Flyinfool

No eclipse here in Wisconsin, it is snowing.....:snow2: Besides, I need my beauty sleep, LOTS of it......

That procedure does help. I was able to get it all done without aking the radiator all the way out, but I did have to take out all of its mounting bolts so it could move around a little. The thermostat housing did have to come out. I would not reuse any of the o rings. they are all old and hard and new ones are cheap. If your starter is dragging or slipping it is more likely the starter clutch that is accessed from the left engine cover. What exactly is your starter doing?

Hey Cowpuc. Just cuz you been soooo nice to me I sent you a present over the lake, Did you get it yet????:snow2:

160 feet is about 156 more feet than I got in this weekend. My bike is stuffed into an 8 x 10 steel shed along with all of the yard tools and STUFF. So to work on it I get to push it back about 2 feet to have room to get it up on the center stand and have room to work on the front end of it. Then at the end of the day I get to climb on, fire it up and ride it the 2 feet back into the corner of the shed so I can get the door closed. So I got in 2 rides of 2 feet each this weekend.

Would it be safer to just keep a jack with the trailer to always make sure of the correct angle on the ramp? Since the plate is now lower than the plug was, what will happen when the skid plate catches on the edge of the trailer. can it tear the mounting bolts out of the engine? Since the plate is lower are you even more likely to hit getting onto the trailer? OR Since this is for a trike, Add a board to the deck of the trailer to hold the front tire higher up until the engine is past the trailer edge. If I had the height of the trailer bed, length of the ramp, ground clearance of the trike, wheel base of the trike, and distance from front wheel of trike to the low spot, I could calculate the best size and shape of board to give adequate clearance for loading/unloading. Just puking up ideas here.

Put the motor case into the oven at 250°F (300°F Max) for 20 minutes or so. The aluminum will expand a bit more than the steel race, and if there is any bearing retainer on the bearing the heat will loosen it. This is the only way to get the rear bearing out of small engines made for model aircraft. Once it is warmed up in the oven, all it usually takes is a sharp smack on a block of soft wood to knock the bearing out. It is not till around 400°F that you have to worry about changing the aluminum characteristics.

Does it have to be a real clown or can it be a stature? I am about 2 working days away from getting my bike back together.

The problem with the intersection cameras is that some cities shorten the yellow light to turn it into a cash machine. Those cameras give you the choice of nearly locking up the brakes and getting rear ended or getting a ticket at every intersection. You also will get a lot of tickets in the winter if you are driving at below posted speeds due to road or traffic conditions.

Looks good. But that shop is way to clean, how can you get anything done in there?

Happy Birthday Birthday spankings!!!!! How many is that now?????

Or the fuse holder. I worked on one bike that had an upgraded fuse panel. One of the wires was crimped over the insulation so had no contact between the wire and the terminal.

When you checked for power at the headlight plug did you have the Negative voltmeter lead to the battery Neg or to the ground wire of the plug? Check for power on both sides of the headlight fuse. Do not check on the fuse its self, but do the check on the terminals that are on the wires going to the fuse.

Now try that with my size 14 gunboats....... At least I had my boots on and they were stiff enough to flex the foot peg up. Did you know that the distance from the riders foot rest to the road is less than the length of a size 14 foot. Even with no passenger on board. Or that planting a foot to stop a fall on a patch of gravel can wedge your foot between the side bag guards and the road. Either one of these will make a hole on the top of the toe of your boot....... But the big question (not the big toe) is.........Did you learn anything????

Isn't the purpose of a horn to be loud and obnoxious and generate complaints???

Cool Did you ask if he was a member of this site?

The headlight going out when you hit the starter button is a good thing, it is supposed to do that. As far as not cranking, check to be sure you did not bump off the red Kill switch on the top of the right handlebar. You would not be the first to have done that.

Made some good progress tonight, but it is not rideable yet. Good chance to be rideable by tomorrow night. Ice cream and soda test run? Always got a soda in the fridge. Rare to find a beer in the house. And 2 nearby DQs.

There are several "brains" on the bike. You need to tell us what the problem is so that we can know which "brain" you are talking about. Opps, we were posting at the same time.........

RedRider I ran into more difficulties last night, I will not be joining you for a burger. But I will be working on the bike all day Saturday till it is ridable.

There are 2 different electronic modules on your bike. One is the TCI that GAWildKat mentioned, It controls the spark and ignition system. There is another computer in the dash that monitors for various faults. If you can describe your symptoms we can steer you in the right direction.

I use that excuse to go to the toy,,,,, I mean tool store all the time. Her Ford Exploder needed some work, I told her I only have Chevy tools, I will need to go and buy some Ford tools to be able to fix her car.

Candybutt? really CANDYBUTT??? I'll have you know it is a Marshmallow butt thank you.......

That sounds interesting. I would only have to stop for gas 3 times getting there and 3 more times getting back home. But I just pulled off my fairing last night to replace all of the brake lines and delink and starter cables. I don't know if I can put it back together that fast.

While a load test would be a great test, I figured that anyone that had the equipment to do that test would also have enough electrical knowledge, that they would not really need the procedure in the first place. I tried to write that for the guy that only has a $4 Harbor Freight meter to work with, and has no idea what all those settings on it mean.

:sign yeah that: And then be sure to let us know what you figured out with pics.