillion has more of a stabilizing effect than the rearward CG change has a destabilizing effect. It would take more testing to determine that. There are a lot of combinations of variables that were not shown as being tested in that vid. From back in the days when I was driving stock cars, the CG does make a big difference in handling, even just a couple percent change. I'm sticking with my original plan of ending my diet for safety reasons.:essen_018:

They shifted the CG using two different methods and got the same repeatable result for both cases. They even said that the action that caused the CG to move was the only action taken. That sounds like proof to me. Proof of a cause and effect is one thing, understanding the reason and/or physics for that cause and effect is something totally different.

On the left side of the screen under "Users Login", Go to the "User CP" On the left side of the screen under "Settings and Options" go to "Edit Options" Scroll down to "Messaging and Notification" look for "Save a copy of sent messages in my Sent Items folder by default" and make sure the box is checked. Very important, now scroll down to the very bottom of the page and click the "Save Changes" button. From now on all PMs should automatically be saved in your "Sent Items" folder.

WOW! I sure hope I never experience that. Watching this has officially ended my diet....... Having more stones seems to help...... I found it interesting that they were able to demonstrate that a trunk behind the rear wheel increases weave, and leaning forward over the take will stop weave, then at the very end they say they have no idea why leaning forward stabilizes the bike. They just proved that a rearward CG (Center of Gravity) is unstable and a more forward CG is more stable. Yet they were unable to make the connection that leaning down over the tank will move the CG forward. This same CG thing is critical to getting an airplane to fly straight also.

Glad you are not to badly hurt. I hope you heal up quick and that everything works out for you. Unfortunately it does not take much more than a scratch before an insurance Co will total out a 1st gen.

If you can feel it slip when you crank on it, it is already a weak spring and may be creeping all of the time. The sooner you replace it the less likely you are to need new plates or steels.

Sliders moving slowly is more likely dirt making them sticky in the bore. Pull the slides out and give them and the bores a thorough cleaning before you start replacing stuff.

If you don't have it already you want the HID on a separate switch so that you can turn it on after the engine is running. Having the HID come on before the engine is started is really hard on the HID due to the voltage drop while the starter is cranking. All of the HIDs that I have seen (I certainly have not seen them all) do plug into the existing headlight connector, but still have a separate power wire running to the battery and to ground.

Is the email by chance still in your deleted items folder?

Maybe we can all do a no rain dance for ya for the rest of the trip.......

If you did not pull the flywheel (there is no need to pull flywheel for stator replacement) then it is unlikely, not impossible, to be something in the starting system. Check for any debris that may be stuck to the magnets of the flywheel. Check the stator to be sure that it is actually tight and not just that the screws are bottomed out in the holes. Check also to be sure the stator is seated properly. If something was rubbing somewhere in there, you should see rub marks. Silly question that must be asked, Did you use a new cover gasket or just sealer to put the cover back on? The gasket thickness is needed for proper internal clearances.

Maybe you are just riding harder trying to get the same performance that you are used to from your old 1st gens...... I know Sharon likes to go fast........ Well someone had to go there......

I slept to late. I was going to suggest a home made v-boost. And as soon as you said you can turn the tube, the very first thing that popped into my head was air leak. I guess no worms for me today........

I don't even know what the original grips are. I have nice foam grips that I just put on my 88, comfy and inexpensive.

The alternator of a car is a LOT more powerful than the charging system of a motorcycle. What is happening is that the extra 54 watts (27 W per bulb x 2 bulbs) of lighting that is flashing on and off is more amps than the stator can deliver at idle. Whenever you pull more amps than the charging system can deliver the voltage of the whole system drops. When the voltage drops the lights will dim. A car alternator is more able to deliver the needed power even at idle so the other lights do not dim.

I think the KOA was for campgrounds for overnight stops while in route to the the IR. Not for once you were there.

I would think that if you let it rest on the fender it will leave rub marks in the paint no matter how tight you lash it to the backrest. Ever consider a hidden hitch and either a plug in rack or small trailer for traveling?

But I bet a good shot of adrenalin makes it work better, or as least faster. I have already been rethinking mine, I have a Bad Boy horn on each side of he bike facing forward, not cowled under anything. At Dons MD I was only a few bike lengths behind another bike and he could not hear my air horns while I was trying to get his attention.

I have one from my 88, if it will fit you can have it. It is a little worn at the pivot but was still functional. If you are getting a new one order a new pivot bolt and a new bushing that pushes the piston in the master, these do wear out.