Flyinfool

I used to have an antenna, but since that new BIG building went up across the street I can not get any channels over the air.

That is one of the reasons that I keep a near $0 PP balance and have it tied to a checking account that is also maintained near $0. There is nothing for PP to tie up if someone tries to scam me.

But then on the other hand, with my Direct TV, I am now staring at a blank screen because it is raining out.

Yup, Garage door opener and a regulated power supply. Just pull it out and toss it, odds are it will not work with your door.

I just switched from cable to Direct TV. I called the cable co to see about getting my bill lowered and they said there is nothing they can do to lower my bill. I said I was going to switch to U-verse and the cable co already knew it was not available in my area, and even told me so. So I canceled and went with DSL and Direct TV. the bill is about half of what cable was. Once the "new customer" rates expire and the bill goes up. I will switch back to cable as a new customer. Both the cable and Direct TV seem to have reception issues during big storms. They both get their feed from a satellite.

Go ahead and sent that on east when you are done with it. I'm itching to go play in some snow with my new 4x4 truck.

A lot depends on the neighborhood. UPS has no problem leaving a package on my front porch in plain sight of anyone walking by. I live 3 blocks from the high school. At least 50% of packages delivered are gone by the time I get home from work. I had to sign a paper with UPS that all deliveries to my house require an adult signature. When the delivery fails because I am at work, they leave a yellow sticky on the door. I then go down to the UPS office to pick it up in person after showing my photo ID with address. Some neighborhoods are the opposite, they will not leave anything without a signature. As far as responsibility, if it comes down to a PP or CC dispute, you have the documentation that UPS did in fact deliver it, If the buyer then lost it that is not leagally your problem. But then the what feels like the right thing for you to do beyond what is legal will vary by the individual and their beliefs. FWIW, I once dealt with a buyer that claimed his package was damaged in shipping. I filed a claim with FedEX because the shipper is the only one that can. FedEX then sent someone out to his house to look at the damage and the buyer refused to show it to the FedEX agent, FedEX then notified me that they were refusing the claim and also told me that this individual has filed a claim for $125 on each of the last 6 packages delivered to that address. In other words the buyer was scamming $125 off the price of every big item he bought and now got busted. Since you have the UPS documentation to show that you did your part and had it delivered, Only you are left to make the determination as to; 1st, Do you believe him about it being stolen? 2nd Do you feel like absorbing part of HIS loss? The banks will/should side with you if he files a claim. I would print out copies of the UPS delivery notice to save for future reference. AS far as insurance, I usually buy insurance on expensive items. I've seen to many things not make it in one piece or even just never make it.

Tom, are you starting to look over your shoulder for Robin now? Been nice knowing ya......

Loose connection?

At least sharp objects don't hurt as bad as dull objects.......

You probably deserve those looks......

The last battery I bought is an AC Delco AGM. It did come with the 6 tube acid filler. Once you put the cap on it is sealed, the cap is not removable. It is coming to the end of its first season and it still cranks the bike faster than the old battery ever did. We will see how it stands up to a Wisconsin winter. Due to the fact that the acid must be Absorbed into the Glass Matting, it did take a fairly long time to fill. The special filler that fills all 6 cells at the same time took almost a half hour to finish emptying into the battery.

It is also possible to be a stuck solenoid instead of the switch. When my start clutch went out I had one occasion that it did not disengage, fortunately I could hear it so I never revved the engine and I shut it down before any other damage.

Can you tow that with your Hardly?

If the stator could put out enough to keep the starter turning, and the battery disconnected, you just invented perpetual motion. You gonna make Bill Gates look like a pauper. That was my first thought to that the bike never started and the starter switch was stuck so it was just cranking. But then you said you pulled a battery cable. That shot that idea all to he11. Since you pulled the battery cable and it was still sort of running the only option left is that it was for some reason dieseling. Maybe on just one cylinder. But that would not explain the battery draw. Unless you had a combination of things happening like a stuck starter and the dieseling, where the starter was helping the dieseling along. Yes I am grasping at straws here.:confused24: Pull the plugs to see if one cylinder has a lot of carbon buildup.

Yes they do work well to remove water, BUT will they work to remove the water saturated ethanol from the gasoline?

You do not have to get a HO RR to go with the HO Stator. BUT you will only have the max power available that the stock RR can pass. In other words you will get little to no benefit from the HO stator. But it will function safely.

BUT Which one of those 1st gens would actually mate with that 2nd gen? They may just take the intruder out back and take turns giving it a good woopin.

AND VIDEO!!!! :225: :225: :225:

If slipping started right after an oil change, that is where I would start. Anytime you do something, and something bad happens right after, start by undoing what you just did.

I have a special funnel with a special filter element that is made for getting water out of jet fuel. It actually works as advertised, there will be droplets of water rolling around on the screen after pouring the fuel through. I wonder if it would separate out the alky water mix from gasoline??

Hmmm..... Its looking like the YESs have a LOT of work to do in the next 24 hours.........

The key is how long has it been slipping. If it just started slipping, then the clutch discs are most likely ok If has been slipping for a long time, the clutch could be worn out. The friction discs are 3mm thick new (0.118 inch) worn out is 2.8mm thick (.110 inch). If the discs are more than half gone I would replace them as long as you are in there. As Bob mentioned, the bike is fairly new with not many miles, I never heard of a clutch spring dieing that soon. I would start with an oil and filter change using a motorcycle oil that specifically states on the label that it is for use with a wet clutch. In this case since you want to get as much old oil out as possible, there is also a drain for the transmission, it is the bottom screw on the middle gear cover. This screw has a copper crush washer that I always replace every time it is removed. worst case is a small oil leak if you reuse it. Once you do the oil change, go for a ride, ride gently so that you do not slip the clutch any more than necessary. Work the clutch a lot so the new oil can get between the plates to flush out the old oil. If this was an oil issue you should start to notice improvement withing a couple hundred miles. If no improvement then it is disassembly time to see what is going on. Skydoc_17 on this site sells a kit that has everything you will need to do the job. If you do get improvement with the oil, I would do another oil change as soon as the improvement stops getting better. There will be a bunch of people chime in with their favorite cheap car oil that they have not had a problem with. It is your choice, I use car oil in my car and motorcycle oil in my motorcycle. I use expensive oil, In my P/U truck it is still going strong at 300K with no burning oil or bearing noises, my mechanic used to laugh at my expensive oil but now says my engine sounds like a new one, and I do not baby it the truck spends a lot of time airborne on logging roads. Since the bike is new to you, I would replace all fluids anyhow just so that you know where you are starting from for future maintenance and you can be sure that someone did not put cheapest wrong thing in just to sell it. This includes engine oil, rear end oil, antifreeze, clutch and brake fluid.

They are like a nest of ants. Not one of them has any intelligence, but still can function as a swarm.