-
Posts
13,152 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Everything posted by Flyinfool
-
Did you try from a computer? Maybe it is a Droid issue.
-
CLASS E1 Repair
Flyinfool replied to Donvito's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
For board repair I like to use some flux and a silver bearing solder. The lead solder cracked once already and the silver bearing solder is both stronger and more conductive. For your soldering pencil, I would recommend the 40W for the bigger terminal solder joints or soldering bigger wires together, and a 15 / 30W for component leads. DO NOT use plumbing solder because it has an acid flux that will eat electronics. Also do not use acid flux for the same reasons. ONLY rosin core solder and rosin flux. Since you are not experienced with soldering, you do not want to mess with the modern lead free solders, they are harder to work with. You want solder with lead in it. Just don't eat it and you will be fine unless you live in California. A Radio Shack shopping list to get you started Rosin Flux P/N 64-022 Silver Solder P/N 64-013 40W Soldering Pencil P/N 64-2071 15/30W Soldering Pencil P/N 64-2055 -
I can do that much better than those cops do it. It is really hard to knock over the most cones........
-
Hey, that's my line........ I get most of my parts from SkyDoc_17, a member on this forum. The parts will come with a lot of knowledge on how to use them.
-
I would pay for your time plus a Steak Dinner in Omaha!
Flyinfool replied to Nemo's topic in Watering Hole
:sign yeah that: Once you learn the combination it is an easy one. -
Back when I was dirt track racing cars, we did do a lot of siping. As mentioned it does add a lot of traction AND the tire will wear a LOT faster. I would not do it to a everyday street tire.
-
Phone problems that resulted in a major loss for Tippy and Puc!!!
Flyinfool replied to cowpuc's topic in Watering Hole
That has to suck. But then look at the bright side. You may have gotten some weird looks doing Hardly Fest on a Venture...... But on the other hand, I could have taken you out for some good Wisconsin Ice cream while you were here. -
If you do not need all of the fancy stuff for powering laptops and Ipads, This is an even more powerful battery that is also smaller, lighter, and less expensive. it puts out 14.4 volts so it will crank your bike very well and not risk damage to other electronics. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__19154__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_4S_65_130C_Lipo_Pack.html These are the type of batteries powering modern electric model aircraft. I know that one of these will start a Chevy 350.
-
Unfortunately the story is very true. It is believed that it was a mechanical failure that caused the crash. The heli that he was flying had nearly 6 HP swinging 700mm carbon fiber blades with a steel wire embedded in the leading edge, at over 2,000 RPM. I have seen blades of this type lop off 1.5 inch tree branches with no damage. I have also seen them chew through a steel roof with no damage. Yes RC aircraft are toys, Dangerous toys, but still toys. My thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.
-
Need a GURU! Electrical issue during carb sync!!!!
Flyinfool replied to Huggy's topic in Watering Hole
I seem to remember someone mentioning that when they changed the Headlight indicator to a LED that the LED was always on. Like there is some leakage out that wire, enough to measure or light an LED but not enough to see when the bulb is installed. On the other hand you might have a faulty RLU. I think I still have the RLU that I took out of my '88 to install the HID headlight. I assume it was working when I took it out. I never burned out a headlight to know for sure. If you want to try it, let me know. Then I just have to find it......... -
Need a GURU! Electrical issue during carb sync!!!!
