Flyinfool

All of the single part clears that I have tried are either not chemical resistant (oil, gas, carb or brake cleaner) or they yellow quickly. There are sever companies that do make a 2 part clear in a rattle can. You press in the right spot to break an internal seal to allow the resin and hardener to mix internally. Once you mix it whatever you do not use can not be saved, it will still kick off and harden in the can. Here is one http://www.eastwood.com/ or [ame=http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY]Amazon.com: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/317U4Ie5tYL.@@AMEPARAM@@317U4Ie5tYL[/ame]

As mentioned, the rule of thumb is no more than half the weight of the bike. My trailer is a lot less than that and I am considering adding electric trailer brakes because I do not like the longer stopping distance.

The odds are not good for me to make it but I am trying like heck to find a way to get there.

While you have the start switch apart check the wires at the switch; Check continuity from the black wire to battery Negative. Check for 12V from the Blue/White wire to Battery Negative. This will test the rest of the starter wiring and the start relay.

NOOOOOoooooo........Left?????????????

If the fork seal is leaking, new springs will not help. You have 2 options that I am aware of; 1. clean the seal, there are a couple of threads on using something similar to 35mm film to scrape out dirt. 2. replace the seals.

Also you mentioned that one plug was black, this could indicate a carb issue where one or more cylinders are running rich. What did the rest of the plugs look like? What did the plugs look like the second time you changed them? Maybe a stuck float???? But then on the other hand, since the tach is dropping to zero that indicates an electrical issue. Maybe you have more than one unrelated issue going on at the same time?

HAHAHA!! But you are not going to share your findings so that the next person to use search will find this thread about fork oil with no info???

Well Lesson 1 How to pick it back up......... Trying to drive across grass with no knowledge of the friction zone, he spun the wheel and it slid out from under him. No apparent dame to him or the bike, well maybe a hit to his pride having to stop over to ask for help getting it upright. I used it as a point that it is useful things like that that you will learn in a MSF course. I think he is beginning to see my point. I did give him my ride like a pro DVD.

I have made a few experimental coils to see how this works. Next is to set up a breadboard for testing.

And we all know that "Da Bears still suck" [ame]http://youtu.be/Tj5aW0tj3mE[/ame]

I say pretty lousy camera work........

You could just swap out the gears with the shims and it will function as long as it is not binding. BUT, you really should go through the lash adjustment procedure to do it right. The shims, and the lash adjustment procedure are to make up for the manufacturing tolerances of all of the parts. If the lash is not right, it could cause gear noise at best and/or increased gear wear and/or failure at worst. On the other hand, you could get lucky and the shims would be right.

Haven't thought of that one. I'll bring that up tomorrow if I see him out. I have my donor card signed.

Well I just finished brewing my first test batch. I have a feeling it will not be around long.......

Overnight is enough time to start to make a difference.

Any Fog lights on your 83 are not stock. So you can put on anything you like. I have the KChilites series 35. I have them on my truck and my bike. they have a 23 year warranty that even covers the bulbs. They are focused between a driving and a fog light with an emphasis on lighting up the side of the road. I can not even guess how many deer I did not hit because of these lights.

For desert tonight I have rum balls with an apple pie wash..... I do have some (but not many) manners. Come on up.

Neighbor is around 6'4" and 200lbs. He does not even have a MC learners permit, (says he don't need one:doh:??????) he paid cash, may not have insurance either. I don't know if there is an insurance co that would even cover that combo.

I am mixing up a batch of apple pie as I type. Hows that for a suggestion?

I was surprised that with all of the issues that I had on the way home from MD, not one single biker even asked if there was anything they could do to help me out. I was in a rest area with parts of the bike scattered all over the parking lot. There were many bikes of about every brand and style bike that stopped at the rest area and just walked past looking but not saying a word.

I have a Coleman that has been going camping for 15+ years and no leaks yet. I use it in the woods sometimes on bare ground, sometimes in a tent, sometimes in the back of my truck, and sometimes even on a nice carpeted floor in someones house.

I am tempted to go to the dealer and talk to the salesman and/or manager. I did give this article to the neighbor with the parts highlighted about being for very experienced riders. http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/suzuki/2013-suzuki-hayabusa-gsx1300r-ar148448.html I can only hope it gets through his thick skull before a curb does.

He is a youngster of around 40 that knows better than an old man. He felt the salesman knows a lot more about bikes than I do. At least the salesman did talk him into getting a good matching full face helmet and armored jacket.

My next door neighbor has been looking at my bike a lot and decided to go out and get himself a bike. He has NEVER ridden before. The salesman convinced him that a 2013 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX1300R is a great first bike. All of that extra power makes it easier to learn how to use a clutch.:scared: I am trying to talk him into taking a MSF course. He does not feel he needs one. After all he made it home in one piece. It took him more than 10 starts just to get it parked, He kept killing the engine every time he tries to let out the clutch. I fear this will not end well.