Flyinfool

In the truck I will do that, on the bike I do not want to risk pissing off the wrong person that is having a really bad day and have them take it out on me. Even a smart car has tonnage over the bike.

Now there is an incentive to fill in the states traveled map.

IF you have a multi speed motor the wire connections diagram or chart sticker, should be right on the motor. You can see what speed it is wired for and what options are available.

It sure does sound fishy. But you hate to pass up a legit deal for asking price. FWIW goggling the email address does not bring up any hint of a scam being run from that email address. But then it is a free email service so they could easily make a new email for each scam. I don't know if this is one of the scams where they pay by PP and then after they get the bike they claim it was never received, or not as advertised and get a refund from PP and keep the bike too? Maybe if you call PP they can tell you if their PP email is legit?

:sign yeah that: But a closed area could be more fun.:happy-emoticon:

You can not copy a pic from your Yahoo mail. You have to save the pic to your computer and then you can upload the pic from your computer to the website.

Hmmmmm....... The nut holding my handlebars is a 6 footer.......

When it is going to end up being a big light weight box like a side cover would be. I always make my own box. With large items you are not paying for the weight, you are paying for the size of the box. This will help to keep the cost of shipping down. A smaller bax will also need less packing material to fill it up, again reducing cost. Do not make your box out of flimsy cardboard like most Chinese stuff comes in, any shipping service will destroy it. I get my cardboard out of the paper recycling pile at work, You could go to any place that sells and delivers appliances and get one of those old boxes. They are usually made of good sturdy cardboard.

BAD Bubber.........

This test only tests the rectifier portion of the Regulator/Rectifier it does not test the regulator at all. There is no easy test for the regulator, you just have to eliminate everything else and then the regulator must be the problem. If the RR fails the diode test then you know the rectifier is bad but since the rectifier and the regulator are both in the same part, you can not replace one without the other. Try not to confuse the issue by going after everything at once. Solve the charging issue first, and then go after the other issues. All of the other problems may be caused by the charging problem.

Actually if you are looking and always working on an escape plan, you can get out of the way. That escape plan may be watching for holes in cross traffic or a quick lane change or worst case diving off the bike to the side. The plan may change several times during a single red light as conditions evolve. Over the last 40 years and well over 1 million miles of driving I have blown a red light twice to avoid getting rear ended. Once in a car and once on the bike. Both times I was fortunate to have a hole in cross traffic to shoot through safely. One of them, the person that caused it did not make it through clean, fortunately no one was hurt but she did look pretty silly with lipstick all over her face. Both times I had to immediately pull to the side of the road to clean out my shorts and recompose myself before I could continue driving.

Glad your feeling better, but better to go mow the lawn? I let the lawn grow till the dog gets lost.

I tried Amsoil in my bike last oil change. almost immediately every gasket started leaking, I am hoping that switching back to dino oil will stop some of the leaking.

The 1st gen has a "hard" coating on the shield from the factory. Mine was really bad so I sanded it with 400 wet then went thru the wet grades to 2000 wet then polished it using a product made for the plastic windshields of aircraft. looked good as new. BUT Yes there is always a but. Once you remove the scratches you will also have removed the "hard" coating, from that point on the windshield will scratch very easy. Keep some very soft towels and the polishing compound with the bike at all times, you will need to use it often.

I guess it kind of depends on if there is a 30%er in the area........ 60 miles is about the upper limit for a day ride for a marshmallow butt. But then you have such great riding in your area.

I just got a call from them tonight. He made the mistake of calling me while I was bored..... I kept him on the phone for 45 minutes. That was 45 minutes that he was not scaming some poor computer illiterate person.

Nope I'm even in the ladies room but still all alone.

Continuity does not always signify a good connection. It is possible to show zero ohms but the actual good contact area is so small that the connection will not handle higher current. The get a better test of a connection you need the bike running with everything turned on that can be turned on and then measure voltage from the frame to the battery negative. If the voltage is more than zero there is resistance somewhere while under load. I had the chalky blade and it was causing me all kinds of grief. I eliminated that connector and solders the wires together. I saw no purpose in life for that connector to be there.

That sure sounds better than what I saw on the way home from work yesterday. There was a bike on the side of the road with obvious issues. I stopped to see if I could help. He had run out of gas. He just bought the bike a couple of hours earlier, his first bike ever, a Buell. He had shorts, sandals, no shirt, and no helmet and no MC license. His issue that attracted my attention, he was rocking the bike back and forth trying to duck walk it to a safe place but did not know how to find neutral. I did give him a ride to a gas station but in the process he had to listen to me splaining things on him. He mentioned that he will never get a license because he would be required to wear a helmet as a new rider and the hot chicks do not like guys with helmets. I asked how well the hot chicks like guys in a wheel chair drooling out of the corner of their mouth after they smacked their melon while trying to be cool and learning how to ride at the same time. Or how well the hot chicks like major scarring from road rash. I am not sure if I got thru or not, but by the time we got back to the bike with the gas he was quiet and appeared to be deep in thought.

If the battery is showing 12.7 then it is 100% charged, even if the battery is junk. But when the load is applied is when the voltage will drop way down, that is the part that indicates it is bad. A bad RR can take out a battery. It looks like the stator is ok. There are 2 wires connected to the negative battery terminal, the big one that goes to the engine ground near the water pump that you already found. Then there is a smaller black wire that goes to a one pin connector right in front of the battery. That is the wire that is the ground for everything on the bike except the starter motor. Clean that one pin connector and then try to follow that smaller black wire to the frame ground. I do not know where that frame ground is located, I never had a reason to find it yet. But it does look like I guessed right that you have multiple gremlins, So far a bad battery and a bad RR. I also suspect that frame ground. Then there could still be your original issue, or it all could have been these gremlins playing havoc due to low voltage in all circuits. In your original post you mentioned that it would stumble as the load and rpm went up. that lead everyone to checking the spark system,, low voltage will cause a weak spark that may not make the jump as the load and rpm go up. Low voltage could also cause the fuel pump to have low pressure and not keep up. Hopefully this will kill all of the gremlins in one fell swoop.

You really need to go though the whole test procedure. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297 We can spend days taking pot shots at the problem and still miss something. I still am GUESSING that it is the RR but all of the tests have to be done to rule out everything else so that the RR is the only thing left.

I don't know about Ohio, but the deer around here do not know what a rattle snake is. So to a deer it is just noise, but your bike already makes noise. A startled deer can run in any direction. I have seen deer that likely would have stood on the side of the road and watched you go by, jump out on the road at the sound of a horn, because it scared them, their first reaction is often, not always, to run in whatever direction the are pointed. Deer are so unpredictable that the best defense is to see and avoid. This means good lights at night that really light up the ditches so you can see them coming.

Dang, I missed that. :bang head: :bang head: :bang head: :bang head: :bang head: :bang head: :bang head: Someone run over here and smack me..............But not to hard ALL of the testing we are doing should be with the black lead in the common jack.

That is what I was thinking.:think::think: Take your meter and check you cars battery with the engine on and off, if your car is also 16V you have a bad meter.

There is no easy test for the regulator portion of the RR. The tests listed for while the RR is disconnected are to test the diodes in the rectifier portion of the RR. So since there is no test we can do for the regulator, you have to eliminate everything else that can cause a problem, and can be checked/tested, and then if everything else is good it must be the regulator that is the problem.