Flyinfool

Well then you can get a good start on your next lifetimes worth of snow......

I should know him, that looks lie my sofa.

If you are happy, I am happy.

The contacts that you are replacing. One of the contacts connects to one of the wires coming out of the pump and the other side of the contact connects to the coil that you want to measure. The other wire that comes out of the pump is the other side of the coil.

I'm speakin geek????? using a multi-meter set to the the lowest ohms range, connect to the 2 wires that go to the coil of the pump. One of these will be one of the wires that come out of the pump. The other will be connected to one of the points inside the pump. The other point will be connected to the other wire that comes out of the pump. You will get a reading, compare that reading to a known good pump, it should be similar. If your coil is much different than a known good one then you may have a bad pump motor. Next set the meter to the highest ohms range. Connect from one of the wires that go to the pumps coil, and the other lead to any metal on the outside of the pump. the meters display should show the same thing as it does with the leads connected to nothing. This will tell you if the coil is grounding out internally. This would also be a bad pump motor.

Can you measure the coil resistance and compare that to a known good coil? This will tell if the coil is damaged causing an excessive current draw. Also check both wires to see if the coil may be partially shorted to ground.

Do we need to send Atlanta another reminder of winter is all about???? So soon you forget.......

Since there is only 4 votes left to go and one candidate is ahead by 9...............

I cant help with this one. I have a 1st gen so it is already fast. As mentioned above 50/50 is the best mix. The antifreeze is also an anti boil so it is needed at both extremes of temperature. The antifreeze also lubricates the seal on the water pump and helps to control corrosion inside of the cooling system. This one is easy too. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68554

WOW! With as much as those points are burned away, I wonder if you have some other electrical issue also going on. How is the voltage across the battery with the engine at ~3,000 RPM? Is there a condenser built into the pump to help control arcing? If so does that get replaced with the points? Could you have a partially shorted coil in the pump that is drawing more power than the points can handle?

Great to hear. So how did day 1 go?

Hiding.......

Nice job. But you forgot the pics.........

That sure do look like the same bulbs. I'll be curious as to how they work compared to both the stock bulb and HID.

For instance, Here is a LED headlight bulb that is rated 50 watt because it actually is 50 watts and draws 50 watts of power. http://www.hidvisioncanada.com/led-1800lm-H4-H7-H11-9005-9006-headlights.html Here they list all of the specifications and hide nothing. But notice that honest power has a price tag. If you look at true High power LEDs you will see a common theme, big heat sinks and/or cooling fans.

BUT, in ALL of the adds I see on TV for LED lighting for the home and all of the in store packaging that I find, they always state both the actual watts, and the "equivalent watts". So they are stating that this LED will put out the light of a 60 Watt incandescent bulb but only draws 6 watts. The headlights in question make no mention of equivalent watts, or lux, or lumen, candle power, mcd or anything else related to light output other than watts. Watts is a measure of power used and has no relationship to light output. These do specifically state that there are sixteen 5 watt LEDs in the bulb to get 80 total watts. Actual 5 watt LEDs are fairly common and are about the size of what those in the picture look like. The LED lights I bought to add to my bike are listed and advertised as 20 Watts, they actually do draw 20 watts of power, I measured it. That is the correct way to sell something. I do not like misleading adds, it forces me to think, what else are they stating incorrectly that might be important that I did not catch? All they would have to do is to change the add to say that the light output of these LEDs are "equivalent" to an 80 watt halogen and it would make everything plausible. As stated the ad is contradicting itself and renders it unbelievable. When I look at an ad, I only look at what is actually printed or stated, I do not fill in what I think should be there, or what I think they meant. They said what they meant.

I'm sorry to hear that you are having issues. I hope it all works out in the end. If there is anything that any of us can do to help just say the word.

Still keeping my fingers crossed for you.

There are 5 watt LEDs. I have several 10 watt LEDs. Yes they do draw the amps to say they are 5 and 10 watt individual LEDs. They are VERY bright. But nowhere in that vid or on that page does it say 5 watt or 80 watt equivalent.

Storing it with a quarter tank of gas is also very bad for the gas and carbs. Try some fresh gas with a heavy dose of Sea Foam or Techtron.

My first impression is to not trust them. I avoid places that LIE to me. In the video on that page they are claiming it is 80 watts, with 16, 5 watt LEDs. Then they claim it is only a 1/2 Amp power draw so you will save energy. It is pretty simple math, 80 watts at 12 volts is 6.67 Amps. Your stock headlight is 55 watts at 12 volts draws 4.58 Amps.

Start with some fresh gas with a heavy dose of fresh Techtron in it. A few months can be all it needs to gum up the carbs. Your symptoms sure sound like gummed up carbs. I never tried Techtron for storage, I've always used Sea Foam.

Is it leaking oil at all? If its not leaking oil, then your air leak is at the top. Either the Schrader valve or the cap seal. Some soapy water may help find it.

Interesting, 'not for me, but interesting.

I know the PCW and Skydocs kits will increase pull at the lever, I do not know about the Barrnet. But the simple physics are that IF you clamp the clutch pack with more pressure It will also take more pressure to release the clutch. It may help a bit to replace the half disk with a full disk. This will give you more square inches of surface area doing the gripping without raising the spring pressure. The slipping is caused when the stock spring weakens with age. You may want to replace the stock spring with a new stock spring every few years just to keep it fresh. IF she lets you know immediately when it starts slipping, you should be able to just do a spring change on the road. You have to be slipping it pretty bad for a long time to actually wear out the clutch. If you are going to look for a different master cylinder, you would want one with a smaller piston diameter to reduce lever pressure. A simple test is while at highway speed, in 5th gear, pull full throttle for just a few seconds, that is where the slip will first show up. Then you can fix it before it becomes a problem.