Flyinfool

In the tech section there is complete write up of all of the tests for a non charging system. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297 This has all of the steps compiled from many different threads and personal experience all laid out in a logical step by step order to follow. Written for a non electrical person to follow.

:ice_awesome-vi46644:sign woo hoo: Are you exited to know it is almost over?

I have yet to see a practical electric vehicle. This does not appear to be an exception. To be practical it has to make it to work and back on a charge with a good safety margin of battery power.

I am running a 35W Bi-Xenon from HID Country. I got mine before their service went down the tubes and they closed up. It is believed that they have reopened under a different name. I had a total of 7 HIDs from them for various applications and never had a problem with any of them, but others had some problems. I am now shopping for new lights for my new truck and have not yet decided on which ones to get. I sure feel like I was hatched in 1922........ :backinmyday: :backinmyday: :backinmyday:

I did not know this was an Ignitech. That is definitely another possibility.

Hmmmm....... Thats an interesting one. The only thing I can think of is dirty contacts in the side stand switch that are not quite making the connection and the voltage getting thru is right on the threshold of shutting it down or letting it run. This is purely a WAG on my part.

I can see people using the Reply all in a case like that. If everyone got the email chewing me out I would want everyone to know it wasn't me.........

Could be, Likely is, But I know I have lived thru that meeting in person where I now work.

Looks like fun but $115K for the kit that you still have to build. If I build a plane my plan is for a KitFox S7 Supersport

I never tried to measure just how much current it takes to keep the reserve lighting module on a 1st gen happy.

I took the paint codes into my local paint supplier and he got that same glazed over look. Said he did not have anything to tell him what those colors were. But he also had no problem mixing up a pint of paint that matches perfectly. The computer scan got it close and then he tweaked it by eye. I could see no differences as he added a drop of this and a drop of that until it was just right.

Glad you are OK!!! Another thing to check real close. The right crash bar likes to flex back, crack the plastic elbow that comes out of the water pump, and then spring back to its normal position looking all innocent as if saying "Nope not me, I didn't crack that pipe :whistling:" All it takes is just the slightest dent and it will grow into coolant leak over time.

Interesting Not what I envisioned from your first description. But I like it

Me either.....

yes you can mount the new TCI on top of the air cleaner and leave the old one where it is. The factory wire harness is long enough to do this with no modifications. Does the 92 still have the issue with the 8 diodes that die of old age? Replacing these will never bring a bad TCI back to life, but if one of those 8 diodes fails it will take the TCI with it. Replacing them is a preventive measure. There are people that have opened up their TCI to change the diodes and found liquid water inside. Baking can remove the water. Skydoc_17 sells a kit with good instructions for replacing the factory glass fuse block with a modern one. Well worth it. That red/black wire is only the accessory circuit for the radio, no need to worry about that right now.

I have HID on my bike this being its 4th year. I love the light output and the power savings. My HID is 35 watts The stock halogen is 50/60 Watts. The LED H4s that I have looked at are 32/64 watts. I don't know if the HID is really "scattering" the light or not, all I know is I can see a lot farther down the road with HID than I could see with a halogen. So I am assuming the focal point must be right. I do carry the old halogen bulb on the bike so if the HID ever goes out it is just plug the old bulb back in. I would carry a spare headlight bulb regardless of what bulb technology I am using. I have had a headlight burn out at night on a very dark country road.

I have one jug of apple pie left in the fridge, right next to the Rum balls.

You forgot; Democrats Republicans Tea Party SEX Christmas Dirty rotten scoundrels There hows that?

So how well does it do lighting up the road at night at a distance.

Nope

You said that the PO installed a fan switch because in traffic the temp was getting up to the red. This is exactly how it is supposed to work. The fan comes on just as the needle hits the red. Take the switch out and let the bike run at its designed temperature. I know that some people think that getting near red is bad. in this case up to red is fine, into the red is an issue. Running the fan all of time when it is not needed will just make it wear out sooner and put a lot more strain on the electrical system. Learning which way to configure the vents for different heat requirements is important. There are vents that when open are designed to pull engine heat up to the rider for cold weather riding. There are also heat shields above the engine that may be missing.

My stock of free side stand plates is growing. This is just todays haul. I have more at home.

See, Just like GodLover, you can think about leaving but you never really can. Glad you are staying.

Glad you are staying, and that you have seen the light.

Start at the beginning. If the relay is clicking then the horn button circuits are working. So start at the battery. There should be a wire to a fuse, from the fuse to the relay. 1. Check for 12V at the fuse 2. Check for 12V at the relay. 3. Check for 12V coming out of the relay with the horn button pressed. 4. Check for 12 V on the + wire at the horn with the horn button pressed. 5. There should be a wire from the horn - to ground. Check this wire to see if there is 12V at the horn end with the button pressed. Report back.