Flyinfool

I just sold my HF trailer that already had all the needed mods and a floor and a topper and all LEDs and even a spare tire for that much.

DANG, @cowpuc typed faster than me,,,,,,,,,,,,,AGAIN.......

The shims are case hardened. Typical case hardening goes .015 to .030 deep. At the factory they are ground to finish size after hardening so there is no way to know how much case is left. I am sure that a range of sizes is made from each batch just by grinding a bit more. So they will all have different thickness of case left. This is why I will only go down 1 or 2 sizes to be sure that there is plenty of case left. One size is 0.05mm or just under .002 inch. I did a test once and took off .010 and did not go thru the case. In use if the case were to thin it could start tot break up and that would be bad. I always grind the side that has the size marked on it, and then mark the new size. Of course it has to be a good shim that I am starting with. You need to measure the shim with a good micrometer, NOT a calipers. You have to check to be sure the center and edges are the same thickness, IF the center is thinner at all, then that shim is worn out. A caliper will only measure the edge thickness and can not get to the center. I have measured shims that had the center warn as much as .005. If you were to install one of these after measuring with a calipers or believing the printed size your clearance would be .005 to big. When you are shooting for .006, that is a LOT to be off. Of course when you install a shim it should always have the marking down so that the cam will not wear off the marking.

Come spring I am planning to sell my generator, there has not been a power outage here since they completely rewired the area 10 years ago. We used to have lights out at least once a month. I also no longer have an RV for it to power.

Actually I keep the surface grinder in my right jacket pocket, The lathe in my left pocket, the vertical Mill in my right pocket, and the horizontal mill in my left jacket pocket. And the WWW does not even get to go in a pocket, it is a busy machine, always running.

It is to early for me to know if I/we can make it, but if I/we do it will be on 4 wheels, and staying at the Pond Monster Inn.

I have now completed the ignition system for the engine. I need a continuous spark to get the fuel to ignite. once the pulse jet is running the flame is self sustaining. this box will stay on the ground and is just for starting. It produces a spark about 3/4 inch long, and has a really hot fire across the electrodes of the spark plug. It is really pretty simple electrically. A 12V battery, A relay wired as a buzzer, which also acts as the points in an old bike, a condenser to try to save the relay contacts a bit, and an automotive ignition coil to step the voltage way up. I also added 4 random flashing LEDs to show that the power is on. I have some "DANGER HIGH VOLTAGE" stickers coming to put by the switch and the output terminals. Next on the list is the Air supply for starting. This will need a source of compressed air and that will need to be mixed with the correct amount of propane to make a nice combustible mixture to blow into the front of the engine. Once this mix ignites inside of the engine I can then turn on the main fuel flow and it should keep running at that point. As soon as I get all of this ground support stuff designed and built I can do the first test fire of the Pulse Jet engine on a test stand. There is still a lot of work to do on the aircraft itself, but that is also coming along little by little.

If you get really desperate and have the next thicker size, I have the technology to grind a shim down to size for you. When I did my bike I really cheated and made shims in sizes that have never been available.

I never mess up. It is all part of the master plan. @cowpuc don't even know where to find my wonderful little machine.

Yamaha did not start making Motorcycles until after the war in 1955. During the war they still made pianos.

Will my older unit fit in that nice looking case?

Rum balls made with Sailor Jerry's are good, I have tried it to save some cash, but still no competition with the real thing. Now be very careful trying to start a competition to see who has the very best balls. Some people might get the wrong idea. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?126101-Rum-Balls-Share-recipes!&p=993823#post993823

A bad stator can strain the RR, and a bad RR can strain the stator. When one is bad it is always wise to test the other. You only need to replace the other if it is actually bad. It is possible to get a brand new bad RR. All electronics suffer from infant mortality where they die at a very young age for no apparent reason. As mentioned, the only thing that can cause high voltage is the RR, but still test the stator as long as you are in there and have all the stator wires disconnected and out in the open. It only takes 5 minutes if you are slow.

That looks like fun, BUT my programing skills are just a bit less than none.....

Or either the head or the cover were not clean leaving some of the old gasket in there. Or whatever you used to hold the gasket in place was not compatible with the rubber of the gasket. Or at some point you added something to the oil that was not compatible with the gasket. Or while you were installing the gasket it was trying to slip out and got pinched and cut before it finally slipped into place. Any normal amount of heat should not hurt the gasket. If at some point you over heated the engine it might have damaged the gasket.

But then I lost my hot COCO somewhere.

Well I took a detour back to the ignition box. I now have the actual circuit all bread boarded up and have started to assemble it into a waterproof case. Of course as I always seem to do I added complexity as I progressed. I have 4 red flashing LEDs to warn that it is powered up. I am estimating it to have 20,000 volts of output. I have added an interlock so that if the case is open the power shuts off. For now I have gone with the original plan of the relay and ignition coil. This setup is giving me about a 3/4 inch long very bright blue nearly continuous spark. when connected to the spark plug I have opened the gap way up and still have a very hot spark that will ignite paper instantly. I am getting close to having it all installed into its water proof case. I will post pics when I finish it. Just waiting for the big brown truck to bring some more parts to mount everything in the case.. I do not know how long the relay will last with this abuse, so I have a spot in the case for a couple of spares and the one in use is in a socket so it will be easy to replace in the field. I have also designed a solid state spark generator and have gotten as far as drawing up the schematic and the printed circuit board layout. I have neither acquired any parts for this version nor done any actual building of it. So far this version just lives on paper.

That depends. If you keep the stock RR then the stator will always put out its max power with the excess being turned into heat by the RR. The HO RR will only pull off the stator what the bike needs so the stator will work less hard and run cooler.

While the HO stators do give more power, they also do not last as long as the stock one. That extra power creates more heat, heat is what takes them out. I went the other route, I reduced the electrical load until the stock stator was giving 14V at 900RPM. If you are interested, I do have a new Ricks HO stator and HO RR.

I would treat it as a used bike. I am guessing that the title was already transferred to the dealer so it will technically be a used bike because it has been titled. Expect to have to do some work on it. Tires for sure, all fluids, (breaks, clutch, coolant, engine oil, and any other fluids it has) possibly rubber hoses and battery. There are parts that do not die from wear or use, they die from age. Some parts age faster when not used. Those parts are 10 years closer to dying, some are already dead. Zero miles is irrelevant, no different than 5,000 miles or so. I would look up the blue book value for that year with low miles and offer that. They can ask anything they want for it and you can offer anything you want, If they really want it gone they may just accept your offer. If they say NO then say "Fine, I will be back next year when it is another year older and still sitting here and offer you less", turn around and head for the door.

You know I am a stickler for details...........

I am still hunting this "Flyingfool" character that you keep giving all the credit to. Someone is gonna get dumped on...................... You can see from the vids just how much fun @cowpuc is having.

Nozzle elevation lowered 5.67°. Reloading now....................

@Sylvester, I am still trying to figure out who this "Flying fool" character is that you are trying to give credit to. We all know where the real credit lies. All these imposters popping up all of a sudden........ Might just have to bury them in genuine WWW. Just ask @cowpuc what can happen over these imposters.....

If it weren't bolted down I could loose a kitchen sink.