Flyinfool

It will take a while to get these done. I am currently running a test with some cheap soft scrap steel that I had laying around just to verify the process and fixtures. I just ordered a special cutting tool that I will need. It should be here by end of week. If all works out then I will order the bar of strong steel and go to wackin. I'll keep you all posted in this thread

Another option to try. get a wood dowel just a bit smaller than the battery. Put a blob of JB Weld on the end and drop it on top of the battery. Let it cure for a good 24 hours. Pull the whole works back out. Be careful to NOT glue the whole works to the side of the tube.

There has been a lot of talk lately of folks doing there valve shims. I had made a batch of the shim tools once before and sold them out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55831 Maybe its the long winter or just a bout of insanity, but I am thinking of making another batch of about 30 pieces. I have come up with a new design with all of the same functional dimensions but the new shape will be a lot easier for me to make than the last batch. I am wondering if there is enough interest to justify the expense of doing another run???

In a moment of insanity I have once again redesigned the Valve shim to to make it easier for me to manufacture. I have not yet decided if I want to invest in the tooling to make another run of these tools. I guess I have been decided......http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84823

You don't need to put the oven on its highest setting......... start by putting it in the freezer over night, that will make everything shrink. then use a heat gun or hair drier to heat the outer tube, this will cause it to expand, and the cold battery will still be shrunk from the freezer. If this does not work, then you will need more violent methods. Is the stuck battery sliding up and down but just wont get past the lip, or is it not moving at all and stuck at the bottom? Each of those legs holds 3 cells, did the other 2 already come out? If all else fails, an adequate amount of high explosives can make any problem go away.....

Noooooo Not the freezer, the oven....

Ratchet jaw..... I mean fingers.......

There are many different ways to make this part. I used the method that best fit my available technology. I have since redesigned the tool to make it much easier for me to make should I ever wish to make another run.

You coming to the WI MD? Or you could come down for my M&E tomorrow (March 15). PS the ad only ran for a year .........

Now that would be fun to watch.......

I have found that helmet sizing is all over the map. I was at a shop to get a new helmet, I was looking at 2 different style helmets from the same manufacture. In one style I needed a medium in another style from the same manufacturer I needed an extra large. I ended up buying the XL one.

I seem to remember some nightmare about that also. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55831

One stripped out screw head can eat up that $20 real quick. Not to mention all of the screw heads that did not quite strip but now just look ugly. I got mine at the local Hobby shop for around $15 for the set, I have yet to wear one out.

You know the rules.....

Another place to find JIS screw drivers locally is at your local Hobby shop that caters to RC cars and/or RC helicopters. Most of the screws that go into plastic are JIS. Modelers are just as anal if not more so than bikers are when it comes to the right tool.

I don't have a problem with the concept of red light cams. But I do have a big issue with the implementation of the cameras. There are times that you can not help but to still be in the intersection when the light turns red. For instance, IF the yellow is timed for a 45 speed limit but you are traveling 20 due to conditions you will get a ticket, even though the light was green when you entered the intersection. OR it is a proven fact that some cities shorten the length of yellow on some cam equipped intersections to almost guaranty a ticket is issued on every flop of the light. At the moment red light cams are illegal in WI. There is a constant effort to change that. I hope those efforts continue to fail. If they do get the cams here, I will be reinforcing my back bumper.

Great to hear. I know he worked his butt off to get there.

1) LEDs will do that. 2) If you are putting LED turn signals in all 4 corners you only need 2 load resistors. not one per LED. 3) So it looks like the CAN bus LEDS will not have any power savings over incandescent at all since the resistor is always in use, including the driving lights. 4) Correct, so not a big deal. OK so now we need more details on these "options" that need a separate battery .... I love playing with electricity.

There used to be a lighted reflector available that I think had about five 194 incandescent bulbs in it. They are very rare and hard to find and real expensive when you do find them. Here is what I did, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41588.

Just out of curiosity. Is there room to drill the axle and use a castle nut and cotter pin like the 1st gens?

I get a lot of weird fasteners from Fastenal.

Did you try Fastenal? Or Nutty or Agri Supply

What size thread is it?

My bike is still safely buried behind a wall of snow and ice. Maybe they will have the roads fixed by the time I can get it out. Kind of like natures way of protecting me from myself.

Why are you so infatuated with staring at nuts???