Flyinfool replied to Huggy's topic in Watering Hole
The odds of all of those bulbs burning out at the same time is so slim....... I would be looking for a bad wire connection to the dash. Most likely the ground wire. When there are multiple issues in different systems that all happen at once it is almost always the ground. -
I have had a HID Bi-Xenon headlight for 3 years now. Last week the bulb stopped switching between Hi and Lo beams. Being the cheapskate that I am, instead of just ordering a new bulb, I went into disassembly mode. What I found is that there is a coil of wire mounted to the back of the bulb and a magnet mounted in the rear of the bulb housing with a spring in the center. The way it works is for Hi beam, the coil is energized and this pulls the bulb to the rear. For Lo beam the coil is turned off and the spring pushes the bulb forward. This gives the 2 different focal points for the 2 beams. What happened to mine is the glue holding the magnet let go and the spring plus electromagnet pulled the magnet forward rendering the bulb unable to switch between hi and lo. I glued the magnet back into place and it works just like new. To take the bulb apart there are 3 tiny Torx screws holding the back of the bulb housing on. The hardest part of all of this was finding a screwdriver to fit the screws. I know I have read posts from people that have replaced bulbs because they stopped switching. I hope this helps someone out to save a couple of bucks.
-
Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine around 4,000 RPM. Voltage should be 14V +/-0.5V.
-
display/cms issues
Flyinfool replied to fng985's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
That sure looks like a resistor. Can you make out the colors of the stripes? I can not make them out from the pic. -
Need a GURU! Electrical issue during carb sync!!!!
Flyinfool replied to Huggy's topic in Watering Hole
There should be 2 black wires connected to the battery negative. The big heavy one that goes to the engine and handles the starter power, and a smaller black wire that goes to a one pin connector right in front of the battery. This smaller wire is the frame ground. I just had to repair that one pin connector since mine had battery acid on it at some point in time and was corroded making intermittent contact. If that second smaller black wire is not on the battery negative, look around in front of and toward the right side of the battery, it may just be laying there looking for a home. -
display/cms issues
Flyinfool replied to fng985's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
A diode will usually (certainally not always) be black with a silver band at one end. A resistor will be usually tan to brown or blue with 4 or 5 colored strips around it. What are the colors of the stripes around your part, A good pic would help here. -
And now you got a taste of what a HID headlight will look like all of the time. Glad you found it before the trip. As LilBeaver alluded to. The voltage spikes can do other damage that is not always immediately apparent. Sometimes it is just weakening another component that fail sooner that expected. I would pack a spare headlight and some other bulbs for your trip. Radios and CBs are still connected and using power even when off, the spikes can still get them whether they are on or off.
-
display/cms issues
Flyinfool replied to fng985's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
First, I do not recommend using a "cold solder" type gun on any electronics. they work by passing current through the joint so the joint gets hot. This current can follow the wires to other places and cause problems if its voltage is higher than what the circuit was designed for or if it ends up being a reverse polarity on something polarity sensitive. There is a wire that goes to a fluid sensor in the stock battery, there is a common fix of adding a resistor to that wire and connecting the resistor to AUX power to turn off the "Battery Fluid Low" warning light in the CMU. If yours has a diode it is not done right and could fry the CMU. -
excessive heat from engine
Flyinfool replied to Bantam's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
When it is hot out you want the vents in the side covers closed, all other vents open. I have to check the side vents often, after a stop my knee will often bump the side vents open and the leg cooking begins. Your foot is still right above the exhaust and will still get quite warm. But those side vents really trow out some heat. On the other hand, opening those side vents when it is 20°F out will do a lot to keep you warm. -
Make sure you mark which one to cut....... You should be just right to cage it up here for my PMS M&E in March.
-
how do i check RLU
Flyinfool replied to pmelah's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Also check all of the grounds. -
Hard to start after 1 week sitting
Flyinfool replied to cabreco's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
At most I get one or 2 clicks out of the pump when I turn on the key, this meas that the float bowls are not draining out. Start with SeaFoam to see if it will fix your carb ailment. Park the bike with full bowls, and sit and watch for any leaks. -
Got to meet yet ANOTHER VR member today, what a GREAT summer!!!
Flyinfool replied to cowpuc's topic in Watering Hole
OH OH!!! I better keep my bags hid, I ain't that far away....... -
Got to meet yet ANOTHER VR member today, what a GREAT summer!!!
Flyinfool replied to cowpuc's topic in Watering Hole
Here he is nice enough to come visit you and you swiped his trunk.........