Flyinfool

Yup backrest is a pain while getting on and off the bike. But I figure that I spend very little time getting on and off the bike compared to the amount of time I spend riding it in comfort.

Hummingbird is suthun folk.....

So then WHY did Ruffy get a Rocket III instead of a 1st gen?

And of what possible use are more than 9 unloaded guns in the house???? All of my guns in the house are loaded all the time unless I am cleaning them.

??? You mean the fuel petcock? That should have no effect at all on voltages. I have to think about this one now.

If you unplugged the connector then there will only be 12V on one of the red/white wires. as a test, hook a jumper across the red/white wires in the connecter to see what the voltage is at the relay.

In case you are interested here is the thread that I made while I was chasing my intermittent electrical issues. Coincidentally mine also involved the red/white wire...... Unfortunately I became fairly intimate with that red/white circuit.... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79290

The glass fuses in these bike are very well known to cause a lot of electrical grief. It is highly recommended to replace the glass fuse panel with an AGM fuse panel. Skydoc_17 sells a kit with good instructions on how to do this. Although if you have 12V in the wires at the fuse panel then that is not likely your issue at this time. The next place that the red white wire goes is to the kill switch on the right handlebar. The wire bundle that comes down from the handlebar has a connector in the right side of the faring. If you already are in to the relay then you should also be able to get to this connector. There are 2 red/white wires in that connector. Check to see if they both show 12V while the relay is showing 10. If one of the wires has 10V and the other 12V. then you have a dirty contact in either the connector or the switch its self. The switch can be disassembled for cleaning the contacts. Give each of the wire a gentle tug to be sure it is well crimped, Last summer I had a loose crimp in that connector that drove me nuts for over a month trying to find find my intermittent connection.

WHY would you ask "how fast and how far ? " WHY would you not just go and find out?

If the voltage on the red/white wire is low and all other wires are still at 12 V then you have a bad connection somewhere. This will take a while to walk you thru this, there are a lot of connections in that red/white wire. Please do not be upset if we go down to to low of a level, we do not know your experience level. Start at the very beginning with the fuse block. Do you still have the stock fuse panel with the glass fuses? If you can get the bike into the condition where you are seeing low voltage on the red/white wire at the relay. Check the voltage on both sides of the Ignition fuse (15A fuse) this is the beginning of the red/white wire. Do not just touch the ends of the fuse but get to the wires themselves. Try not to move the wires while testing them, you might just move them into a good position from the bad position they were in.

When you first turn on the key, will the engine crank with the starter button? Will it start? Even if the fuel pump is not running, it should still start and run till the float bowls run out of fuel. When you said that the relay was clicking rapidly when you turned on the key. It is normal for the fuel pump to click rapidly and it does sound like a relay clicking. Are you sure it is the relay that you are hearing clicking and not the fuel pump? IF the float bowls are already full you will not hear any clicking when you first turn on the key. The fuel pump only clicks while it is pumping, once the system is full it will not click anymore till there is someplace for it to pump fuel into.

But if it was the switch, that could cause the starter motor to run, but the clutch would still not engage to cause the extreme over speed of the starter motor. The starter clutch would / should still allow the crankshaft to continue spinning at engine rpm and the starter to spin at starter RPM. Yes this would wear out the starter motor, but it would not blow it up from an extreme over speed. I still think that this has to be an issue with the starter clutch. But then I could be wrong again.... That "oil wire" is supposed to be part of the stator cooling, it is supposed to help spray the oil coming out of the hollow bolt outward to cool the stator. Can you post pics of the starter motor destruction and of the starter clutch parts? Maybe we can see something you are missing. I do not remember ever seeing a post with your exact symptoms, so we are all guessing a bit here.

Just telling him that others are looking for chrome does not carry much weight, sellers know that people will say anything to get what they want. On the other hand, requests from a bunch of different emails will get a sellers attention real quick.

Happy Birthday Dan. You get to share a BD with my youngest daughter.

For intermittent electrical problems, I have hooked up a LED idiot light to different points on the suspected circuit to find where the failure point is. In your case connect a LED across the fuel pump. This will tell you if it is getting power during the failure. If the LED goes out at the same time as the pump goes out you then know the failure is something other than the pump, if the light stays on but the pump goes out then the problem is the pump. each time you verify a component with the LED, move the LED to a different part of the circuit. There is nothing tougher than finding an intermittent issue, especially while on the road.

Maybe Bobs had toooo much Black Death.......

Make sure that whichever converter you get is rated for either LED or incandescent. If it does not say then it probably is incandescent only.

It may go without saying but plan to visit the northern states in the summer. Winter and bikes do not mix well. During the summer, the south is dangerously hot. With that said, there is no state safe from snow, or safe from extreme heat. As has been mentioned most events are on the calender.

Has this police chief been known to party with Ford?

And I got the second starter clutch that Dano did, It has also been flawless. I have never heard of a starter clutch going in and out of engagement while riding. But if it did engage while at speed, you could end up driving the starter at 70,000 RPM. Take a good look at the surface of the 72T gear where the roller run on, if there are any visible lines pressed into it, it is toast. When you opened it up, was everything well coated with oil, I do not know if it is possible to have a plugged oil line and starving the clutch of oil. It helps us all if you fill in what bike you have in your profile, so that it appears under your name. Sometimes it makes a big difference in the answer that you get to a question. See this thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Welcome aboard

I have often wondered if those systems can distinguish between a gunshot, a fire cracker, and a car backfire.

There is never any force applied the the straight section, that is only there as a handle. the ramp which is what does the work is identical to the old version. So leverage is identical. Cost will be the same or slightly less than the last batch, which was $50 including PP and shipping to USA costs. I wont be able to finalize the cost until I actually get some made to see how much it actually costs me to make them. All I am after is to break even on my costs. The last batch I lost money on every one I sold. But I learned some things along the way that will help this time thru. Besides I like making chips fly.

I have never even thought of trying soda blasting for paint removal on plastic. It sounds like an interesting concept. Along the same lines I wonder if something much less abrasive than sand, like maybe ground corn cob would go thru my sand blaster and not remove to much plastic ........ Hmmmmmm.......

SAY WHAT????? The ground is never switched in a 4 wire system. It is the 12V that is either flashed or steady on for break and turn. That is why there is just one ground wire and a separate wire for left and a separate wire for right turn/brake lights. The same filament is used for brake and turn signals.

Since you already have a trailer hitch, is your trailer a 4 wire or 5 wire? If your bike is already wired for a 4 wire trailer then you already have the box that Bob mentioned already installed. If your trailer is a 5 wire, then just get the harness from M61A1MECH.