Flyinfool

I would do some simple testing. Once you get your new tire installed and a couple of hundred miles on it for break in, try hitting just the rear brake with your stock organic pads and see if that is enough to lock it up. Also practice some full panic stops. If the rear starts to lock up just get off the brakes quick. Do this one up and the bike not loaded. You can then try it again fully loaded. These tests will tell you if the rear is still plenty or if you need to upgrade. The worst case scenario for locking up the rear will be unloaded one up in a panic stop where there is a big weight transfer to the front wheel and nothing holding the rear down. This is where it is easiest to lock the rear and end up in big trouble.

I have been very much watching the regs develop on the USA side. I have not really followed Canada real close. It seems that every time the USA makes a new rule Canada follows and also when Canada makes a new rule the USA is not far behind. The FAA here is on the verge of trying to nearly eliminating RC aviation all together.

What does the meter show across the battery with the engine running. You should never get high voltage to only one place, You are subjecting everything on the bike to that same voltage and it will shorten the life of everything. It is possible that you wired something incorrectly to have the RR not doing its job, but it is also not unheard of to have a brand new bad part.

I called some of the reliners the last time I had sewer issues. The prices started at around $10,000 and went up from there. Part of the problem with those systems is they still have to dig a hole at each end of the run. So i will still have the same size hole in the same place in the basement, plus they will need a hole at the other end meaning digging up the street, and then having to rebuild the street. The pipe reline is the cheap part of the job, and the part they always refer to. They also claim to be cheaper when you would otherwise be digging a trench possibly across a driveway, patio or other expensive landscaping. In those cases it would be cheaper. If I can do the push the pipe thing myself it will end up costing me around $500. the diagnostics will cost more than the repair. Lots of IFs still in the formula. I will see what the final diagnosis is and what the repair estimate is to decide what to do next. Right now I am just trying to line up some options.

Thought I would add for those that do not remember, this was the first holding of the breath. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?134913-Hold-your-breath-I-m-going-in I really hate this waiting game, this is the first time in my life that I have HAD to hire to hire a pro. I have hired a pro to things that I just did not want to do but this the first time I could not do it myself. at this point it is just the diagnostics. When it comes to the actual repair, depending on just what it is I do not know if I am physically still able to dig the hole and push in the pipe, (fighting some health issues) let alone if this would require a more major excavation. Hmmmmmm. maybe a pile of PIZZA and Hotdogs and some cold drinks will make the hole magically happen?

I know that there are no elbows, there could be a slight curvature that does not show up on the camera. Will know more by Sunday afternoon when it either determined that it is a catastrophic failure that requires professional excavation, or a slip fit repair.

Yup It got me again. Once again a section of sewer pipe has caved in. This time it is about 20 feet down stream of the last one. We did manage to get the camera that far down the pipe and there is about a 4 inch dia hole on the roof of the pipe. BUT the chunk of pipe is nowhere to be seen. We think it probably washed farther down the pipe and joined forces with a bigger problem. The actual spot that is blocking the pipe is about another 15 feet down stream from this small roof collapse. we were unable to clear that blockage. we got a hole thru it so that water can at least trickle thru. On Sunday the plumber is coming back to hydro blast it to get the blockage gone. He is sure that this will move the blockage out of the pipe and into the city sewer. He can then get his camera down there to see what is really going on, so we can make a plan of action. The part that has me the most worried is that the actual blockage seems to be right under where the gas co just installed a 4 inch natural gas main last fall. I do NOT want to be digging past a gas main. IF it is just the cave in AND the hydro blasting can clear it out. My initial plan (this was also the plumbers first thought for a plan) is since the pipe is a 6 inch ID and a house only needs a 4 inch line (4 inch is what has been used in nearly all houses for a long time already) is to simply push 4 inch PVC pipes down the existing line all the way to the city sewer line in the middle of the street, and then just connect it to the 4 inch line that ran down the first half of the system last time I went thru this. This should make the sewer line to where it will outlive me. After that I won't care. To do this will require me to dig a hole in the basement floor that will be about 2 feet wide by 6 or 7 feet long and about 2 feet deep. I can then cut the PVC into 5 foot lengths to shove down the line. I am thinking that once I break into the pipe I can have this done in a day. Famous last words, "How long can it take to glue together 12, 5 foot long sections of PVC and shove it on down the hole?" I am guestimating the actual distance at this point, I will of course get real measurements before I start. The real "fun" and $$$$ start after the camera work on Sunday. I got my fingers crossed that it is something that I can do for $300 bux vs a couple 3-5 thou for the pro to have to do.

