Flyinfool

Everclear is a brand. I used 190 proof Vodka which is the same thing, 95% alky and 5% water. We have a local ordinance than bans everclear by name, so I get the Ambur Vodka.

The cancel unit is the tricky part. It has 2 functions, one is just a timer that will cancel the turn signals after X seconds (15 I think), its second function is to monitor the speedometer to cancel the turn signals after 400 feet. The turn signal will not cancel until both the timer and the distance are satisfied. The start relay and the flasher are easy to replace, It is the cancel part that you may have to build a small pic board for.

One other thing to consider. Since you are coming off of a V twin, especially if that v twin was an HD. These engines like to rev. If you drive it like you would a v twin you will be sure that something is wrong. Mine likes to cruise around 3500 to 4000. Under 3000 rpm it is a real dog. Does not even start to make good power till around 5000. Do not be afraid to hit red line, that ain't hurting nothing on this motor, just do not miss your shift.

My first thought is that if there is not and has not been any pain, that the decay is not down to the nerve. I have had 2 root canals done but I was in extreme pain both times and it really was necessary. I had a dentist once that would do unnecessary work just to get the bill up because he only made about $10 on a filling. He makes over $100 on a root canal or extraction. It might be worth a second opinion.

The organized part is easy. If you have it they will come. So since you said in the spring, in MN, that would mean July? Try not to plan it to close to other events, like Dons MD or the WI MD.

I get emails from HF every couple of days with loads of coupons. To use them they must be printed out. But then of course we need more info on which carrier you are getting and what the mods are and how it works out AND OF COURSE>>>>>

So mount the tire changer in the house where the drum set would have come to.

NOOOoooooo......... The pond monster.......

Oh I had jello shots to go with my rum balls. I just did not find where they were being served like that...... Yes that is how the jello shots must be distributed next year.

just wow.....

OHHHH I missed out on that jello shot......

If Big Tom puts that on a post at the end of the driveway it will cause a riot. His whole yard would fill up with Ventures expecting to be served ice cream......... ......... and we know Big Tom aint gonna share no ice cream..........:essen_018:

:sign yeah that: Maybe even a slightly longer one to ensure full thread engagement. I would really hate to have the bolt partially engaged and end up stripping the crank from the extreme pressure that will be put on it. Since the puller will now be pushing on the head of the bolt trying to push the bolt into the crank.

On my '88 I did the AGM battery and the ground mod on my 2 brush starter. I will do the wire upgrade the next time I am in there that deep. Should my starter motor ever die it will be replaced with a 4 brush. But all of my slow cranking when hot issues are gone for now. Now IF we can just talk one of those that said they would make up cables to follow thru...... I'm just to lazy to make up my own cables right now.......

I doubt that it was the LEDs. I do not have any incandescent lights at all on my bike. They are all LED or HID. I have checked the RR and it is not getting hot.

I see the whole problem, He was NOT riding on the right side of the road........

I think you have 2 separate issues. The monkey inside with a hammer is due to a failing starter clutch. This will require repair. The slow cranking when hot is due to issues with the starter circuit and motor. There are many things to help this. New 4ga cables. AGM Battery. Ground mod as described in this thread. 4 brush starter.

Loctite will damage the plastic parts. Not might, WILL. there are a lot of posts with the stories. If you already did it, then the damage is done. All you can hope for is that none got on the plastic while putting the screw thru the hole. I do not know of any way to neutralize the loctite once it has been there for a day. The loctite weakens the plastic and you may have the screw head pull thru the plastic under stress, or the whole tab will break off easily. Loctite does make a formulation that is plastic safe. Another plastic safe locker is to put a small dab of RTV on the threads. It adds just a little bit of locking action but will still release easily when you want the screw out.

I can tell by the colors that you have mentioned that yours and my tastes are very different. I fall into the same category where all of my artistic ability would fit in a small thinble with plenty of room left over. That is why I am planning a single color paint scheme with a contrasting color (most likely black, maybe even flat black) for all of the trim parts. I hope to have NO chrome left visible when I am done. As far as lines for a 2 tone, you could follow the stock lines with your new colors.

Short answer, No. Or at least not easily. Since you do have access to the internals of the switch box you can do all that you want with just a single relay. Wire up per their instructions except make sure that there is a fuse in the red power lead. Internally the red wire is connected to all 3 switches. Disconnect the red wire from whichever switch will be for your running lights. Add a jumper from the black wire to the switch wire that you just disconnected. The control wire will go to the coil of the relay. The other side of the relay coil will go to switched power. The driving lights will connect with a fused wire from the battery to the contacts of the relay and the other relay contact will go to the lights. The only issue with this is that the LED in the driving light switch will not light whether the switch is on or off. If you really want that switch LED to light when the driving lights are on, then you will need to use a 2 relay setup and forget everything I said above cuz it will all be different.

Can you post a link, pics, something, to the switches that you have. It will help us determine the best way to help you. Are these switches lighted? It sounds like your switch does have a common power and ground. In which case you would need 2 relays for the driving lights. If it is or can be isolated, or if it can have the internal lights rewired, then you just need 1 relay. There are a lot of options depending on exactly what you have and what you want to end up with.

Some people have the mechanical experience and feel to not need a torque wrench all of the time. Other people should never tighten anything without a torque wrench. I have even seen people that should not tighten anything even with a torque wrench.

Back when I worked for a military contractor it was absolutely forbidden to ever put a screw directly into aluminum. ALL threaded holes had to have a Helicoil or some other type of thread insert. For future reference, all Helicoils in aluminum had to be installed with a drop of Zinc Chromate prime,r that helped to lock the coil in place and also resisted any galvanic corrosion. Aluminum can only be torqued so many times before it lets go. I stock many sizes of Helicoils and other types of thread inserts in my basement. Eventually I will have at least all of the common sizes.

Congratulations to mom dad and YamaGranma.

A .410..... I have seen a camper mattress that was mouse eaten right next to the bag of mothballs. AND the mothballs will also keep you out. I never had an issue with mice in my campers, but then my campers are always out in the open with no nearby cover or food sources, this seems to be a deterrent to making it a good home. The mice do like to have to cross open ground to get to food every day. Now if you store the camper in the garage to keep predators out and also store bird seed or grass seed or any other food in that same garage, you have just created the perfect nesting area.