Flyinfool

WHY would you ask "how fast and how far ? " WHY would you not just go and find out?

If the voltage on the red/white wire is low and all other wires are still at 12 V then you have a bad connection somewhere. This will take a while to walk you thru this, there are a lot of connections in that red/white wire. Please do not be upset if we go down to to low of a level, we do not know your experience level. Start at the very beginning with the fuse block. Do you still have the stock fuse panel with the glass fuses? If you can get the bike into the condition where you are seeing low voltage on the red/white wire at the relay. Check the voltage on both sides of the Ignition fuse (15A fuse) this is the beginning of the red/white wire. Do not just touch the ends of the fuse but get to the wires themselves. Try not to move the wires while testing them, you might just move them into a good position from the bad position they were in.

When you first turn on the key, will the engine crank with the starter button? Will it start? Even if the fuel pump is not running, it should still start and run till the float bowls run out of fuel. When you said that the relay was clicking rapidly when you turned on the key. It is normal for the fuel pump to click rapidly and it does sound like a relay clicking. Are you sure it is the relay that you are hearing clicking and not the fuel pump? IF the float bowls are already full you will not hear any clicking when you first turn on the key. The fuel pump only clicks while it is pumping, once the system is full it will not click anymore till there is someplace for it to pump fuel into.

But if it was the switch, that could cause the starter motor to run, but the clutch would still not engage to cause the extreme over speed of the starter motor. The starter clutch would / should still allow the crankshaft to continue spinning at engine rpm and the starter to spin at starter RPM. Yes this would wear out the starter motor, but it would not blow it up from an extreme over speed. I still think that this has to be an issue with the starter clutch. But then I could be wrong again.... That "oil wire" is supposed to be part of the stator cooling, it is supposed to help spray the oil coming out of the hollow bolt outward to cool the stator. Can you post pics of the starter motor destruction and of the starter clutch parts? Maybe we can see something you are missing. I do not remember ever seeing a post with your exact symptoms, so we are all guessing a bit here.

Just telling him that others are looking for chrome does not carry much weight, sellers know that people will say anything to get what they want. On the other hand, requests from a bunch of different emails will get a sellers attention real quick.

Happy Birthday Dan. You get to share a BD with my youngest daughter.

For intermittent electrical problems, I have hooked up a LED idiot light to different points on the suspected circuit to find where the failure point is. In your case connect a LED across the fuel pump. This will tell you if it is getting power during the failure. If the LED goes out at the same time as the pump goes out you then know the failure is something other than the pump, if the light stays on but the pump goes out then the problem is the pump. each time you verify a component with the LED, move the LED to a different part of the circuit. There is nothing tougher than finding an intermittent issue, especially while on the road.

Maybe Bobs had toooo much Black Death.......

Make sure that whichever converter you get is rated for either LED or incandescent. If it does not say then it probably is incandescent only.

It may go without saying but plan to visit the northern states in the summer. Winter and bikes do not mix well. During the summer, the south is dangerously hot. With that said, there is no state safe from snow, or safe from extreme heat. As has been mentioned most events are on the calender.

Has this police chief been known to party with Ford?

And I got the second starter clutch that Dano did, It has also been flawless. I have never heard of a starter clutch going in and out of engagement while riding. But if it did engage while at speed, you could end up driving the starter at 70,000 RPM. Take a good look at the surface of the 72T gear where the roller run on, if there are any visible lines pressed into it, it is toast. When you opened it up, was everything well coated with oil, I do not know if it is possible to have a plugged oil line and starving the clutch of oil. It helps us all if you fill in what bike you have in your profile, so that it appears under your name. Sometimes it makes a big difference in the answer that you get to a question. See this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Welcome aboard

I have often wondered if those systems can distinguish between a gunshot, a fire cracker, and a car backfire.

There is never any force applied the the straight section, that is only there as a handle. the ramp which is what does the work is identical to the old version. So leverage is identical. Cost will be the same or slightly less than the last batch, which was $50 including PP and shipping to USA costs. I wont be able to finalize the cost until I actually get some made to see how much it actually costs me to make them. All I am after is to break even on my costs. The last batch I lost money on every one I sold. But I learned some things along the way that will help this time thru. Besides I like making chips fly.

I have never even thought of trying soda blasting for paint removal on plastic. It sounds like an interesting concept. Along the same lines I wonder if something much less abrasive than sand, like maybe ground corn cob would go thru my sand blaster and not remove to much plastic ........ Hmmmmmm.......

SAY WHAT????? The ground is never switched in a 4 wire system. It is the 12V that is either flashed or steady on for break and turn. That is why there is just one ground wire and a separate wire for left and a separate wire for right turn/brake lights. The same filament is used for brake and turn signals.

Since you already have a trailer hitch, is your trailer a 4 wire or 5 wire? If your bike is already wired for a 4 wire trailer then you already have the box that Bob mentioned already installed. If your trailer is a 5 wire, then just get the harness from M61A1MECH.

It will take a while to get these done. I am currently running a test with some cheap soft scrap steel that I had laying around just to verify the process and fixtures. I just ordered a special cutting tool that I will need. It should be here by end of week. If all works out then I will order the bar of strong steel and go to wackin. I'll keep you all posted in this thread

Another option to try. get a wood dowel just a bit smaller than the battery. Put a blob of JB Weld on the end and drop it on top of the battery. Let it cure for a good 24 hours. Pull the whole works back out. Be careful to NOT glue the whole works to the side of the tube.

There has been a lot of talk lately of folks doing there valve shims. I had made a batch of the shim tools once before and sold them out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55831 Maybe its the long winter or just a bout of insanity, but I am thinking of making another batch of about 30 pieces. I have come up with a new design with all of the same functional dimensions but the new shape will be a lot easier for me to make than the last batch. I am wondering if there is enough interest to justify the expense of doing another run???

In a moment of insanity I have once again redesigned the Valve shim to to make it easier for me to manufacture. I have not yet decided if I want to invest in the tooling to make another run of these tools. I guess I have been decided......http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84823

You don't need to put the oven on its highest setting......... start by putting it in the freezer over night, that will make everything shrink. then use a heat gun or hair drier to heat the outer tube, this will cause it to expand, and the cold battery will still be shrunk from the freezer. If this does not work, then you will need more violent methods. Is the stuck battery sliding up and down but just wont get past the lip, or is it not moving at all and stuck at the bottom? Each of those legs holds 3 cells, did the other 2 already come out? If all else fails, an adequate amount of high explosives can make any problem go away.....

Noooooo Not the freezer, the oven....

Ratchet jaw..... I mean fingers.......

There are many different ways to make this part. I used the method that best fit my available technology. I have since redesigned the tool to make it much easier for me to make should I ever wish to make another run.