Any type of lapping compound will work. In a pinch I have even used toothpaste as many have abrasives in the mix. I always used to keep some Ultrabright toothpaste in my tool box for polishing metal. Now I use lapping compound. This trick even works well when using a normal screwdriver by hand to help keep from caming out.

After my first encounter with a burned out headlight bulb out in the middle of nowhere at midnight, I have always kept a spare bulb on the bike. Since the HID does not alter any of the factory wiring, I kept the halogen H4 that I took out as my spare, It is wrapped in soft stuff and tucked away in the faring. In 40 years I have never had a second episode of "DAM its dark out" with the accompanying pucker factor. At least on a 1st gen all you need is 15 minutes and a screwdriver to go back to the stock halogen H4.

Well then Happy New Year and snowballs for everyone.... Or is that hot dogs for everyone..........I get so confused some times.

NEVER say NEVER.... I think it is just beautiful, And I did it without leaving ANY on the ground up here.....

As far as I know there is no circuit that is only on once the engine is running, on either the 1st or 2nd gens. There are a number of ways to accomplish this. I wired a standard relay to act as a latching relay, so that once activated it will remain activated until power is removed (shutting off the bike) I have it wired to the brake light circuit so that as soon as either brake is applied the headlight comes on. I can not get very far without using the rear brake since I have to traverse very loose gravel both at home and at work, and this comprises 90% of my riding. For me this makes it totally automatic, eliminates the on-off-on at startup, still lets me start the bike and work on it without turning on the headlight. You could also wire it to the side stand switch so that the light will come on as soon as you raise the side stand. You could hook it to an oil pressure switch so that if there is oil pressure (this should mean the engine is running) the light is on, you could monitor the stator output so that whenever the stator is putting out voltage the light is on, you could monitor the tach wire (sorry 2nd gens, I have a 1st gen) to see if the engine is running. I looked at a number of these options, some I passed on because if the engine should ever quit, like run out of gas or an electrical or mechanical failure, I do not want to suddenly be rolling along at highway speed in total darkness, I did that once when a headlight bulb burnt out at midnight on a dark country road at 70 mph. LOTS of pucker factor.

First off so glad that you came out OK. Second it does not look like the bike was hurt to bad. Unfortunately the insurance will almost automatically call it totaled just because of its age. And then that designation will live on on the title forever. So even if you put all new parts on and bring it back to like new, it will always have reduced value due to having been totaled once before. Make sure that IF you keep it that the insurance compensates you for that reduced future value. Not to mention that some insurance companies will not cover anything with a salvage title. This is probably the one scenario where having the loudest horns possible can actually save you.

WARNING Technical crap ahead..... An LED that is in a housing designed for the LED will work great. That is what all the new cars and bikes that have LED are. The same goes true the other way, If you could put an halogen into one of these new housings that was designed for LED then the halogen would be way out of focus and perform poorly. You can not make a comparison between a new vehicle that was designed for LED and expect the same results with a vehicle that was designed for halogen and has an LED stuffed into it. A halogen bulb has a fairly small length of wire that is giving off the light and that light is a full spherical output. The reflector and lens are expecting that light to be coming from every angle and a fairly small point in space. A HID bulb is also a fairly small area that is producing light and the light is also a full spherical output to keep the reflector and lens happy. Granted the HID light source is slightly bigger than the filament of the halogen, but not by much. ALL LEDs have a directional light output, they concentrate the light in just one direction and it gets dimmer as you move off center. The LED bulb makers compensate for this by putting multiple LEDs in the same bulb pointed in different directions to try to simulate a spherical light output. the problem is that there is a circuit board and heat sink in between the LEDs spacing then farther from where they are supposed to be for the light to be focused properly. Tech part is over. RANT part ahead...... I am a bit of a light snob, I really hate lights that are not done correctly, and/or aimed properly. Because not only are you not able to see as well as you should, but you are blinding me and everyone else on the road at the same time so that no one around you can see well either. It is really important to check the aim of your headlights after changing the bulb. In the last 40 years I have yet to replace a headlight and not have to tweak the aim at least a little bit to have it exactly correct. The last set of HID that I bought was for my P/U truck. I bought the Morimoto brand, they are not cheap, and I have been very happy with them. They were very close to being plug and play. The wires I had to find places for was the battery power and a ground for the relays. In my truck I then added a relay that has a 10 second delay so that the HID do not light when the key turns on, then go off for cranking and then try to relight as soon as the engine starts, this on-off-on operation is very hard on the bulbs. These bulbs have held up to all of my off road activities so they should hold up on a bike to. I put the 50W in my truck, you would want to stick with the 35W for a bike. My bike has the 35W.

As I mentioned early, I hate throwing money at a problem. $250 worth of new parts would have fixed the same problem. BUT I am old, stubborn and cheap, a dangerous combination.

I am still a fan of HID. I put HID in everything I drive. There is no brighter bulb yet. LED is getting close in brightness for some of the high end bulbs. Anything in LED that is affordable most of the add is lies and misinformation. The biggest issue with LED is that the light emitting elements are way bigger than the filament of the bulbs they are replacing, as many have noticed above this causes poor focus which results in very bright light but not much projection down the road, and due to the non focus there is very little difference between HI and LO beam. Also many of the bright LEDs actually draw more power than the halogens they are replacing. Most LEDs will still need to have a driver installed somewhere. ALL HID will need to have a driver installed. You could hook it up to not have to do all of the CMU jumpering but it is not recommended as the bikes wiring can not handle the startup surge to fire the HID. I have mine hooked up, so that it does not try to light while starting, this prevents the on-off-on at startup that is bad for the HID. If you are after max light down the road you will want a color number of 4500K or 5000K. Lower numbers will give a yellow light like a fog light and higher numbers sacrifice light output for the popular bluer colors.

I'm keeping an eye on the both of you..........

WHAT???

You are correct, the pilot goes off when the burner shuts down. Every time the blower was hung the thermostat was calling for heat, the pilot ligt was lit and the blower was running. So it may have been the pilot coming on, making just enough heat to turn on the fan and then just sitting in that state because the pilot was not hitting the flame sensor. Since my cleaning of the flame sensor and realignment of the pilot flame shield the furnace has not missed a beat.

I am now in wait and see mode. If the blower goes back to not working correctly then I will be pretty confident that it is the switch. The switch is directly switching motor power, no relay. There is a relay but that just selects the blower speed. Either speed still goes thru the blower switch. My volt meter says that when the blower is on and should not be the switch is closed. This gives me time to work on diabolical devices in the basement while I monitor the furnace.

Furnace is now in watch and see mode.

Tank you, but I don't do rain, just

You are all correct, this is keeping me away from the WWW, I just do not have time to go out and turn it off........ I got the pilot unit out and I think it was the problem, there is a flame shield that forces the flame over the flame sensor, Way back when the furnace was built, someone did not use a second wrench when they tightened the gas line to the orifice and twisted the flame shield about 30° so only the very edge of the flame was hitting the sensor. The sensor also had a good coat of carbon on it. I straightened out the flame shield and cleaned up the sensor with a folded piece of paper. Now when the pilot comes on the main burner lights instantly, or at least within a half second of the pilot coming on. It NEVER lit that fast in the 30 years I had it. It always took 3-5 seconds of pilot before main burner light. Along the same lines, the pilot is a pretty big flame, it is directly below the blower switch. I am wondering if the big 6 inch high pilot flame was just enough heat to turn the blower on?? Since I cleaned and realigned the pilot the blower has not hung either? So far the beast seems to be cycling normally.

This furnace is one of the early high efficiency ones, I think it was listed as 95%. It has the PVC exhaust but still uses inside air for combustion. Here is a pic of the blower switch. it is p/n 1002743. I did pull out my blower switch and it was nice and clean. I did try bumping up the shut off temp by 5 degrees and that made no difference. the no fan overheat part of the switch is factory set to be 30 degrees above the fan start/stop setting. The plan for today is to pull the burner assy to get at the pilot and see if cleaning it up will help. I will pull some panels to see if I can get to the heat exchanger to check for holes. Because it is an old furnace and It has had the heat exchanger replaced 6 times already I do have CO detectors all over the house including one in the duct work to hopefully avoid the waking up dead part. If it will cost more than $200 to fix this thing I will have to bite the bullet and start furnace shopping now. I did a bit of looking and I can get a 98% efficient one for $1900, I would have to do my own install. I have no problem with the electrical hookups, the PVC intake and exhaust work or the gas line. It is only the modifications to the duct work that I do not have technology for. Maybe I need to add a sheet metal brake to my shop as part of the cost..... Part of the problem with the install is that I want to move the furnace location over about 6 feet so there will be a bunch of duct work involved. And of course I will also have to move a cold water pipe out of the way which could end up having to replumb the entire cold water side of the house......

I know we have a few HVAC folk around here. It is getting a bit chilly at times around here. I think I might have 2 unrelated issues happening at the same time which is helping to keep me confused. The patient is a 30 year old Tempstar. Model #867 .769423, on natural gas. The symptoms are. 1. Forced air blower will not shut off. It just keeps blowing cold air. If the thermostat asks for more heat while the blower is on it will light the pilot light but not the main burner, and just keep blowing cold air. I have pulled out the blower switch to see if it might be dirty but it is not and all of the switches move and open and close as they should. while it is blowing the cold air the contacts are staying closed keeping the fan on. A wack with the handle of a screwdriver (technical tap) will open the switch contacts, which shuts off the fan and opens the gas valve to the main burner and normal function is restored for a few hours. 2. The main burner does not want to light. The pilot is lighting (electronic ignition for the pilot) I checked for power to the main burner gas valve and there is no power going to it to tell it to open. BUT all it takes is a tiny puff of air directed at the pilot, or even just a wave of my hand to move some air toward the pilot and the power to the gas valve immediately comes on and the main burner lights and then the rest of the cycle is normal, unless the blower forgets to shut off at the end of the cycle. All this without actually touching the furnace, just the tiniest puff of air will trigger it. My guesses, 1. The air control switch is on its way out, and may need to be replaced. about $110 2 screws and 6 wires, should be a 10 minute job. I just hate to take a $120 shot in the dark. 2. The pilot sensor is bad or dirty. I can not see it without significant disassembly. I am thinking that the small puff of air is just enough to push the pilot over a bit so that it heats the last couple of degrees needed to trigger the sensor. Could be a dirty sensor or dirt around the orifice for the pilot making the flame the wrong shape. or it could be the sensor on its way out. The other thought, I did have to replace the inducer last winter. I sure does not sound like it is turning 3400 rpm. It used to make a lot more noise than it does now. I am not sure how to get in there to actually measure the speed. I hope it is not that, not only was it rather expensive, but I had a hard time finding someone that actually had one in stock. Again it is $110 for a new pilot burner and sensor assembly and $222 for the module that controls the gas valves. I hate throwing money at a problem. I was planning to replace the furnace the summer of 2020.